LS1/T56 into a 68 Camaro
11-15-2013, 12:10 PM
#41
I was following a discussion on Sako's thread and it got me to wondering. I bought an LS-6 intake for my LS-1 and heard about modifications required to install the cross over water lines. What is this all about? Do I need to buy additional parts or make changes to the water line?
11-15-2013, 11:36 PM
#42
TECH Apprentice
Hey Allan, welcome to the forum. I am in the process of a similar swap on my 67. Here is some information that I posted in response to your question on Sako's thread.
"Here are a few links to get you started on understanding the benefits of the LS6 PCV system over LS1:
LS6 Valley cover install questions
http://www.ls1howto.com/?article=18
Just go with thew newer style valley cover, 04+ rather than the older style that uses the external PCV. Happy reading...
Also, I bought the AAW classic update kit when I was in the same contemplation stage as you. I started to wire it but not finished yet. It is a quality kit for sure. You'd be amazed at how many extra perks this fuse panel has. I also plan on using the PSI harness rather than cutting up the stock harness that I got with the engine. Anyway, you are making great progress! Keep up the good work and hit me up if you have any questions along the way, although you are in great hands with TSNOW, Tony knows is stuff!!
"Here are a few links to get you started on understanding the benefits of the LS6 PCV system over LS1:
LS6 Valley cover install questions
http://www.ls1howto.com/?article=18
Just go with thew newer style valley cover, 04+ rather than the older style that uses the external PCV. Happy reading...
Also, I bought the AAW classic update kit when I was in the same contemplation stage as you. I started to wire it but not finished yet. It is a quality kit for sure. You'd be amazed at how many extra perks this fuse panel has. I also plan on using the PSI harness rather than cutting up the stock harness that I got with the engine. Anyway, you are making great progress! Keep up the good work and hit me up if you have any questions along the way, although you are in great hands with TSNOW, Tony knows is stuff!!
11-18-2013, 07:32 AM
#44
Mister D that is good stuff on the PCV, but I was looking for a little more info on the configuration of the coolant tubes when using the LS-6 intake. There is a little note in your PCV install that talks about the 2001 and later coolant tubes. Is that what I need to buy?
11-20-2013, 08:22 PM
#45
When you say coolant tubes, are you referring to the steam vent lines? If so I used the block offs at the rear location and a front line off of a 2009 van due to the outlet location. It shouldn't matter which intake you choose. The steam vent needs to be connected to the upper radiator hose, top of the radiator, overflow reservoir, or to the top of the water pump. I hope this helps a little if I am way off base I will be happy to delete this post.
The sub-frame is badass by the way! I see your making progress fast, great job.
The sub-frame is badass by the way! I see your making progress fast, great job.
11-21-2013, 09:16 AM
#46
Tony, that is exactly the info I was looking for. I have done some research and you confirmed what I found out. I jhave seen the parts for sale on E-bay and other sites, so I am good now. I will be taking off tomorrow to mock up more connections. I have the power steering hooked up to the rack right now. For the pressure side I was able to use the original hose by cutting the end of and flaring it to 37 degrees to mate to the AN adapter that Art Morrison provided. I had interference with my original and the 4th gen brake booseter, so I am going with an 8" dual diaphragm that should come in tomorrow along with a few other throttle linkage parts that I am going to try to cobble together.
11-23-2013, 09:21 AM
#49
Took off work yesterday and made some progress. I got the power steering lines hooked up to the steering rack. I was able to use the existing power steering pressure hose by cutting off some of the tube at the end and flaring what was left to 37 degree AN. On the return side, I bought a 37 degree hose fitting and used regular low pressure hose. All in all a pretty clean installation.
11-23-2013, 09:59 AM
#50
I also got my throttle cable set up. I went with the 4th Gen F-body cable and used a combination of a bent 69 Camaro 6 cyl pedal and a 4th gen F-body pedal welded together. I had some trouble with the hole in the firewall. I used a 3/4 inch hole saw, but it walked on me and made a hole that was too big. I had to go to Ace and buy an 18 gauge machine spacer that had a .750 inch ID and weld that to the firewall for the throttle cable bulkhead fitting.
For the gas pedal, after I had the cable through the firewall, I blocked the throttle wide open and positioned the pedal pieces where they needed to be and tack welded them together. I had to do this twice because the first time, cable was too far offset at idle. Now I have it where the cable runs through the middle of the bulkhead bushing at 1/2 throttle. I also placed some foam padding under the pedal while I was mocking it up to replicate the thickness of the carpet. If I don't get full throttle when everything is together for the final time, I can always bend the pedal a little bit.
For the gas pedal, after I had the cable through the firewall, I blocked the throttle wide open and positioned the pedal pieces where they needed to be and tack welded them together. I had to do this twice because the first time, cable was too far offset at idle. Now I have it where the cable runs through the middle of the bulkhead bushing at 1/2 throttle. I also placed some foam padding under the pedal while I was mocking it up to replicate the thickness of the carpet. If I don't get full throttle when everything is together for the final time, I can always bend the pedal a little bit.
11-23-2013, 10:04 AM
#51
Finally yesterday, I finished mocking up the fuel system. I used my original 3/8" stainless line up to the firewall, flared it to 37 degree and added a tee fitting that will go to my fuel pressure gauge on the cowl. From the engine, I flipped the fuel rail 180 degrees, used the original hose connector from the car and a short length of the original tubing which was flared and connected to the other end of the tee. Not show quality, but functional and inexpensive.
I had to drill two holes on the side of the sub to clamp the fuel line and keep it secure.
I had to drill two holes on the side of the sub to clamp the fuel line and keep it secure.
11-24-2013, 11:19 AM
#54
Something I forgot to mention before. Both my original brake booster and the one from the 99 Firebird were too big and hit the #7 coil. Since I want to leave the coil packs in the stock location, I bought an 8" dual diaphragm booster. I mounted it up yesterday with no problems, but then I picked up the original cast iron master cylinder and compared it to the plastic/aluminum master cylinder from the 99 Firebird and I think I want to go with the modern one. Problem is it uses a different fitting (bubble flare vs. the inverted flare). I found a company that makes adapter fittings, now I just have to figure out what sizes I need. If anyone else has done this and knows the sizes, please tell.
11-25-2013, 10:52 AM
#58
I actually found the adapter fittings to go from metric bubble flare to standard inverted flare. Now I am wrestling with the proportioning valve. I don't know if I cna use the old one that I had on the car. It is for a disc/disc configuration, but I can't find any info on how the 4th gen plumbed their brakes on non ABS cars. I have found some info that leads me to believe that the rear port is for the front brakes which is opposite what I had.
11-25-2013, 02:11 PM
#60
Alan if your proportioning valve is from a disc/disc it should be a 50/50 and it shouldn't matter which port you use unless the ports are of different diameters. The larger port always goes to the rear brakes. Take a look at the factory hard-lines on your Camaro and you will see a difference in diameters.