ls3 motor mounts not aligning (pics) 69 camaro
#1
ls3 motor mounts not aligning (pics) 69 camaro
Hello all, I am stuck in this conversion and thought I would ask for some help. My Ls3 motor mounts are not aligning up with the perches, I have done everything possible as far as shifting the trans and motor around.
The reason for this alignment issue is: I had to add a 1/2 Plate under the perches to help with the rack steering and raise the oil pan a little higher. Things look better after I added the plate under the perches but now the alignment issue.
I need help figuring out how to get it aligned, either adjustable mounts or a rubber/poly with a different bracket. not sure and any advice is appreciated. 1969 Camaro, ls3, t56 transmission.
The reason for this alignment issue is: I had to add a 1/2 Plate under the perches to help with the rack steering and raise the oil pan a little higher. Things look better after I added the plate under the perches but now the alignment issue.
I need help figuring out how to get it aligned, either adjustable mounts or a rubber/poly with a different bracket. not sure and any advice is appreciated. 1969 Camaro, ls3, t56 transmission.
#2
Launching!
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Obviously, you changed the geometry and spacing with the plate. Not knowing or able to see everything, i would notch the sub and remove the plates. It's a little more work, but it doesn't take that long. Just my .02.
#3
Thanks, the plate seems to be working for my rack and pinion steering and oil pan. I was hoping someone has used or seen another type of motor mount that either adjusted or a mount that made for another car that might fit. I just need the metal between the mount and the perch to some how magically adjust 3/4 of a inch,.
#5
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When you add 1/2" of plate you lift the engine by 0.707" or roughly 11/16”. You would have to correspondingly shift the mounting holes down to get them lined up. I have a set of 15/16" lift adapters I made that would probably line up fine because they have the holes shifted appropriately. They are taller than what you have now and also have a 1/4" forward shift. My headers did not work with them because they were designed for 1/2" setback. Maybe they would work for you?
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap119.JPG
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap164.JPG
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap176.JPG
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap180.JPG
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap119.JPG
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap164.JPG
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap176.JPG
http://cjnn.xtremefabricator.com/ima...ly6swap180.JPG
#6
Thanks Bandit, but if I lift any higher I will have to modify the tunnel. I will mark and remove my frame mount perches and drill and weld them out. I was hoping there was just a more simple fix. Thanks all
#7
TECH Junkie
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Any chance 1st gens camwith short/wide and tall/narrow motor and frame mounts? Cant tell from the pic which motor mounts you're using, but might be as simple as a swap for the lower profile mounts.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...s-gm-body.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...s-gm-body.html
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#8
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Pics are pretty close up, but looks like you have the Energy mounts. Those fixed my alignment issue on my 67 Camaro. I've read some people flip the mounts (and swap the adapter plates), but I think that might lower the engine. Any chance that would help?
#9
there are differances in short wide or narow tall mounts. also between frame stands seems you have to have the right combo of parts. my 69 was a bbc i and i found out the frame stands are different heights to offset the bbc. had to get some sbc frame stands.
#10
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What kind of adapters are you using? Are they setback at all or is the lower mounting hole shared between the Energy suspension mount and the engine boss? If you have setback, you may have room to drill another set of holes lower on the plates or replace the adapters with the 1/2" plate you have, drilled appropriately.
Another option would be to put your plate below the frame stand instead and drill two patterns, one that attaches the plate to the frame in the factory location with through or countersunk holes and another pattern shifted by 1/2" up that is threaded to accept the bolts attaching the frame stand. Start by attaching the plate to the frame (3 holes and fasteners), then position the engine on top and mark the location for the 3 threaded holes. The plate would go here:
Or you could use a specialty fastener from this assortment
Another option would be to put your plate below the frame stand instead and drill two patterns, one that attaches the plate to the frame in the factory location with through or countersunk holes and another pattern shifted by 1/2" up that is threaded to accept the bolts attaching the frame stand. Start by attaching the plate to the frame (3 holes and fasteners), then position the engine on top and mark the location for the 3 threaded holes. The plate would go here:
Or you could use a specialty fastener from this assortment
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 12-03-2012 at 10:41 AM.
#11
TECH Senior Member
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Yeah.. this is a common problem that many have encountered. Many ways to resolve it. Some are just a bit off, other have found it off by a lot.
Some have been able to flip the plate/mount upside down / sides to get the bolt aligned.
If you don't need to lift the engine (pan to crossmember clearance wise), I would suggest you relocate the Frame stands.. bolt the plates, mounts and stands together and then drop in the engine, mark the frame stands bolt holes. Remove the engine and mounts, drill new holes for the frame stands and then re-install everything.
You can either drill new holes if required or elongate the holes as needed. (which is what I did, I only had to oblong the holes about 3/8" outward for my Nova Setup).
If you need to lift the engine some, you can also try what i did for my Chevelle setup. I used the standard Short and Wide Frame stands, which I narrowed them to accept Tall and narrow engine mounts. I relocate the frame stands as needed. This will raise the engine (mount wise) 7/16".
The difference of the T/N and S/W mounts is about 1/4", I narrow the frame stand by 3/4"- 1" and used spacer/washers to jack the engine around to center it where I wanted it.. it is not much, but it helped.
Some have been able to flip the plate/mount upside down / sides to get the bolt aligned.
If you don't need to lift the engine (pan to crossmember clearance wise), I would suggest you relocate the Frame stands.. bolt the plates, mounts and stands together and then drop in the engine, mark the frame stands bolt holes. Remove the engine and mounts, drill new holes for the frame stands and then re-install everything.
You can either drill new holes if required or elongate the holes as needed. (which is what I did, I only had to oblong the holes about 3/8" outward for my Nova Setup).
If you need to lift the engine some, you can also try what i did for my Chevelle setup. I used the standard Short and Wide Frame stands, which I narrowed them to accept Tall and narrow engine mounts. I relocate the frame stands as needed. This will raise the engine (mount wise) 7/16".
The difference of the T/N and S/W mounts is about 1/4", I narrow the frame stand by 3/4"- 1" and used spacer/washers to jack the engine around to center it where I wanted it.. it is not much, but it helped.
#12
[IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]Thanks all for the input, Yes they are energy mounts and brackets. I have sbc frame mounts and I assume that bbc frame mounts are not going to change the difference in my predicament, since I am 3/4 of a inch off. Bandit and bczee, thanks for your suggestion, I will do it that way.
What about drilling a new hole in the frame mount and welding the steel tube underneath in its new position.
What about drilling a new hole in the frame mount and welding the steel tube underneath in its new position.
#14
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Agree! That should be fine. I would use a new tube and leave the old one in. You can slip the new tube in from underneath and just tack it in a couple places. It is there to prevent the mounting bolt from collapsing the mount when you tighten it down.
Did you check your header clearances also?
Did you check your header clearances also?
#16
I am in the exact same position. What oil pan and rack & pinion kit do you have?
I have a H3 oil pan and Unisteer R&P, I think I am going to have to add about 1/2" to raise everything up.
Also where is your alternator?
I have a H3 oil pan and Unisteer R&P, I think I am going to have to add about 1/2" to raise everything up.
Also where is your alternator?
#17
I am using the gm LS Muscle Car Oil Pan , and also the unisteer. I have not made it to the alternator yet. But so far with the 1/2 plate it seems to to working fine for me.
#18
I had to raise my engine about 5/8" and made new adapter plates that are thicker and the mount holes moved down to allow for the thicker plates....worked like a charm.....check out the pic's.....
Hope this helps......
Ken
Hope this helps......
Ken