1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

The 20 cents between 87 and 93 isn't a problem the way I see it. Paying 10 cents more a gallon for only 89 is what I was complaining about. It's only 2 octane.

It's kinda like when I see SOME people pulling out TH350/TH400/Muncie's etc. to swap in an OD transmission in a car that they don't drive more than a few thousand miles a year if that. Together with the fact that when they do drive it, they rarely get to highway speeds and into OD for very long. Given that rate they will never save enough gas to pay for the swap. Sure there is some decreased engine wear to be had, but again....if it's only driven a few thousand miles a year it's negligible. For those who intend on actually driving their car I'm all for it.

Bazman

A whole generation of kids are now growing up looking at V8's like they're dinosaurs and contributing to the worlds problems - right or wrong.

They also look at people with attitudes like you just expressed with contempt, as being red neck and retarded because it reflects an "I don't give a crap about the planet" while they do. Soon they will out number all of us as our generation is dying off and the world changes.

The only way large V8's are going to be anywhere other than museums or nostalgic races in 20 years time is if technology enables them to be more efficient and environmentally friendly.

On that note what kind of person would laugh at someone trying to have fun seeing how they can make a V8 more efficient?

A buddy of mine achieved 30mpg on a trip out of his twin turbo Viper that made over 1000hp. Now that is efficient from an 8L V10. A 1000hp car getting 8mpg highway is laughable in 2013. Mike Moran built TT street cars have run 200mph 1/4 mile passes and still got over 20mpg on trips. Welcome to the 21st century,

carry on

Bazman

The bottom line is there is a cost vs benefit to every mod so you need to decide on the end result - is it maximum mpg or cheapest over all cost?

If max mpg is the goal - go high compression and spend good money chasing the dream. I like to do that.

If it's cheapest over-all running costs you are after - then you have to weigh up every modification to the pay-back period (ie how long until the savings pay for the mod?). If that's your thing - go for it!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Thank Fast n The Furious for that....when that came out every kid with a Honduh thought they had a ****** racecar.

Bazman

lol, true....

add fart can, drop pants over boxers, look gangster

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Add wing, fartcan, wheels, cut springs, suck a dick here n there..racecar.


I was a junior in highschool when the first one came out..the next year every kid that could drive had a bumble bee..

Bazman

So fuel cut on decel won't work for an auto then, at least not well, as when you back off the throttle, lock up dis-engages, losing a lot of rotational inertia into the slush box and converter.

Fuel decel works great in my auto BMW (so they've figured it out) but in my LS1 with A4 my tuner has not found a way yet to make it effective with the auto. If anyone knows how to make it work easily and reliably without annoying side-effects (like bucking, stalling etc) I'd love to hear it as it makes sense to cut fuel under trailing throttle as long as the engine refires instantly and smoothly... which pretty much requires lock up to stay on to keep rpms matched to road speed

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Go back and actually read the thread! I guarantee you will come out dumber than you went in.

Save the planet. Another nugget of wisdom.

Wanna be able to take your muscle car to more than one event a month? Then don't go stupid on the cam and gear it right. Those two things will get you 90% of the way there. The availability of LS motors and OD transmissions give us options we didn't have in the 60's. For that last 10% you will need to go somewhere other than this thread.

And yes, like it or not, if you REALLY want to maximize efficiency then a V8 is the wrong place to start.

Bazman

Live and let live Pop, is all I'm saying. What is dumb and stupid to you is fun to someone else. I do agree however that taking a V8 and dropping power to try to match a 4 cylinder for economy would be dumb to most people.

How many hot rodders through the years did some really dumb things that they totally loved doing, and they thought it was cool? Mating twin 6-71 blowers together comes to mind lol

However, taking a V8 to make MORE power and then making it comparable (or even better) than current OEM economy benchmarks is a legitimate pursuit....one all OEM's are doing themselves in fact.

The op came here looking for good ideas.

here's a few for the engine:

- tight quench between 030 and 040
- TBC on pistons, chambers, valves, exhaust ports
- Anti-friction coatings on piston skirts
- coated bearings
- 5W30 synthetic
- To get best economy tune at cruise - use tuning software like EFI Live or - - HP Tuners to determine minimum injector flow for a given cruise simulated loading rather than trying to see how lean you can get or how much timing you can run - both those things can quickly go negative if you need more fuel to maintain speeds
- index plugs
- tune all cylinders individually - requires 8 o2 sensors
- install more accurate and better atmoizing injectors like Bosch EV14's
- run a super slippery friction mod like Oil Extreme or Militec - both proven to reduce friction losses and heat, so add to drivetrain as well
- heat the fuel (via coolant not exhaust) - but recalibrate the tune for that or it will go pig rich - might have to by-pass the O2 to get it right beyond lamba, may need a one way valve to avoid vapor lock
- run an custom economy cam then remote turbocharge with a super low back pressure system to make power
- headers and free flow exhaust
- nonrestrictive intake

the list could go on and on - the cost would never be recovered in fuel savings BUT you'd have fun and could get some pretty remarkable results