Mega Squirt 2??
will the mega suirt systems allow full tuning with both nos and turbo?
ive read a little bit about them but have herd both good and bad experiencs with them...has anyone used them or had good experiences using MS systems?
I will be running a 2004r transmission (speaking of '83) in my build so stand alone is the best way, unless someone knows about getting a speed sensor in a 2004r that will jive with factory ecu and maybe still give me mechanical for the og speedo ( I assume you need a speed input to make factory ecu work correctly)
Other issues with stand alone is that most don't have knock control, from what I've seen they have the option, but more of a warning light than actual timing correction. Many will say that a custom tune doesn't need knock control because that gets dealt with when the car is getting "professionally" tuned, but I feel that there are too many variables not to have it. I forget the fueling type, but I think you will only be able to run speed density, which needs only TP, MAP and RPM (Again if you have a cam sensor too, you can get sequential). Maybe some fueling correction if you run widebands, which is Alpha N, right?
I'm sure that someone will correct me, but if your more concerned with WOT performance I'd go MS but I believe the best driveability will come from the factory ECU with a MAF, 2 banks of 02s and knock control.
A warning though, it is very DIY.
At speeds above idle the combustion events happen so fast there is no benefit to sequential injection. Unless you are measuring EGT at each cylinder and tuning each cylinder individually you will likely see little to any benefit by going sequential and will only add complexity and cost to an already fairly complex project. You are still injecting fuel against the backside of a closed intake valve and it will sit there and wait until that valve opens. Yes there is a few millisecond difference from batch to sequential on injector firing time so in theory the fuel will have less time to come out of suspension on sequential, but again, it is all happening at a speed that is hard to even comprehend.
As far as waste spark goes the LS styles of coils are EXTREMELY powerful. For almost 100 years of internal combustion engines it was the norm to have a single coil to provide spark to all the cylinders. In waste spark you are using 4 coils to fire 8 cylinders, a 400% improvement over a single coil distributor setup! These coils really put out some juice. Look at what some people are making for HP on stock LS coils. And again, individual coil control means more cost and more complexity.
Having said all of that the MS3 is a thing of beauty. It is quite amazing. It is however fairly complex and as protomor said is heavy on the DIY side. There is NO phone number to call when you get stuck, and I guarantee you will get stuck. When that happens it is on you and hopefully the help of forum goers that have been down the same road to figure out what type of solution to your particular problem.
To get an MS3 set up to run an LS for sequential injection and individual coil control will run $577 for the hardware, an MS2 set up to do batch fire and waste spark will cost $278. That is a substantial price difference.
Either one will work incredibly. I have a lot of experience with the MS2 and I am in love with it. Dollar for dollar they can't be beat.
Good luck!
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Wasted spark is just that, you use half of the coil's charge to fire on 2 cylinders. 1 cylinder really needs it. You wear the coils out faster as they fire once every 360 instead of once every 720. This isn't really that big of a deal until you get to the point where you have to dwell longer than is possible. Then you wind up with spark blow out at high rpm. Not ideal. IMO, if you have 1 coil per cylinder, use them. No sense in converting to wasted spark. If you convert from a distributor, wasted spark will get you far but not all the way (depending on your goals).
Summation: Really doesn't matter for the average one of us. If you're going this far, why not go all the way?
MS2 vs MS3 however, I wouldn't even touch an MS2. The MS3X is superior in every way. This is not to be confused with a regular MS3. F that thing. The MS3x comes with SD card logging, a freaking logging switch, individual injection/spark, boost control, spark control, nos control, fan output, ebc, etc etc all without modifying anything. The MS2 requires you to solder extra bits and run modified MS extra code for spark. Sooo much more. Again, why go this far and not go all the way?
Personally, I've run an MS1 and MS3x. The MS forums are a great source of info. Worst case, diyautotune.com has great customer service. They even have a book on EFI basics. Matt cramer is an awesome guy.
*steps down from soap box*
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His answer is yes.
If you are not on a tight budget go with the latest version; if not Micro will do what you need.
Ok so lets analyze this thread.
Not sure what the above statements are based upon, experience, engineering background, rumor, etc. Id be interested in seeing your source documents; just the engineering stink coming out of me.
Wasted spark does not place a significant additional current load on the coil that is firing on the exhaust stroke. Ford has been running it for years and actually improves emissions as the spark ignites any unburned fuel heading out the exh port (insignificnt as it is). Never seen or heard of a burned out wasted spark coil based upon excessive sparking. Any proof of that statement?
MS3X is superior in functionality but not in price. Micro squirt is $340 but lacks IAC control that can easily be handled via FIDLE solenoid.
Sequential EFI is over rated and is generally used to improve low rpm emissions. LT1 was sequential but only up to about 3200 rpm. 99.9% of MS users and other Seq capable afterarket EFI system users will never touch the sequential tables because they dont have 8 wideband sensors and a load bearing dyno to actually tune each cylinder AFR. For the average user it would be a waste of his time and $$ to even attempt.
Why pay for added functions if you dont need them?
Also, modified MS extra code is easy to load (same process with any other MS system) and is almost fully automated. Just download the update, short one wire to ground, connect to the MS and press a couple keys. In about a minute it is done. It is rather simple.
I do have experience tuning each cylinder AFR on a dyno and I can tell you that there is more power to be gained by changing the timing than fuel.
Respectfully, Signed another satisfied MS user with over 9yrs tuning lsX engine :-)
Here is a sample of some of my tuning projects using MS and other efi systems.
http://www.youtube.com/user/aknovaman
Last edited by aknovaman; Jan 14, 2013 at 05:09 PM.
I do agree with you. I went for the more expensive route since things were easier for me that way.
I ran an MS1 for 2 years and an MS3 for 1. Def not as much experience as you sir.
I also agree with you guys that MS is very DIY, I can contest that I have seen more standalone systems rolling around a trunk or on a shelf because of the learning curve. Also if you struggle with OCD, you better get yourself a good pin kit, because soldering is a big no-no (over time the pointed solder joints will vibrate and puncture other wires) and the only other way is to use buttend connectors. But like I told my buddy when we were fitting an hx35 to a 1.8t, if it was easy everyone would be doing it.
That's just been my limited experience, but being in the same boat of what to do with my build I will rely on more seasoned MS users
If you are thinking of closed loop, with constant barometric pressure adjustment. If not then it is just closed loop you are talking about.
I wouldn't think many people would need altitude compensation, and if you want it, you have to run two pressure sensors, one for the baro,and one for the map.
Then the firmware can do the compensation. There is a setting to turn it on called real time baro correction, you turn it on and then you tell it the port your baro sensor is on, it does the rest.
There is also a section to deviate from the assumed linear barometric changes.
Most people just run the single sensor so the baro correction is sampled from the map sensor before start up.(this is how it will be if you leave everything how it is set initally) Then it is assumed close enough.
This is how many factory EFI setups did it.And how many aftermarket have, and still do, do it this way. The squirt is standard this way, but can be changed to "real time" barometric correction but adding a sensor, and turning on the feature.
Thanks and sorry to hijack







