Power Distribution
Power Distribution Gents,
Thinking of getting this to wire the fans and fuel pump. I dont see why it couldnt work,
but checking to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thinking of using 20 amp fuses
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-IN-3-OUT-B...f7230a&vxp=mtr
Thinking of getting this to wire the fans and fuel pump. I dont see why it couldnt work,
but checking to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thinking of using 20 amp fuses
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-IN-3-OUT-B...f7230a&vxp=mtr
Lol....yea, I looked around, ending up buying the same type of block except it uses the newer MAXI fuses.
74,
I was thinking 30 amps for all three? Is that too much for the fuel pump and each fan?
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 205
Likes: 2
From: Mobile, Alabama
Some of the fuel pumps take 30amps -at least for startup. The fans - it depends on their size. Check the fuse size out of the car they came in, if aftermarket,check their instructions. 30each might be stretching it, it depends on the size of the metal in the fuse block. Might want to email the vendor.
I based my Fuse rating from the OEM Fuse box. I would suggest you keep looking for another Distribution Block and fuse box.. those Glass fuse are just.. .like last decade..
I used the Painless Fuse Block setup. easy to use and expand.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70107/
I used the Painless Fuse Block setup. easy to use and expand.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70107/
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I based my Fuse rating from the OEM Fuse box. I would suggest you keep looking for another Distribution Block and fuse box.. those Glass fuse are just.. .like last decade..
I used the Painless Fuse Block setup. easy to use and expand.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70107/
I used the Painless Fuse Block setup. easy to use and expand.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70107/
Do you know OEM for the fans?
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Verdad Gallardo In a oem camaro setup, it has two fuses, a 10amp and a 40amp.
The 10amp powers term #85 on all three relays. The 40amp powers term 30 on relay #1 and #2 only. This would be for running the fan, the 10amp would be for the power for the relay switching.
I usually use a 30amp for the second one and have on blown it.
But, a lot of other have different setup, but fan power should also be based on the fan draw, how much amps it will draw, so the above are for stock OEM fans. Check with the many factor of the fans you are using.
BC
The 10amp powers term #85 on all three relays. The 40amp powers term 30 on relay #1 and #2 only. This would be for running the fan, the 10amp would be for the power for the relay switching.
I usually use a 30amp for the second one and have on blown it.
But, a lot of other have different setup, but fan power should also be based on the fan draw, how much amps it will draw, so the above are for stock OEM fans. Check with the many factor of the fans you are using.
BC
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman+Product...85668/10002/-1
So much better. Avoid AGU glass fuses at all cost. Not only will you have a hard time finding anything under 40A (they are designed for audio amplifiers), the ends are glued on, then heated up to melt some solder to hold the filament in place. I replace 2-3 a month that have just fallen apart. Sometimes the loose connection happens on the inlet side, amperage goes up pre-fuse and they melt the fuse holder too.
Here is a photo I took at work last Monday. I keep them as examples why AGU fuses suck. Lol
So much better. Avoid AGU glass fuses at all cost. Not only will you have a hard time finding anything under 40A (they are designed for audio amplifiers), the ends are glued on, then heated up to melt some solder to hold the filament in place. I replace 2-3 a month that have just fallen apart. Sometimes the loose connection happens on the inlet side, amperage goes up pre-fuse and they melt the fuse holder too.
Here is a photo I took at work last Monday. I keep them as examples why AGU fuses suck. Lol
Last edited by jmespe1; Oct 22, 2012 at 09:17 AM.
Also you must understand the fuse is to protect the wiring not the part.This is another thing I see a ton of. You want the fuse to blow before the wiring burst into flames. Most wiring will have an amperage rating available. Use the lowest fuse you possibly can. There are also a ton of charts that lay out wire size and length to what amperage it should handle.
If the wiring rating is unknown..I picked up an amperage meter from harbor freight ($8) that plugs into the fuse place. I can see the real amperage a part is pulling at full load, I typically round up to the closest fuse available.
If the wiring rating is unknown..I picked up an amperage meter from harbor freight ($8) that plugs into the fuse place. I can see the real amperage a part is pulling at full load, I typically round up to the closest fuse available.
Interesting...I thought the fuse was to protect the component...
Anyways I'm using 10 Ga wire with (GXL and SXL), I contacted Walbro, nothing over 20 amps is what they state....
I might go 20amps for all three.
BCzee, I ended up getting a MAXI fuse block. Basically the same size, just normal fuses.
Anyways I'm using 10 Ga wire with (GXL and SXL), I contacted Walbro, nothing over 20 amps is what they state....
I might go 20amps for all three.
BCzee, I ended up getting a MAXI fuse block. Basically the same size, just normal fuses.
Yeah fuses are commonly misunderstood. If you figure the largest reason for a fuse to blow is a fault with the part then the part is obviously past saving. I have a whole slew of photos of cars with burnt lines in the carpet front to back from high schoolers thinking they can use cheap wire and the largest fuse possible for their amp install.
10g will be more than enough. Glad you opted to not get AGU. It wouldn't be fun to have your fuel pump or fans drop out on ya over a crappy fuse design. Lol
10g will be more than enough. Glad you opted to not get AGU. It wouldn't be fun to have your fuel pump or fans drop out on ya over a crappy fuse design. Lol
