Fc rx7 won't start
#42
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The ground only a few sensors. I.e. MAF, Oil Level. The pcm provides most of the low reference signals to critical sensors. The broken ground was most likely for the PCM or the Coils.
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#44
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Try jumpering it to the negative on the battery.
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#46
TECH Fanatic
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From what I can tell by reading all this, you should look into a second harness assembly from someone/somewhere. Swap it all at once and go from there. And just because you test the wiring at a connection by a sensor does not mean it is making the trip to the ecu. Something is broken/shorted somewhere. And the stereo not working properly is a dead giveaway. Did you ever get it to working properly in the car and not the jeep?
#48
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good. Now if you wont get a second harness to just swap in, pull the ENTIRE harness and check it top to bottom up and down. except for grounds and battery power, it should all be simple to just unplug. a pain in the butt, but simple enough. I had to do this on a 93 s-10 we pulled the 2.8 out of to change freeze plugs. it took us 4 days to track through that entire harness and re-wrap it with wire loom and electrical tape and zip ties. But we found 2 cooked wires and 4 smashed wires. replaced them and the truck is STILL running fantastic for its new owner from over 3 years ago.
Trust me, pull the harness. The car isn't running anyways and all this guess work is steadily pointing towards the harness having something broken or burnt that is hiding in it somewhere. now get to work!! LOL
Trust me, pull the harness. The car isn't running anyways and all this guess work is steadily pointing towards the harness having something broken or burnt that is hiding in it somewhere. now get to work!! LOL
#49
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good. Now if you wont get a second harness to just swap in, pull the ENTIRE harness and check it top to bottom up and down. except for grounds and battery power, it should all be simple to just unplug. a pain in the butt, but simple enough. I had to do this on a 93 s-10 we pulled the 2.8 out of to change freeze plugs. it took us 4 days to track through that entire harness and re-wrap it with wire loom and electrical tape and zip ties. But we found 2 cooked wires and 4 smashed wires. replaced them and the truck is STILL running fantastic for its new owner from over 3 years ago.
Trust me, pull the harness. The car isn't running anyways and all this guess work is steadily pointing towards the harness having something broken or burnt that is hiding in it somewhere. now get to work!! LOL
Trust me, pull the harness. The car isn't running anyways and all this guess work is steadily pointing towards the harness having something broken or burnt that is hiding in it somewhere. now get to work!! LOL
This. This is also why I make the fuse block and interior wiring all disconnectable from my engine harness. Just in case something gets damaged its an easy pull.
This is also why I use GM color codes, makes for much easier diagnostics with GM diagrams.
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#51
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Ok, maybe I will just tackle it myself. Think it would be a bad idea to pull the LS1 and drop in the 408 when i put the harness back in? Since that will be introducing a new variable to a possible no start...
#52
TECH Fanatic
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If you pull motor and harness all together, it could save some time. but actually swapping in another engine at that time without diagnosing the original problem could throw all the work right out the window. take things one step at a time and try to get it running right, then worry about the swap over.
#53
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Id pull them both, and if you find an issue with the harness that would cause the no start then you could think about putting the 408 in...
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#55
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My fellow Jarhead, I have a really good feeling you will find an issue there.
FWIW, one time I actually saw a TPS cause a no start condition. That is the ONLY time I have ever seen that, and I have never heard of it before or again.
I think all of the bases have pretty much been covered in this thread. One thing to check, which I think you have already- is to use a multimeter and check for ignition power between the black and pink on both coil connectors.
FWIW, one time I actually saw a TPS cause a no start condition. That is the ONLY time I have ever seen that, and I have never heard of it before or again.
I think all of the bases have pretty much been covered in this thread. One thing to check, which I think you have already- is to use a multimeter and check for ignition power between the black and pink on both coil connectors.
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