1st gen Camaro/T56 guys step in please...
#1
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I seem to be having a lot more issues than everyone else trying to get this LS1 and T56 into my 68 Camaro. I had to ream the holes in the frame horns to get the motor to drop in, and now I'm looking at the trans tunnel and scratching my head again.
The car was originally a small block, manual trans car, but someones been in here cutting. I'm guessing it was originally a Super T10 car, and someone widened the shifter hole for a Muncie.
I'm measuring for the hole, and noticing that the top of the trans is already hitting the tunnel at the very front edge of the original hole. Anyone else have their trans this high? The rear of the trans is sitting on the Street and Performance crossmember (without the trans mount in), so it still needs to go up another 2 inches or so.
Does anyone have a picture of their trans tunnel before and after cutting? I could use a visual reference to help me out.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Scatter'd
The car was originally a small block, manual trans car, but someones been in here cutting. I'm guessing it was originally a Super T10 car, and someone widened the shifter hole for a Muncie.
I'm measuring for the hole, and noticing that the top of the trans is already hitting the tunnel at the very front edge of the original hole. Anyone else have their trans this high? The rear of the trans is sitting on the Street and Performance crossmember (without the trans mount in), so it still needs to go up another 2 inches or so.
Does anyone have a picture of their trans tunnel before and after cutting? I could use a visual reference to help me out.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Scatter'd
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I have a t56 in my 68 , it was originally a 4 speed car with a smallblock , I have a 330 horse ho smallblock in front , should be the same location as an ls engine it is tight but not super tight , and the mods I had to make were pedals , a hole in the firewall for the master cylinder rod and mount , [hydrolic clutch] , and a rectangular hole were the shifter mount comes thru the floor board , also fabed my own trans crossmember , trany came from a 96 z28
my bell is around 6 inchs deep , and it has an external slave
I did not have to cut or widen my tunnel at all
If I remember correctly the back of the trans has a bumper on top and that is touching my trans tunnel in back
my bell is around 6 inchs deep , and it has an external slave
I did not have to cut or widen my tunnel at all
If I remember correctly the back of the trans has a bumper on top and that is touching my trans tunnel in back
Last edited by ijimmy; 02-18-2013 at 03:52 PM.
#4
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I have a different version (T5) of the manual trans.
I'm wondering which engine frame stands you have? I believe that if you have the 'tall & narrow' frame stands, that this would raise the engine up, enough to cause interference with the tunnel.
The 'short & wide' frame stands would sit lower, for example, & would be used with Energy Suspension 3.1114 'short & wide' engine mounts.
What combo of mounts/adapter plates are you using?
I'm wondering which engine frame stands you have? I believe that if you have the 'tall & narrow' frame stands, that this would raise the engine up, enough to cause interference with the tunnel.
The 'short & wide' frame stands would sit lower, for example, & would be used with Energy Suspension 3.1114 'short & wide' engine mounts.
What combo of mounts/adapter plates are you using?
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I am using everything from Street and Performance. Also using the Energy Suspension motor mounts they recommended, I don't remember the part number.
I kinda agree with the frame stand comment. At least it make sense to me. Is there a factory or replacement frame stand that I can put in to avoid cutting up the tunnel anymore?
Thanks for the replies guys, keep them coming.
Scatter'd
I kinda agree with the frame stand comment. At least it make sense to me. Is there a factory or replacement frame stand that I can put in to avoid cutting up the tunnel anymore?
Thanks for the replies guys, keep them coming.
Scatter'd
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Not sure if we're saying the same thing...the short & wide stands should do the trick, and place the engine & tranny so that no cutting is needed.
I would give S&P a call and ask they intend with their setup.
Maybe there's someone reading this, who has used the same parts, and can chime in.
The other area of interest would be the tranny mount & isolator. What are you using there? S&P?
EDIT: Just reread the sticky in the Conversions section:"LSx into '67-'69 Camaro, the basics" by 67RSCamaroVette. In it, he uses S&P style plates & Energy Suspension mounts. He specifically said that no cutting of the car is needed.
Hope this helps.
I would give S&P a call and ask they intend with their setup.
Maybe there's someone reading this, who has used the same parts, and can chime in.
The other area of interest would be the tranny mount & isolator. What are you using there? S&P?
EDIT: Just reread the sticky in the Conversions section:"LSx into '67-'69 Camaro, the basics" by 67RSCamaroVette. In it, he uses S&P style plates & Energy Suspension mounts. He specifically said that no cutting of the car is needed.
Hope this helps.
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Ok, guys. I now realize that I'm dumber than I thought. After speaking with Street and Performance ( I should insert a shameless plug here since they kept trying to call me back and I wasn't available, thanks guys), I realize that I have been trying to install the crossmember on top of the subframe rails, much like the original crossmember.
Don't do this... The crossmember bolts up to the bottom of the subframe. I didn't think it should, but I'm anxious to get back into the garage in a few days to fix my stupidity. Hope this will help someone else...
Scatterbrained
Don't do this... The crossmember bolts up to the bottom of the subframe. I didn't think it should, but I'm anxious to get back into the garage in a few days to fix my stupidity. Hope this will help someone else...
Scatterbrained