1970 GTO LSX Conversion ?'s
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
I would go with truck or corvette accessories. I did the later and didn't have to notch or grind anything.
When I originally put my engine in, all I did was bolt it to the stock TH350, which was in turn bolted in the stock position on the trans mount, line the engine up on the frame and tack weld in the lower mounts. You have an A-body, and things may be slightly different, but the general process may work for you. Doing the mockup costs nothing but time, and you'll be able to more accurately make your measurements.
When I originally put my engine in, all I did was bolt it to the stock TH350, which was in turn bolted in the stock position on the trans mount, line the engine up on the frame and tack weld in the lower mounts. You have an A-body, and things may be slightly different, but the general process may work for you. Doing the mockup costs nothing but time, and you'll be able to more accurately make your measurements.
if you already have a f body oil pan give a shot if its not to your liking then sell the f body pan and buy a cts v pan, if you dont have a pan as of yet then just go ahead and play it safe and get the cts pan from start thats what i would do. i went with my parts because i had them on hand already, yes its a tight fit but once its in there its not going anywhere. for what its worth i have had 2 driveshafts cut over the last couple years and my buddy just had one done the other week only runs between 50-100 bucks in metro detroit, some places charge a lot more but you just gotta shop around. so with that siad if you have a f body pan just grab some 40 dollar ebay 1'' setbacks and if you gotta pay 50 bucks to get the driveshaft shortened that will be the second cheapest part of your build. 
TECH Fanatic
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 8
From: Atlanta, Ga
The TH400 shaft is going to be too short and the slip yoke is wrong i you position the engine in the "stock" orientation. Shortening the drive shaft is the least of your worries until you get the engine to sit where you want it. The 4L60 does not require any mods to the tunnel, just some slight mods to the cross member. I will still advocate a swap pan to give you more flexibility. Save up the bucks and make the swap easier in the long run, you will not regret it.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
Yeah they are procar. I like them. But Im a big guy so they are a tad narrow for me. I been trying to get my friend that owns a TA to buy them off me so I can just buy new upholstery for my factory seats.
Here's a link with all the major OEM pan measurements in one spot: http://www.fbparts.com/ls_oil_pans-filters.htm
and some food for thought (direct drop in for a second gen F-body, no mods except to add an oil drain at the yellow arrow)
and some food for thought (direct drop in for a second gen F-body, no mods except to add an oil drain at the yellow arrow)
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
Here's a link with all the major OEM pan measurements in one spot: http://www.fbparts.com/ls_oil_pans-filters.htm
and some food for thought (direct drop in for a second gen F-body, no mods except to add an oil drain at the yellow arrow)
and some food for thought (direct drop in for a second gen F-body, no mods except to add an oil drain at the yellow arrow)
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
Ok after doing some thinking I think I figured out what to do with mounting plates. Gonna get some 1 inch setbacks off ebay. After comparing standard plate and 1 inch setbacks, it looks like if I get the 1 inch setbacks I can always redrill if I want to locate like standard plate location.
Does that make sense?
For time being gonna just get some Anchor 2142 motor mounts from oreillys.
For the frame mounts might give the junkyards a shot first if nothing shows up then just order from OPGI or somewhere.
Does that make sense?
For time being gonna just get some Anchor 2142 motor mounts from oreillys.
For the frame mounts might give the junkyards a shot first if nothing shows up then just order from OPGI or somewhere.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
Yeah that should work! Glad I got this figured out! I was being pretty **** about it because Im trying to keep the factory AC evap box also. Since vintage air doesnt make a kit for my GTO. Im gonna find an AC compressor thats serpentine driven and have custom made AC hoses.
Next issue is going to be wiring harness and pcm!
Next issue is going to be wiring harness and pcm!
I'm no expert on a/c but I think there are both fixed and variable displacement compressors, not sure which is right for the old stuff (or if there is even a difference).
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
Yes, it's the two-piece version. Imagine being able to drop part of the pan to do a visual check on engine internals without having to lift or take out the engine. It's a great feature. I put the engine in before finding out the pan wasn't supposed to fit.