BlackLS1Camaro

I'm in Grayson County about 30 mins from Etown, a little town called Leitchfield. Cool, I'd definitely be interested in seeing some pics when you do!

BlackLS1Camaro

So it's about time for LS Fest! Getting everything wrapped up.

Got the exhaust on, I have to say I am not a fan of the loudmouth II's but they will do for now.


I was driving through town and came to a red-light and I noticed that the car tried to die on me. I went back and researched and found that the PCM needs a VSS input signal to not throw the IAC out and confuse the PCM where to idle at. I bought this Dakota Digital 8K Pulse Generator from Summit. Since I am running the TH350 I need some sort of way to tell the computer that the engine is moving. Now for those of you who buy this, especially in first gen camaro swaps I want to share this with you. The directions say to put this into the tranny speedo spot. Well........ the speedometer cable wont fit it because of the Trans tunnel. Where the two speedometer cables meet on the subframe is where I mounted mine at.


I had to email to find out anything about this, there is very little information on this from what I could find. But here's what I learned. Since my PCM was a T56 six speed on my VSS Input reads factory 43,000 pulses per mile. With this 8000 pulse per mile generator, the PCM will know the engine moves but will think its going around 10MPH when you are actually going around 45-50MPH. If you take your MPH and divide by 5.5 you should get what the PCM is reading. So at 10 MPH, the PCM should read about 2 MPH, at 20MPH, PCM reads 3.6 MPH. The programming is setup to exit idle strategy at 1.5 MPH, and go back into idle strategy at 1.0 MPH. For my application this is fine because I left the factory speedometer. I all I wanted was the engine not to stall lol

For those of you guys wanting to run digital speedometers you'll have to have your PCM reprogrammed.

Ended up flat blacking the radiator plate and buying the factory engine bay sticker. $20 from GM. Call me crazy

BlackLS1Camaro

Had a good time at LSfest in Bowling Green, met a lot of cool people and seen some cool rides. After driving the Camaro to Bowling Green both days I told myself that the 350 Turbo had to go... I had been searching around on craigslist and stumbled across a guy parting out a 02' Z28. The engine had already been sold but the T56 hadn't.

The way I seen it was, if I was going to have a modern motor might as well have a modern drive-train. I'm going to try and finish this thread out by documenting my swap for the people in the future to use to help them out with their swap.

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

Nice build. I am also doing a 68 Camaro with LS1 and T56, but I am also going with an aftermarket subframe with big C5 Corvette brakes. My 17" Foose wheels will not fit so I considered Corvette wheels. Can you give me some more details on how you made these wheels fit?

BlackLS1Camaro

Nice, well at first I had the 2" drop spindles on and had to get the shorter steering arms to keep out of the C5 wheel. I made some hollow 3/8" steel shims and bolted them behind the steering arms so I wouldn't have to heat and bend. Really the geometry wasn't that great and I took all of that out, put the stock spindles on and ran the hubcentric wheel spacers on the front and back. Much better geometry. My wheels are 17s in the front and 18s in the rear. I recommend running another style wheel, I know the vette wheels look cool but a wheel that is made for that application would be better. Me personally, I plan on saving up for a set of Forgeline wheels and putting the vette wheels on my S10.

They make a forged spindle for a first gen camaro that has the C5 hub ends on it, I'm not sure about the foose wheels but a couple the guys I met at BG said they either ran a different wheel or rolled the fenders out to accommodate for the wheel. I'd rather not cut into my car and go through all that so I am going to see what Forgeline has to offer.

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for answering back Jake. My problem is that the 17" Foose wheels will not fit over the C5 12.8" brakes I am using. I need to either go with an 18" wheel or a 17" wheel that will clear (like the Corvette 17" wheel). Another problem I have is backspacing. Art Morrison recommends a 5 1/4" backspace with an 8" wide wheel and all the wheel I see either have 4 1/2" backspace for old school musclecars or 6" plus for modern cars.

How thick are you hubcentric wheel spacers? The thickest I've seen are 1 1/4".

BlackLS1Camaro

I believe my front spacers at 1 1/4", and my backs are 2 1/2". I got them from some after market company advertising them on ebay. I just typed in the 4 3/4 bolt pattern and how wide and found them. I have some room to mill the thickness of the spacer down for the back two but not for the front.

I know what you mean, it's hard to find out what works and what dont without buying and trying haha

BlackLS1Camaro

Alright everyone, haven't posted in a while so I thought I'd update some.

My parts car in the field was luckily a 4 speed, and I was able to retrieve these clutch pedals. I ended up having to notch some out of the pedal/steering/brake support bracket for my pedal swivel bolt. I am using the stock T56 clutch master and reservoir.



Prototype 1, after some sand blasting welding and grinding.





and finally some wet black powder coating and you have yourself a homemade 68 hydraulic clutch setup.





Next, I decided to pull the engine BACK out to upgrade a few things. I bought a Holley 302-2 oil pan, LS6 Intake, and threw a new water pump on while I had it out.







See that? That my friends is what I call a pain in the ***. LS1 crank oil plug, like to never got it out.






I decided not to trim my intake so I bought the LS6 coolant steam vents. I got lucky and was able to use the back plugs off my 6.0 truck motor.





I am working on the transmission cross member now, so hopefully it should be all in soon!

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

What exactly is going on here? I'm not familiar with that plug. What's its purpose? Was is coming undone on its own?

Thanks.

Tipsy

BlackLS1Camaro

It's an oil passage plug, its what keep oil from coming out of the back of the crank. The crank shaft is not forged solid they just stick a plug in it from factory. I unseated the plug trying to get the old pilot pushing out because it sets right behind it. I didn't know these motors had them and noticed it was leaking oil every now and then. I assumed it was the rear main but after inspection I found that. I tried using a slide hammer and removing it from behind but it was just easier to push it on through and let it drop into the oil pan.

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

I see you modified your clutch pedal out of the car like I did. Much easier that way.

BlackLS1Camaro

Yeah it was easier to set it all up in the vice that way I could get the accurate travel and wouldn't put the master cylinder in a bind. It could be done in the car but it would be aggravating. Lol

BlackLS1Camaro

After deciding to go with the 6 speed I decided I might as well upgrade the rear end and suspension. So lets start with the rear end. My old single trac high gear 10 bolt had to go. So I got wind of an old 65' SS Chevelle setting in a field and bought this 12 bolt rear end out of it for $300, SCORE!

After running the numbers it was a single trac 307 gear ratio. I bought an Eaton Posi, Richmond 3.73 gear ring and pinion, and had Moser build me some custom axles. I used the Moser axle ends that utilize the ford big bearing that press on the axles to where I can eliminate the C-Clips without having leaks. I made this jig to weld the ends on to keep it true to where my axles wouldn't bind up. Here's some pics.















Next the Monoleafs were removed. I hand built this suspension myself with nothing more than a cheap angle finger, square, welder, and plasma cutter.





I used the 65 Chevelle coil spring mounts on the rear end for upper arm mounts that way I wouldn't have to run a pan hard bar.

Before everything was done.


Here's where she is setting now. The vette wheels are sold and RTS are on order, backs came in.




Ill try to get you guys some more pictures of my subframe connectors, T56 cross member and some more if you're interested.

BobH

iTrader: (4)

Great job !!!! Appreciate the posts used a few tricks
Thanks
BobH

BlackLS1Camaro

Thanks man, always nice to know my thread can help a few more out. I have more pictures of the suspension but i'm waiting on some more small things before I update the thread

Frawgdawg26

I finally got a few moments to read your thread from begging to end and found it both informative and entertaining. You are a true craftsman! I may have to hire you to fab my radiator support brackets and pcm housing! Did you make a manifest or master parts list For all the parts that you didn't fab?- lol. In particular the radiator hoses.

By the way this is TexStar79 from IG.

BlackLS1Camaro

Let me know buddy! I have a parts list somewhere I will have to dig it up, this was more of a do-it-yourself build originally so I tried making my parts or rework other factory parts to make it all come together. I spent alot of time researching and testing different ideas. Very little was bought. It wasnt until I started in on the 6 speed that I started to get name brand stuff and sort of re do my build. Thanks for the view by the way!

Frawgdawg26

What radiator hoses did you use? I assume you fab'd up a bracket for your clutch cylinder? Any fuel system issues with that configuration you have during launch, cornering, or braking? I currently have an Aeromotive A1000 and would save money if i could keep that!

BlackLS1Camaro

Sorry for the late reply I just noticed you posted. I used the factory fbody radiator and fans. I made the bracket for the clutch yes. I am running a Walbro 255 inline with a 99 vette regulator. I autocrossed it all weekend and didnt have a bit of trouble. I've driven it everywhere without any issues.

shanex25

iTrader: (3)

Have kept up with your build since you've started. Looks like you participated in ls fest with it this year. How did it do? Wrapping up my swap now and plan to participate this year. I remember seeing your car out there last year.