Truck waterpump converted to F-body.
03-18-2013, 08:28 AM
#21
Neither of the f body pumps I bought had the groove to use a power steering pump puller. Otherwise I would have tried that rather than cutting the pulley simply to get a 3 jaw puller on it. Just looking at ebay, looks like both styles are offered, smooth and with the groove.
03-18-2013, 09:22 AM
#22
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Neither of the f body pumps I bought had the groove to use a power steering pump puller. Otherwise I would have tried that rather than cutting the pulley simply to get a 3 jaw puller on it. Just looking at ebay, looks like both styles are offered, smooth and with the groove.
03-18-2013, 09:47 AM
#23
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I've gotta ask- why go through all this effort rather than just buying an F-body pump and a pair of spacers to bring it out to the truck accessory distance? Seems to me that if you've got more than about 2 hours into screwing around with tapping, drilling, etc., you'd be ahead of the game just buying the right parts.
03-18-2013, 10:38 AM
#24
I'm using the Kwik AC bracket. Using spacers would require more mods to bracket than the water pump pulley swap.
I wanted a mechanical fan. There was no truck pump (the only with a threaded snout for a fan) that would fit.
The rest of my mods, threaded heater fittings, were required because of A arm interference.
I wanted a mechanical fan. There was no truck pump (the only with a threaded snout for a fan) that would fit.
The rest of my mods, threaded heater fittings, were required because of A arm interference.
I've gotta ask- why go through all this effort rather than just buying an F-body pump and a pair of spacers to bring it out to the truck accessory distance? Seems to me that if you've got more than about 2 hours into screwing around with tapping, drilling, etc., you'd be ahead of the game just buying the right parts.
Last edited by garys 68; 03-18-2013 at 11:00 AM.
03-18-2013, 03:23 PM
#25
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I've gotta ask- why go through all this effort rather than just buying an F-body pump and a pair of spacers to bring it out to the truck accessory distance? Seems to me that if you've got more than about 2 hours into screwing around with tapping, drilling, etc., you'd be ahead of the game just buying the right parts.
03-18-2013, 03:25 PM
#26
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I've gotta ask- why go through all this effort rather than just buying an F-body pump and a pair of spacers to bring it out to the truck accessory distance? Seems to me that if you've got more than about 2 hours into screwing around with tapping, drilling, etc., you'd be ahead of the game just buying the right parts.
I drilled and tapped the truck water pump in about 45min this weekend. The hose fitting was $7. I bought the tap and drill for ~$60 or so, but I could have borrowed one. Water pumps usually last 100-150K in my experience so I am not to worried about being left on the road.
03-18-2013, 03:41 PM
#27
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I hear you. In my case I had a near new truck pump that came with my motor. I considered buying the 98-02 F-body pump + spacers +tensioner (about $200) or the 2010 camaro water pump ($150+ $95 tensioner). I also could have used the F-body pump and pressed on the truck pulley, but I decided to be cheap.
I drilled and tapped the truck water pump in about 45min this weekend. The hose fitting was $7. I bought the tap and drill for ~$60 or so, but I could have borrowed one. Water pumps usually last 100-150K in my experience so I am not to worried about being left on the road.
I drilled and tapped the truck water pump in about 45min this weekend. The hose fitting was $7. I bought the tap and drill for ~$60 or so, but I could have borrowed one. Water pumps usually last 100-150K in my experience so I am not to worried about being left on the road.
03-19-2013, 02:57 PM
#30
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I've emailed frezeplugwarehouse as they don't have a phone number listed. Have not heard back yet.
I drilled and tapped my pump for the Moroso fitting, i'll post a picture later. I have to agree with most that it's best to start with an f-body pump, the GTO/LS3 pump is an even better choice. I wanted to try it as an alternative to swapping pulleys and yes it is way easier to swap the pulley. But, if you happen to have the truck pumps laying around and you have the tooling required..... then why not. Guys, myself included, like to say they did it themselves. In this case, buy the f-body pump.
Spacers, skip the spacers as they are a waste of money, It's cheaper to by a reman truck pump for the pulley. Keep it clean looking and swap the pulley.
If I do hear back about the freeze plug I will let everyone know as I will be buying a bulk quantity depending on pricing.
I drilled and tapped my pump for the Moroso fitting, i'll post a picture later. I have to agree with most that it's best to start with an f-body pump, the GTO/LS3 pump is an even better choice. I wanted to try it as an alternative to swapping pulleys and yes it is way easier to swap the pulley. But, if you happen to have the truck pumps laying around and you have the tooling required..... then why not. Guys, myself included, like to say they did it themselves. In this case, buy the f-body pump.
Spacers, skip the spacers as they are a waste of money, It's cheaper to by a reman truck pump for the pulley. Keep it clean looking and swap the pulley.
If I do hear back about the freeze plug I will let everyone know as I will be buying a bulk quantity depending on pricing.
03-20-2013, 09:58 AM
#32
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That thought crossed my mind. On my pump the bore of the top hole 1.297" and it did not look like there was enough meat for a 1-1/4" npt plug (1.500" drill size). I am planning on ordering the dorman freeze plug from rock auto with my next order. Plan B will be cutting the old outlet and welding a cap on. Plan C will be welding the casting itself. At that point I would probably just buy a F body pump for $80 from rock auto.
03-20-2013, 03:07 PM
#33
With a mechanical TB, you might even be able to use an 07+ truck water pump with the angled outlet. No mods other than maybe a little clearancing needed.
That thought crossed my mind. On my pump the bore of the top hole 1.297" and it did not look like there was enough meat for a 1-1/4" npt plug (1.500" drill size). I am planning on ordering the dorman freeze plug from rock auto with my next order. Plan B will be cutting the old outlet and welding a cap on. Plan C will be welding the casting itself. At that point I would probably just buy a F body pump for $80 from rock auto.
03-24-2013, 07:50 PM
#35
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No response from freezeplugfactory but i've found a OE plug from Range Rover that is 1.300". Also a distributor within 10 miles of me who has them in stock. I'm going tomorrow to check them out and will let you know if they will work.
The late model truck waterpump is not an option as the whole point here was to convert to an LS1 style pump with the hose connection coming out the front of the pump.
The late model truck waterpump is not an option as the whole point here was to convert to an LS1 style pump with the hose connection coming out the front of the pump.
03-25-2013, 05:51 PM
#39
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i also did the pulley swap method... worked great.
i tried keeping the truck pump and pulley cutting down the upper fitting and using a throttle body spacer for more clearance. it just wasnt enough.
my water pump is casted differently than the ls1 pump and other truck pumps. it doesnt have the area to drill out and tap to move the upper water neck to the ls1 location so that wasnt an option.
checked out the 07 and newer truck pumps. figured that would be a good option since its direct bolt on with no modification what so ever. they are expesive as hell!!
ls1 water pump with spacers were as stated already as much as water pumps and then that was another mounting surface to worry about leaking and after buying the spacers now i still needed a water pump.
thanks to 99VetteFRC and his build i didnt realize the pulleys were intercangeable. found a lightly used ls1 water pump on craigslist for $50. used a 2 jaw puller and a bearing seperator to pull the pulley evenly and pressed it on the new pump. done
to each their own but this way seemed like the easiest and cheapest way
i tried keeping the truck pump and pulley cutting down the upper fitting and using a throttle body spacer for more clearance. it just wasnt enough.
my water pump is casted differently than the ls1 pump and other truck pumps. it doesnt have the area to drill out and tap to move the upper water neck to the ls1 location so that wasnt an option.
checked out the 07 and newer truck pumps. figured that would be a good option since its direct bolt on with no modification what so ever. they are expesive as hell!!
ls1 water pump with spacers were as stated already as much as water pumps and then that was another mounting surface to worry about leaking and after buying the spacers now i still needed a water pump.
thanks to 99VetteFRC and his build i didnt realize the pulleys were intercangeable. found a lightly used ls1 water pump on craigslist for $50. used a 2 jaw puller and a bearing seperator to pull the pulley evenly and pressed it on the new pump. done
to each their own but this way seemed like the easiest and cheapest way
03-25-2013, 06:05 PM
#40
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The RangeRover plug was bigger than advertised. It would never press into the truck pump. I ended up with a 34.3mm plug from NAPA, 381-9006. It was smaller than the RangeRover plug. I'll drill out the pump the .050" and press in the freeze plug and seal it with loctite. Posting pictures as soon as it's done.