Truck waterpump converted to F-body.
03-26-2013, 08:16 PM
#42
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i also did the pulley swap method... worked great.
i tried keeping the truck pump and pulley cutting down the upper fitting and using a throttle body spacer for more clearance. it just wasnt enough.
my water pump is casted differently than the ls1 pump and other truck pumps. it doesnt have the area to drill out and tap to move the upper water neck to the ls1 location so that wasnt an option.
checked out the 07 and newer truck pumps. figured that would be a good option since its direct bolt on with no modification what so ever. they are expesive as hell!!
ls1 water pump with spacers were as stated already as much as water pumps and then that was another mounting surface to worry about leaking and after buying the spacers now i still needed a water pump.
thanks to 99VetteFRC and his build i didnt realize the pulleys were intercangeable. found a lightly used ls1 water pump on craigslist for $50. used a 2 jaw puller and a bearing seperator to pull the pulley evenly and pressed it on the new pump. done
to each their own but this way seemed like the easiest and cheapest way
i tried keeping the truck pump and pulley cutting down the upper fitting and using a throttle body spacer for more clearance. it just wasnt enough.
my water pump is casted differently than the ls1 pump and other truck pumps. it doesnt have the area to drill out and tap to move the upper water neck to the ls1 location so that wasnt an option.
checked out the 07 and newer truck pumps. figured that would be a good option since its direct bolt on with no modification what so ever. they are expesive as hell!!
ls1 water pump with spacers were as stated already as much as water pumps and then that was another mounting surface to worry about leaking and after buying the spacers now i still needed a water pump.
thanks to 99VetteFRC and his build i didnt realize the pulleys were intercangeable. found a lightly used ls1 water pump on craigslist for $50. used a 2 jaw puller and a bearing seperator to pull the pulley evenly and pressed it on the new pump. done
to each their own but this way seemed like the easiest and cheapest way
03-27-2013, 03:49 PM
#43
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Converted truck pump to LS1. Here's the pump all done. Used a carbide burr and sanding drum to open the hole the required .050" and fit the plug. Used green loctite to seal it up tight. My conclusion is still the same, buy the F-body or GTO pump and swap the pulley.
Moroso 63544
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Moroso 63544
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Thank you to everyone whos followed and contributed to this thread.
03-27-2013, 03:53 PM
#44
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Here's the pump all done. Used a carbide burr and sanding drum to open the hole the required .050" and fit the plug. Used green loctite to seal it up tight. My conclusion is still the same, buy the F-body or GTO pump and swap the pulley.
Moroso 63544
Napa 381-9006
Thank you to everyone whos followed and contributed to this thread.
Moroso 63544
Napa 381-9006
Thank you to everyone whos followed and contributed to this thread.
03-28-2013, 06:40 PM
#45
Here's the pump all done. Used a carbide burr and sanding drum to open the hole the required .050" and fit the plug. Used green loctite to seal it up tight. My conclusion is still the same, buy the F-body or GTO pump and swap the pulley.
Moroso 63544
Napa 381-9006
Thank you to everyone whos followed and contributed to this thread.
Moroso 63544
Napa 381-9006
Thank you to everyone whos followed and contributed to this thread.
What yr is your pump...I am bummed out now i was so excited to do this to my pump and looked at it and i dont have the flat boss on the front to drill and tap..my pump is from a 2005 LM7 5.3 out of a Silverado,,at least i think it is
03-28-2013, 09:30 PM
#47
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03-29-2013, 01:17 AM
#48
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This was my original pump off my 2000 GMC Sierra. I had never seen the pump you mention until the mentioned ones above. The castings for the LS1 pumps have minor differances too when examined closely. Why GM made so many variations unless the aftermarket did?
tta656, the excitement wore off for me while trying to tap the hole. There really isn't much savings here when you figure your time and tooling. Ultimately this the pump I will be using with the pulley swap. Offer $120.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230874504274...84.m1439.l2649
tta656, the excitement wore off for me while trying to tap the hole. There really isn't much savings here when you figure your time and tooling. Ultimately this the pump I will be using with the pulley swap. Offer $120.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230874504274...84.m1439.l2649
03-29-2013, 02:34 PM
#50
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Some of the LS1 castings I have seen are not exactly the same as the common truck casting. The bolt hole next to the waterneck is sometimes relieved so a truck tensioner could not be used directly without some extra washers at that bolt location. The thermostats are not always interchangable as the earlier trucks used the integral stat/neck vs the seperate thermostat and waterneck. But for the most part the castings are the same and some may even be identical.
03-29-2013, 05:55 PM
#51
Bought today....thanks Dennis
03-30-2013, 05:47 AM
#52
So with truck brackets the options are
2010+ Camaro Water Pump $160 (+/-) & tensioner $90 (+/-) Total $250
LS1 Camaro Water Pump $150 (+/-) & Dirty Dingo water pump spacer kit, includes bolts, spacers, gaskets $90. Total $240
LS1 Camaro Water Pump + truck pump and swap pulley, granted you have the correct puller tools and shop press. Can be done for just the cost of the new fbody water pump, or factor in the needed tools or cost of someone else to do it.
Truck Pump, $5-$20 for 1in NPT to 1 1/4 hose fitting, $2 freeze plug, tools need to drill and tap or pay to have it done.
2010+ Camaro Water Pump $160 (+/-) & tensioner $90 (+/-) Total $250
LS1 Camaro Water Pump $150 (+/-) & Dirty Dingo water pump spacer kit, includes bolts, spacers, gaskets $90. Total $240
LS1 Camaro Water Pump + truck pump and swap pulley, granted you have the correct puller tools and shop press. Can be done for just the cost of the new fbody water pump, or factor in the needed tools or cost of someone else to do it.
Truck Pump, $5-$20 for 1in NPT to 1 1/4 hose fitting, $2 freeze plug, tools need to drill and tap or pay to have it done.
06-08-2013, 08:55 AM
#53
Then I used a power steering pulley puller to remove the LS1 pulley.
Attachment 395314
Then I used a shop press to press the truck pulley back on the LS1 pump. I removed the back cover and put a socket on the back of the pulley shaft to support the shaft. If this is not done the bearings and seals in the pump will be damaged.
Attachment 395314
Then I used a shop press to press the truck pulley back on the LS1 pump. I removed the back cover and put a socket on the back of the pulley shaft to support the shaft. If this is not done the bearings and seals in the pump will be damaged.
The red is where it split.
06-08-2013, 09:13 AM
#54
I've removed 3 truck pulleys with a 3 jaw puller. They come off easy. For some reason the f body pulleys are a pain. I used a cutoff wheel to split the pulley and cut part way where the collar fits the shaft. The 3 jaw puller got it off easy then.
Btw, some f body pulleys don't have the groove to use a power steering puller.
Btw, some f body pulleys don't have the groove to use a power steering puller.
was it real hard to remove the pulley grabbing it from the center.I tried a heavy duty 3 jaw puller that kinda grabbed the whole pully from underneath and wondering if grabbing it that way caused it to flex and bind,,I had so much tension on it that the tip of the puller where it makes contact with the shaft split ..
The red is where it split.
The red is where it split.
06-09-2013, 12:55 AM
#56
When i lay the truck WP and this ls WP on the bench,it appears that i only need to pull the pulley out about 3/4"and it would be in the correct location,thats why i was using the puller,so you saying take my truck pully and put it on the ls wp.
06-10-2013, 02:39 PM
#58
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If you carefully grind a groove into the snout you can use a standard p/s puller to remove it. It took me 5 minutes with a cutoff wheel to grind the groove. Another method is to drill and tap 3 3/8" holes into the face of the pulley and use a standard steering wheel puller to remove it. Both of these methods are simple and effective.
The LS pulley presses on approximately 7/8" therefore I doubt it would stay on the pump for very long. Install the truck pulley to avoid any future issues. Press it onto the LS pulley exactly the same distance it is on the truck pump so make note before your pull it from the pump.
BOXCHEV, I will likely weld as you did above if I need to do future conversions. If only I could weld that good. Nicely done.
The LS pulley presses on approximately 7/8" therefore I doubt it would stay on the pump for very long. Install the truck pulley to avoid any future issues. Press it onto the LS pulley exactly the same distance it is on the truck pump so make note before your pull it from the pump.
BOXCHEV, I will likely weld as you did above if I need to do future conversions. If only I could weld that good. Nicely done.
06-29-2013, 08:01 AM
#59
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This may be covered elsewhere, but how do you remove the back cover? I have an LS6 pump sitting here off my old CTS-V engine and it looks like the cover is just press fit into place. I don't see any easy way to get it off.