My 72 Buick Skylark Ls conversion build
Staging Lane
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Teching In
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From: Oregon
Evap purge solenoid...
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Oregon
I am beyond impressed. I knew it would be an improvement, but I had no idea it would be that much more power and so responsive.. And its just a stock motor with only headers and intake added. One of my main reasons for keeping the truck intake is cause people had said it had a better low end torque than the camaro style and knowing that I was keeping my highway gears in the back 2:56's I wanted all the low end engine grunt I could. So I can basiclly do 80 mph and the motor is not even breathing hard.. LOVE IT!!
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Teching In
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I am beyond impressed. I knew it would be an improvement, but I had no idea it would be that much more power and so responsive.. And its just a stock motor with only headers and intake added. One of my main reasons for keeping the truck intake is cause people had said it had a better low end torque than the camaro style and knowing that I was keeping my highway gears in the back 2:56's I wanted all the low end engine grunt I could. So I can basiclly do 80 mph and the motor is not even breathing hard.. LOVE IT!!
Hey bud, had a quick question. I am swapping a 5.3 lm7 out of an 01 Tahoe into my 72 skylark. I have the engine in, and the trans mated up. However the stock power steering pulley from Tahoe is hitting the Steering box, and the steering linkage is hitting the oil pan. Was wondering if you had any advice?
Last edited by efregoso; Mar 3, 2016 at 06:47 PM.
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Teching In
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From: Oregon
Hey bud, had a quick question. I am swapping a 5.3 lm7 out of an 01 Tahoe into my 72 skylark. I have the engine in, and the trans mated up. However the stock water pump from Tahoe is hitting the power steering pump, and the steering linkage is hitting the oil pan. Was wondering if you had any advice?
Hey bud, had a quick question. I am swapping a 5.3 lm7 out of an 01 Tahoe into my 72 skylark. I have the engine in, and the trans mated up. However the stock water pump from Tahoe is hitting the power steering pump, and the steering linkage is hitting the oil pan. Was wondering if you had any advice?
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Andrew
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The need to cut your floor for transmission installations depends on what specific oil pan, engine brackets and transmission crossmember you are using to accomplish your swap. There are two new sets of engine brackets available from Hooker for the 68-72 A-body swap application and one of them will allow you to install all GM automatics into your car behind an LS without having to cut the floor. This is done while also providing optimized U-joint working angles following installation. It is a requirement to use the Holley 302-2 oil pan in order to be able to install the Hooker engine brackets.
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The need to cut your floor for transmission installations depends on what specific oil pan, engine brackets and transmission crossmember you are using to accomplish your swap. There are two new sets of engine brackets available from Hooker for the 68-72 A-body swap application and one of them will allow you to install all GM automatics into your car behind an LS without having to cut the floor. This is done while also providing optimized U-joint working angles following installation. It is a requirement to use the Holley 302-2 oil pan in order to be able to install the Hooker engine brackets.
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Gotcha currently im using the jegs Ls swap oil pan, and the umi performance 68-72 gm a body Lsx motor mounts. I am using the trucks accessory drive system, however I read that I could go with a 5" diameter pulley rather than the 7" that im came with the car, since the pulley is hitting the power steering pump
If you want to be able to install a transmission without cutting/modifying the tunnel, you can do so with a TH350, TH400, 2004R or 700R4 transmission. If you are planning on using a 4L60-4L70, 4L80/4L85 or T56 transmission, get out your zip wheel or plasma cutter now as you will need it. If you want to install any of the later mentioned transmissions without cutting the tunnel, you'll have to move the engine/transmission mating plane forward by 1.25", which neither the UMI mounts or your oil pan will allow you to do.
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The UMI motor mounts were designed for use with an 4th-gen F-body LS1 pan, which explains why you're having tie-rod clearance issues with the taller front height of your Jeg's oil pan...the 4th-gen pan is only 1.25" tall along its front edge.
If you want to be able to install a transmission without cutting/modifying the tunnel, you can do so with a TH350, TH400, 2004R or 700R4 transmission. If you are planning on using a 4L60-4L70, 4L80/4L85 or T56 transmission, get out your zip wheel or plasma cutter now as you will need it. If you want to install any of the later mentioned transmissions without cutting the tunnel, you'll have to move the engine/transmission mating plane forward by 1.25", which neither the UMI mounts or your oil pan will allow you to do.
If you want to be able to install a transmission without cutting/modifying the tunnel, you can do so with a TH350, TH400, 2004R or 700R4 transmission. If you are planning on using a 4L60-4L70, 4L80/4L85 or T56 transmission, get out your zip wheel or plasma cutter now as you will need it. If you want to install any of the later mentioned transmissions without cutting the tunnel, you'll have to move the engine/transmission mating plane forward by 1.25", which neither the UMI mounts or your oil pan will allow you to do.
Cool deal, I have the transmission already mounted in place, I'm going to run the engine carbed, so I just ran a th350 already installed and mated up to engine which is where I noticed the clearance issues. So the Holley oil pan should provide the clearance I need for the steering linkage?
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Cool deal, I have the transmission already mounted in place, I'm going to run the engine carbed, so I just ran a th350 already installed and mated up to engine which is where I noticed the clearance issues. So the Holley oil pan should provide the clearance I need for the steering linkage?