Stock 10 bolt handle an ls3 swap?
#1
Stock 10 bolt handle an ls3 swap?
First let me say that I tried doing some searches to see if this has been covered and kept getting taking to a lot of threads that weren't really what I was looking for. If you find an old thread that addresses this I would appreciate the link so as to not clutter up the board rehashing this topic if it has in fact been covered.
Anyway I am wondering if the stock 10 bolt (3.55 gear) in a 67 Camaro would hold up to an ls3 (480) swap or is it necessary to upgrade that right away? Probably going to be running 275mm tires.
Thanks in advance for the help.
-C
Anyway I am wondering if the stock 10 bolt (3.55 gear) in a 67 Camaro would hold up to an ls3 (480) swap or is it necessary to upgrade that right away? Probably going to be running 275mm tires.
Thanks in advance for the help.
-C
#2
hm, kind of depends on the use. but i know the 8.2 10 bolts are a lot tougher than 4 gen f-bodies 7.5 10 bolts. guess if you were real worried find an 8.5in 10 bolt. 73-74 novas. same width and all.
i dont think youll have a problem..
i dont think youll have a problem..
#3
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iTrader: (3)
First let me say that I tried doing some searches to see if this has been covered and kept getting taking to a lot of threads that weren't really what I was looking for. If you find an old thread that addresses this I would appreciate the link so as to not clutter up the board rehashing this topic if it has in fact been covered.
Anyway I am wondering if the stock 10 bolt (3.55 gear) in a 67 Camaro would hold up to an ls3 (480) swap or is it necessary to upgrade that right away? Probably going to be running 275mm tires.
Thanks in advance for the help.
-C
Anyway I am wondering if the stock 10 bolt (3.55 gear) in a 67 Camaro would hold up to an ls3 (480) swap or is it necessary to upgrade that right away? Probably going to be running 275mm tires.
Thanks in advance for the help.
-C
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#4
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Unless you are beating on it I would think it'd be okay. I put an eaton and some new gears in my otherwise stock rear and it was fine with the 383 and the ls1, though I haven't run it with the 6.2 yet. Is replace a currently good rear necessary? No. Is it a fairly easy job worth considering at some point? Most likely. Just IMO, of course.
#5
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Might be able to use this for a comparison: I have a 7.5" rearend with 28 spline axles, 3.73 richmond gears and an eaton posi. Before I built it, I asked a few shops what this rearend combination would hold and they seemed to think it was good up to 500-550 rwhp before it grenaded.
#6
10 Second Club
My 8.2 lasted behind my 406 SBC running high 11's. Let it go before it left me stranded.
Had a buddy in the 10's before his let go (axle).
I don't care what you build, it's just a matter of time before it breaks if it's abused.
You should be fine for a while unless you plan to "drive it like you stole it".
Had a buddy in the 10's before his let go (axle).
I don't care what you build, it's just a matter of time before it breaks if it's abused.
You should be fine for a while unless you plan to "drive it like you stole it".
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#8
TECH Fanatic
IMO the weakest link in the 8.2 Chevrolet rear end is the axle/c-clip arrangement. If you abuse the car the axle will break at the spline and work it's way out. The actual ring gear is fine. The pinion is smaller in diameter than the 8.5 with 1.437" vs. 1.625" at the outer bearing. All told if you use a common street tire, not something sticky, you should be just fine. All of this is based on the fact that the car has not previously been beat on. To give you some peace of mind, pull the axles and inspect the spline, you could go so far as having them magnafluxed. If you see any twist, STOP! This is a bomb waiting to go off. This would be the time to reevaluate your position, since you will need to invest in axles.
#9
Launching!
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Given how easy it is to swap in a 12 bolt or 9", I think its worth the time and money to just do it now. The only exception to that is if you NEVER plan on drag racing, and just "cruise" it on the street.
Of course I've seen many people say that, but once the spring gets here and all your buddies head to the track:
- Your sixty foot is best measured with a calendar on those street tires.
- You break parts on the first day with slicks.
If you are going to run an automatic, I think your ten bolt could live a nice long life assuming some basic upgrades are performed. If you have a stick car, better bring a dustpan....
Of course I've seen many people say that, but once the spring gets here and all your buddies head to the track:
- Your sixty foot is best measured with a calendar on those street tires.
- You break parts on the first day with slicks.
If you are going to run an automatic, I think your ten bolt could live a nice long life assuming some basic upgrades are performed. If you have a stick car, better bring a dustpan....
#11
Upgraded to a corporate 8.5" in my 1965 Buick Skylark just to be safe. Running a 6.2L with an A6 for the tranny. I think the motor will be putting out around 580+hp.
Last edited by 1989GTA; 12-22-2012 at 05:05 PM.
#13
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You can get some "Yukon" brand 28 spline axles (about $220/pr) that are much stronger than stock due to being full diameter right up to the spline area. Stock axles are 'necked down' right near the spline, creating a weak point.
Your old stock axles are very likely worn at the outer bearing area right near the axle flange anyways.
Your old stock axles are very likely worn at the outer bearing area right near the axle flange anyways.
#15
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I'm going the road race route on mine, putting in Moser 30 spline axles and Eaton posi. The axles have Ford bearings on them, which eliminate the C-clips without the leakage associated with typical C-clip eliminators. The axle housing had to be modified with ends supplied by Moser. This might be an option for you, as you can essentially set your own axle width. My setup cost roughly 1200 + an original 8.5 inch 10-bolt axle. The end result is a very strong rear end.
#16
TECH Senior Member
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A correctly prep'd 8.5 can handle enough power to run into the 8's and last.
I had my 8.2 replaced with a 8.5, added 30 splined axle and posi and some good gears. It should handle whatever I well throw down on it.
You can find 8.5 housing in the Nova/X-body up to 1979. If your on a budget, you can find center / posi out of many 80's and 90's trucks and S10's.
Do some research on GM 8.5's rear ends.
BC
I had my 8.2 replaced with a 8.5, added 30 splined axle and posi and some good gears. It should handle whatever I well throw down on it.
You can find 8.5 housing in the Nova/X-body up to 1979. If your on a budget, you can find center / posi out of many 80's and 90's trucks and S10's.
Do some research on GM 8.5's rear ends.
BC
#17
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
A correctly prep'd 8.5 can handle enough power to run into the 8's and last.
I had my 8.2 replaced with a 8.5, added 30 splined axle and posi and some good gears. It should handle whatever I well throw down on it.
You can find 8.5 housing in the Nova/X-body up to 1979. If your on a budget, you can find center / posi out of many 80's and 90's trucks and S10's.
Do some research on GM 8.5's rear ends.
BC
I had my 8.2 replaced with a 8.5, added 30 splined axle and posi and some good gears. It should handle whatever I well throw down on it.
You can find 8.5 housing in the Nova/X-body up to 1979. If your on a budget, you can find center / posi out of many 80's and 90's trucks and S10's.
Do some research on GM 8.5's rear ends.
BC
#20
BOP 10-bolt different from Chevy 10-bolt
I have a 67 Firebird 400 (conv...not that it matters) and went through a rear-end rebuild about a year ago.
Turns out, the Firebird uses something called a BOP 10-bolt (Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac) instead of the Chevy 10-bolt. I don't know all the differences between the two, but the one that mattered for me was that the BOP 10-bolt doesn't use C-Clips like Chevy 10-bolt. The axle are retained out at the flanges, like a 9-inch Ford. I only know this because the trans-shop that did the work had to call around to find the axles that fit.
So, the BOP 10-bolt should be a little better than the Chevy one, by design.
As far as the ultimate limits, I think everyone that responded above gave some good advice. There are always options...it depends on how hard it gets used.
When it comes to speed, it always comes down to the same question: HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO PAY ?
Cheers,
Dan
Turns out, the Firebird uses something called a BOP 10-bolt (Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac) instead of the Chevy 10-bolt. I don't know all the differences between the two, but the one that mattered for me was that the BOP 10-bolt doesn't use C-Clips like Chevy 10-bolt. The axle are retained out at the flanges, like a 9-inch Ford. I only know this because the trans-shop that did the work had to call around to find the axles that fit.
So, the BOP 10-bolt should be a little better than the Chevy one, by design.
As far as the ultimate limits, I think everyone that responded above gave some good advice. There are always options...it depends on how hard it gets used.
When it comes to speed, it always comes down to the same question: HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO PAY ?
Cheers,
Dan