spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

Forgive me if this has been covered a million times already but I tried to search and didn't find much.

My radiator sprung a leak and needs to be replaced. I have a new aluminum unit on order and want to do a fluid flush while I'm at it.

How much coolant does a 5.3 engine hold? I know that heater and radiator volume changes with every different radiator choice and car so that is why I'm asking for what the engine holds.

Are there any general guidelines? Like block will still have X volume of clean water after flush so add Y volume of 100% coolant before adding 50/50 mix to finish filling... I want to get rid of all my current coolant because I currently have multiple brands and colors in the system. Since I am not sure if they are all universal types and am not really sure that "universal" really means universal I'd like to have just 1 brand in my system.

What is everyone running for coolant? I am planning to run universal green stuff unless it would be better to run Dexcool, opinions please...

I am not running an expansion tank, I kept the old Monte Carlo overflow system (I think that matters when considering Dex vs. universal)

TIA,

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

You're going to get about as many different opinions as replies. I tried to get a simple answer a while back and it is amazing how complicated antifreeze has gotten.

The one thing everyone should agree on is don't mix types. Some are flat out incompatible with each other and will damage your engine.

The difference between the green stuff and new types is the corrosion protection additives. The anti-freeze part of the coolant never wears out or needs replacing, but they all lose their corrosion protection over time. The newer stuff doesn't need to be replaced as often as the green stuff.

I run plain ole green stuff with my swap. I too have an aluminum radiator and aluminum block LS2, but the heater core is still a 1970 vintage brass-copper unit.

When I flush I rinse with a hose for as long as I can stand it. I then drain as much as I can and fill back up with straight anti freeze. Figure that gets diluted by what water trapped in the block. If you want to get the mixture right a cheap antifreeze tester will tell you. Lots of people say to use demineralized water rather than garden hose water. Probably a good idea but I am too cheap for that.

One last thing. Can't hurt to add a tube of stop leak. When I pulled the water pump on my brand new crate motor I was surprised to find a slug of stop leak that GM put in the coolant passage. Figure if GM does it with new motors...

71403

Green vs long-life on retrofits, my $0.02 is green in open systems and long-life in sealed systems.

Most of the time I just refill with 50/50 regardless of what's left in the block. Run a while to mix it all up, test, so far the result has always been 50/50.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Most swap vehicles are better off using the green stuff since they typically don't have a completely sealed cooling system. When Dexcool mixes with air it turns into a mud like substance which isn't good.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

If your going to convert.. make sure you do a good job of flushing the old Dex stuff out.

Would suggest you run water for a short period of time using some fast flush or something. Then drain and fill a few time before adding the Green/Blue stuff.. but don't just drain and fill.. As LS1nova71 said, you will end up with a muddy mess...

spacemanspif

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the replies guys. I have some Peak universal concentrate I think I am going to use.

I am planning to flush the hell out of the system before filling up with any coolant.

Thanks again,