pwirth

I am willing to try turning the mounts flipping them from this side to the other or use any ones experience and take any criticism to get this working. I am trying to lower the front of the engine so I do not have to cut on the transmission tunnel. Lizeec are you working on an "a" Body car?

71403

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...or-mounts.html

Post 2, pic 2, properly installed SBC frame mounts

Cant' speak for holley pan. Those mounts, matching engine side rubber mounts, 1" setback "swapcrap" plates and Champ/Autokraft pan it fits with 4l80E in a stock '71 a-body tunnel. Tight, but no surgery. I don't run A/C.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Yes I have a 66 GTO convertible and have a 2006 GTO LS2 & T56. When I did my swap I used the BRP install kit with a LH8 Muscle oil pan, when I did my swap there was no such thing as a Holley or Mast or the stamped metal pans. I did have to cut the transmission tunnel up for the T56 clearance.
I have since changed it to a Holley pan along with the BRP stuff still and I had no problems, I just gained ground clearance. You will find you are best off trying to stick with one manufacturer of swap parts as they are usually engineered to work together. Once you start mixing and matching swap parts you will run into the problems you are having, with body clearances and header clearances.

cbrodine

I'm in the same boat...I will be modding my tranny tunnel for 4L80. It is what it is...

tom70

iTrader: (10)

first off beautiful car!!! my first real car was a 71 skylark. I would check into chevelle upper and lower mounts. i'll try to find gm part # on my set. cross member has extra holes for sbc mounts. then set it up old school with big block springs all way around then don't have to worry about ground clearance. just kidding. if you want pics or measurements just let me know.

67Skylark

If you havent given up yet... LH side I used the frame pearch from a 66 chevelle with a Big block (swap meet purchase, sorry no part number), Mount 3-1114, Pertronix/Doug's SK100 adapter (hole that push engine back as far as posible. On the RH side I made my own adapter and pearch so the the factory ac compressor. The foward upper mount bolt goes through adapter into the block itself. The right head is about an inch off the firewall and i have a three degrees down. The 4L85E is very close, like the harness to the tranny has to be wrapped all conduits that fit wires is to large to fit. Had to adjust the tunnel with BFH for the dipstick and cooling lines. By the way, this is all on a 67 Skylark

pwirth

My first thought was that the father forward my engine is the more room I will have in the tunnel. from the looks of the pan i do not think i will gain clearence with the steering by moving the engine back. I took out the BFH over the weekend. I have been told that the engine should be at 2 degrees, right now I am at 4. has anyone tryed to bent their steering linkage(drag link) to gain clearence with the steering? I know it would change the toe in whick I can adjust but will it change the way it stears?

67Skylark

I did find some play at attachment bolts for the idler arm, that help move it down a touch, not much but ever little bit helps.

pwirth

woke up this morning thinking of what (71403) posted a few days ago. I have noticed that alot of "a" body kits have the motor mounts a lot farther forward than my mounts are. I am working with the stock Buick location. If you think of the mount as a fulcrum point moving them forward may give me some more clearance in the tunnel. That should put them in the location of your 67skylark pics, if nothing else I should eliminate at least one of the 1/4 in spacers, I will try to swap sides and move the mounts forward. I am listening, just stuburn I guess. Pics to follow

pwirth

well I wanted to update my progress, I took off the Holley oil pan and replaced it with a Champ oil pan, The Holley retro pan is 3.5 inches deep in front of the sump and the champ pan is 1.75 inches in front of the sump. This gained me 1.5 inches at the cross member and will get the pitch of the engine where I need it. I am using the Holley power steering relocation kit to raise the power steering pump. Of course that means I have to buy a new power steering pump and reservoir from a corvette or F body car. Just more money! I did save some money by going with a Tanks Inc. fuel tank. it is a nice unit but did not have the corner vents in the front of the tank, I cut them out of the old tank and soldered them into the new tank. I am running new -6 fuel line from the tank and using the old line for the fuel return.

pwirth

Put the engine back into place, it was a lot more difficult with the champ oil pan on it. putting the engine and trans combo in at once is almost impossible. I did it but I do not think it will come out that way. the new chanp pan gives me a lot more clearance in the front of the sump but sets the engine back 1.5 inches from what I was working with before. Now the Transmission linkage does not line up and the trans crossmember is to far back to use any of the existing holes in the frame. Before I do anything else I am bolting the headers and intake on it to see where I am at.. I may still need to cut my crossmember to move the engine forward again.

pwirth

Engine and trans officially bolted into place. Headers in, exhaust done, F.A.S.T fuel management mounted, MSD ignition box mounted, and Holley alternator relocation bracket installed with the serpentene belt system done.

LS2GS

How about some more pics! Sounds like you are on the right track!

BlueMaxCougar

It's thread like this that makes me want to abandon the buick 350/350 and go with a modern engine just for the mpg.

Jimbo1367

the easy hp/trq is just a added bonus.

BlueMaxCougar

Yes,I agree.

pwirth

Sorry about the lack of pics. Very close to starting engine, I got my Dakota Digital dash yesterday so I can install the gauges. still need to have the driveshaft made up

LS2GS

Sexy!!! What intake are you using?, it looks tall.

pwirth

That is an Edelbrock Victor Jr. EFI with fuel rails #29086
because of the angle of the engine I have to modify the air cleaner to lower the front of it. The air scoops fit great. Thanks for the Insperation with your LS2GS setup. I have not started it yet. Trying to install a Digital Instrument dash and I need to get a 1972 Buick wiring diagram

pwirth

I installed the digital dash over the weekend, programing it you have to turn on the ignition switch. When I would I could hear the fuel pump running but I did not think it was injecting gas because the engine was not turning over. DERRRRRRR. When I went to start the engine it Hydraulic locked up on me. I did not hook up the regulator correctly and pumped fuel into the intake manifold. DERRRR I pulled out all the Spark plugs and I had gas coming out of the cylinders. I was smart enough to disconnect the spark control but stupid enough to crank over the engine spraying the gas that was in the cylinders though out my garage. I was very lucky that I did not catch my house on fire! I will put the plugs in and try it again tonight. I hope I did not bend a rod!