DIY Harness,need wiring instructions.
#61
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Last edited by BP Automotive; 01-28-2013 at 05:04 PM.
#63
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Last edited by BP Automotive; 01-28-2013 at 05:05 PM.
#65
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Last edited by BP Automotive; 01-28-2013 at 05:05 PM.
#66
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Per the data sheet, that Delphi 12186167 shrink tube starts at a .300 ID and can shrink down to .065 ID. 18 gauge TXL has .078 OD w/ insulation. You should easily be able to fit at least 5 insulated strands in there - as many as 8 if you pack them carefully. 2.5" length should be plenty too. I think it would be a good general purpose size, certainly good for doing the coil wiring junctions. I'm going to give it a try.
#67
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Some good ole fashion back n forth in here..![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I've been wiring my own stuff up for years..butt connectors well crimped, some solder depending on the connection, shrink tube on everything and sealed up with shrink wrap. Been working without issues..![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Here's a little do-it-yourself help for anyone wanting to get their hands dirty..![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...o-lt1-car.html
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I've been wiring my own stuff up for years..butt connectors well crimped, some solder depending on the connection, shrink tube on everything and sealed up with shrink wrap. Been working without issues..
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Here's a little do-it-yourself help for anyone wanting to get their hands dirty..
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...o-lt1-car.html
#68
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Just off the phone with caspers. A lot of people do not know it but they do manufacture GM harnesses, so they have the presses to produce harnesses. Just like I have been saying, the repair tools are meant for repair. Not for PRODUCING harnesses. There are way less than 10 stand alone harness companies that use production tooling. The rest use the repair tooling.
I want to reiterate that I do agree that GM harness are solderless, but that is because PRODUCTION TOOLING is used.
I offer this challenge to anyone who truly wants to see the difference in quality. I will crimp three different connections, label them and send them to you at no charge to you! Just simply examine them, then use VERY sharp cutters and cut the crimp and look at the difference. All I ask is that you report back with what you find. Yes, I am that confident you will see the difference.
Hell If you dont have sharp cutters Ill cut three of them for a total of 6 connections 3 cut and 3 uncut and send them to you.
I want to reiterate that I do agree that GM harness are solderless, but that is because PRODUCTION TOOLING is used.
I offer this challenge to anyone who truly wants to see the difference in quality. I will crimp three different connections, label them and send them to you at no charge to you! Just simply examine them, then use VERY sharp cutters and cut the crimp and look at the difference. All I ask is that you report back with what you find. Yes, I am that confident you will see the difference.
Hell If you dont have sharp cutters Ill cut three of them for a total of 6 connections 3 cut and 3 uncut and send them to you.
#69
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ok, I am in the Middle of redoing my harness(1973 240Z with 5.3L n TH350, t56 later),
I would like to see a pic of both mentioned Harnesses(full Layout please) I just solder n shrink my current sensors & plugs in? for $85 or $150, u cant beat that, gotta find some Xmas $$$ then...
I would like to see a pic of both mentioned Harnesses(full Layout please) I just solder n shrink my current sensors & plugs in? for $85 or $150, u cant beat that, gotta find some Xmas $$$ then...
#70
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I assume when you mean production crimpers you mean the ratcheting type with dies?
Here is a butt connector holding a few anchors.
![](http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/93367274.jpg)
Little read on crimper
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...tml#post286062
Here is a butt connector holding a few anchors.
![](http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/93367274.jpg)
Little read on crimper
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...tml#post286062
Last edited by BOXCHEV; 12-31-2012 at 05:54 PM.
#71
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Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic241851_3.gif)
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Last edited by BP Automotive; 01-28-2013 at 05:05 PM.
#72
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The red/blue handle pair Ive seen those before around $120 for just the bare crimp tool. And dies are around $250. Price for dies seem a little high for what they are in my opinion.
#73
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Anyone here ever delete the coil pack connector and just 'hardwire' them into the harness??
I was looking at my harness layout on the motor and wanted to try and make it a little cleaner.
For example all the pink wires, well all the wires actually to each coil pack run into a splice. And then into one wire for the connector pin.
Was trying to figure out if I should splice them like this...
Not trying to look pretty, just example. Of course I would solder all splices
![](http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/RELL88SS/Wiring%20Harness/DSC_0215.jpg)
Or maybe like this, all the wires meet in the middle there with a little solder. Doubt I could ever get it like the factory splice where there is no solder at all I believe. So 4 lines to each coil, then stepped down into one wire that leads to the PCM.
This slice has some adhesive heat shrink tape around it, then some 1/4in clear adhesive lined dual wall heat shrink over it, tried to make it as sealed as possible from water, then some cheap thin black heat shrink I have over all that. Went a little OD I guess.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
I was looking at my harness layout on the motor and wanted to try and make it a little cleaner.
For example all the pink wires, well all the wires actually to each coil pack run into a splice. And then into one wire for the connector pin.
Was trying to figure out if I should splice them like this...
Not trying to look pretty, just example. Of course I would solder all splices
![](http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/RELL88SS/Wiring%20Harness/DSC_0215.jpg)
Or maybe like this, all the wires meet in the middle there with a little solder. Doubt I could ever get it like the factory splice where there is no solder at all I believe. So 4 lines to each coil, then stepped down into one wire that leads to the PCM.
This slice has some adhesive heat shrink tape around it, then some 1/4in clear adhesive lined dual wall heat shrink over it, tried to make it as sealed as possible from water, then some cheap thin black heat shrink I have over all that. Went a little OD I guess.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![](http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/RELL88SS/Wiring%20Harness/DSC_0217.jpg)
#75
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Yes leaving it hard wired. No connecter to disconnect the two sides, they would be wired in like the injector connectors. Goal is to just simply make layout of the harness look a little cleaner, hopefully easier to hide and tuck away.
#76
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I don't see anything wrong with hardwiring and eliminating those connectors. I plan to do the same. I noticed the factory changes wire colors on either side of them, so keep that in mind. I plan to use the wire colors that come from the ECM.
On a related note, I see the E38 ECM uses Molex connectors with MX64 pins (per eficonnection . com). Can those terminals be crimped using the same crimpers as the Metri-pack 150 / 280s? It looks like they have a wire crimp and an insulation crimp. I would like to do new wire and terminals from my ECM to the coil. The coil connectors appear to have 150.2 terminals.
On a related note, I see the E38 ECM uses Molex connectors with MX64 pins (per eficonnection . com). Can those terminals be crimped using the same crimpers as the Metri-pack 150 / 280s? It looks like they have a wire crimp and an insulation crimp. I would like to do new wire and terminals from my ECM to the coil. The coil connectors appear to have 150.2 terminals.
#78
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What year harness do you have? I haven't noticed any color changes on any harness yet.
#79
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If you look at the bottom right corner of this diagram you'll see, for example, the ORG/WHT wire coming out of pin 73 becomes RED after the connector into ignition coil 2 CTRL. Ignition coil 7 also has red from it's CTRL, but it becomes ORG (no stripe) going back to pin 72. Those kinds of colors changes are what I was referring to.
My harness is from an '07 LY6.
My harness is from an '07 LY6.
#80
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I held out and caught a Packard crimp tool (repair type) on greedBay when I did my E38. If you don't have it already here's link to the J-38125 manual
http://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/autom...%20Booklet.pdf
Note Pin 73 on X1 is a different terminal with a different crimp.
http://www.weber.edu/wsuimages/autom...%20Booklet.pdf
Note Pin 73 on X1 is a different terminal with a different crimp.