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Steam lines can be as simple or complicated as you want them to be.
Simple: route to the upper radiator hose. You can buy an adapter or make your own like I did.
Less simple: Dirty Dingo spacers with integral steam line (requires "truck" accessories and "car" water pump).
Complicated: drill and tap the water pump.
I needed to mate two different size hoses so the choice was clear. Jags That Run sells a similar adapter.
OK.... I'm looking at the 4 corner steam lines and to the WP.
1/4" NPT looks awful big as does 1/8" NPT....I keep looking at nitrous lines but the sizes throw me. I understand -4, -6, and all....looking for something smaller I guess ?
I like the stock "spider" setup. Cheap, simple, fits under the manifold.
The trucks use all four ports, the LS6 cars and 2000 -ish up LS1 cars only use the front two. I've been told the preferred setup for performance is all four.
I like the stock "spider" setup. Cheap, simple, fits under the manifold.
The trucks use all four ports, the LS6 cars and 2000 -ish up LS1 cars only use the front two. I've been told the preferred setup for performance is all four.
I drilled and tapped the top of my truck style water pump and ran the hose from the steam line to it. Anything wrong with doing it that way?
YES! You're defeating the purpose of the engineering of reintroducing it right back into where it came from instead of allowing it to rise to the top and exit via the coolant over flow.
I run a pressurized reservoir as the high point of the system. I just "teed" the steam vent lines into the small hose that connects the reservoir to the top of the radiator. Since this line is usually exposed to the air in the top of the reservoir, this has the added benefit of allowing the steam lines to act as air vents when filling the system with coolant. To fill - pour coolant into the reservoir until it comes up to the "low" fill line. All the air bleeds out through the steam lines as coolant rises through block/heads/radiator.
Last edited by Michael Yount; Jan 12, 2022 at 07:10 AM.
I've done the steam line three different ways. All worked well.
1. On my 98 Wrangler LS6 swap I tapped the water pump for the steam line. Has worked fine for over 12 years. Still working. Would I do that again? No. Biggest reason is that if the water pump died in the middle of nowhere I would have to drill and tap the new water pump.
2. Splice in the upper radiator hose. Jags that Run has hose splices that have a NPT port built in.
3. Best IMO is a NPT port plumbed into the upper part of the radiator.
Just my .02.
I did the splice in the upper hose on my setup, following other cars I've owned with a steam relief I connect the line higher than the engine on the bottom of the upper hose so if the system is bleading off air it cant reverse through the steam line, just sucks coolant. Dont know if it does anything,, but It hides the steam line..
On the other hand I bought a vacuum filler for cooling systems and its the only way i'll ever do it again.. Just too dang easy..
I've done the steam line three different ways. All worked well.
1. On my 98 Wrangler LS6 swap I tapped the water pump for the steam line. Has worked fine for over 12 years. Still working. Would I do that again? No. Biggest reason is that if the water pump died in the middle of nowhere I would have to drill and tap the new water pump.
2. Splice in the upper radiator hose. Jags that Run has hose splices that have a NPT port built in.
3. Best IMO is a NPT port plumbed into the upper part of the radiator.
Just my .02.
Just another tip for the steam line.
On my last few LS swaps I have used L92"s dressed as LS3's. I like to use the steam cross tube over that has the outlet tube on the right side of the engine. I don't recall if its Camaro, Corvette or truck. Two front ports only. I've never had a problem with over heating.
Then I cut the outlet tube off and drill and tap the hole for 1/8" NPT. Then using a -3 An fitting I use -3 stainless brake line from the engine to the radiator. I get the -3 brake line from the the local stock car parts dealer. They have many different lengths.
I will get pics tonight.
It's more about hot spots and the cooling of cylinders 7/8. There has been some thoughts that this may be the cause of the exhaust manifold broken bolts. I think this chalks up to low hanging fruit and many do not worry about it. I do.
My 6.0 for my truck was built with mainly OEM parts, plus ARP hardware in some spots, oil tube pickup bracket, dual o-ring barbell and 4 corner steam setup plumbed to the upper radiator. All mods that were not really necessary, but provide dependability and reliability in the future.
In my TT build it is a must. It's not about it hasn't happened, it's about when is it going to happen. Better safe than sorry, especially for the minimal cost. .02
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DIY steamline help.... 
