Johnfire

Does anyone know what vehicles have a/c systems that don't use vacuum lines to control in a newer vehicle? I am going to redo my whole dash setup, and the jeep didn't originally have a/c so I want to do something decent, but it looks like most things are vacuum controlled.

Johnfire

This heat is really slowing me down, tough to work in the shop when it is over mid 90's in the garage, with heat index even higher. Stripped the jeep body of it heater unit wiring, and metal dash panel. The plan is to take a hvac unit out of something like a tahoe or if I need to a blazer, just need to find something with no vacuum lines. I plan on making a dash all from metal as I have seen some nice ones online and would prefer to have something like that. Right now everything else I do I am just guessing for exhaust and cat's since I can't find info on if the universal ones will work with the LM7. Same for my fuel line issue, till I find something that shows what hooks up to where on the motor it is just guesswork. I have been searching on here and other sites, and all I can find is that my engine might not have a returnline and may or may not have a built in pressure regulator. So I am trying to figure out what setup to use. I would like to use the stock jeep pump since it is said that it would work due to it puts out enough lpm's and around 100psi. Everything I find talks about engines that need a returnline. So just going to have to start guessing on thing, I did order some of the ls swap books since I can't seem to find the info I need.

dvdswan

I think you may have to find something from the late 90s for non-vacuum. obviously I could be wrong not knowing every vehicle but buy my 96 Nissan pickup and earlier 89 toy pickup have/had cables.

Johnfire

That is what I am hoping too, something 96 and up was what I was looking to find. I was going to look at maybe something out of an explorer or expedition but read some forums that chevy's have the best a/c systems out there other than higher end european cars. Kinda why I am leaning towards an tahoe or blazer. It is amazing how much space there is when you take everything out from under the dash and the dash too.

Johnfire

Picked up a shifter from a 96 GMC Jimmy, I just have to figure out the wiring on it. Also picked up a MAF sensor, hoping my next u-pull trip will go a little better, since I ended up grabbing the wrong cooling fan for my radiator. Also started working on the transmission crossmember today.

Johnfire

Finally was able to get around to making my transmission crossmember. I made it a little heavy, but hopefully it will give some added protection to the vital parts. I plan on putting a 3/16" plate under it later on as well. Just have to finish welding it and give it a coat of paint before installing it for good. Now I can set my axle, and get my drive shafts made up.











I made it out of some 2" square tube that I had laying around.

dvdswan

nice work.

Johnfire

Thank you. After spending a rain soaked day at the junk yard and taking lots of measurments and tearing apart a bunch of trucks, I have figured out that I can't find a HVAC unit that will fit and work that isn't 100% vacuum operated. So my thought is to get a GM unit from a truck, use the basic design, but make it so that it would fit my space by making the box myself and just re arrange a few things. Todays plan is to finish weld the crossmember, set the rear axle angle, tack that up and hopefully get my measurements for my driveshafts.

ctd450

iTrader: (1)

Why not use a factory Jeep A/C unit? It bolts to the dash and is pretty self-contained. I've parted out a few YJ's and the A/C units are pretty easy to separate from the rest of the vehicle.

Johnfire

I have seen those, but just don't like the $1000 price tag on them. Even looked at taking the unit out of an XJ but the entire unit is vacuum controlled. Other than alot of work, I am hoping to do the whole thing for less than half of the after market unit, plus be able to use run all the ductwork and have one set of controls. I have been looking at the different units out there and how they work. It looks pretty simple and I know how basic hvac work in general, the big part is figuring if anything needs to be done later for the pcm programming and to work out the wiring.

Johnfire

Ordered up some steel for the dash, a/c box, and bumpers today, also talked to BTR radiators and my radiator should be shipped out this week. Then took some time and set my rear axle angle. Tacked the spring pads and shock mounts up before welding them solid. Took some time and painted the axle and diff cover since we are supposed to get rain for the rest of the week. Pics will follow when I get a chance to take them.

Docked Wage

You don't need one. They are a bandaid for a bad setup.

My Drive shaft is 14.5 inches long (stock length) and I didn't need one because I made sure to set up my driveline angles correctly.

Mine is lifted 3.5" and I made sure to set the axle pinion angle and the transfer case output shaft angles the same. If you go into my build thread, I believe I even tell you the angle.

My Jeep sees 75 MPH regularly and I've never had a vibration, wobble or harmonic issue.

Docked Wage

You might want to figure out what the gear reduction in the S10 T-case is verses what was used in the 2004 Avalanche. If there is a big difference there could be transmission shifting issues when in 4wd low only.

Not that you will ever need 4wd low again (even with 4 wheel discs you might not be able to stop it at idle) but I remember this being one of the issues I ran into on my build when it came time to program the PCM.

Regards, Ken Wolkens

Johnfire

Thank you, I greatly appreciate the info Ken, I think I have read your thread a couple dozen times. I set my angle the best I could and if my frame being level is right. The angle came out to be about 8 degrees for both the rear axle, and the transfer case. Used an angle finder, on the front of the axle pinion, and the flat portion of the transfer case where the rear seal is.

I wasn't too worried on the transmission shifting in low. I had an 86 full sized blazer in the past and when I was in low, I was going less than 5mph just till I could get out of where I was stuck, then back to 4H. But I will double check the ratios on that anyway, will be good info to have.

Hoping to get my drive shaft measurements so they can be made up. I ended up taking a rear driveshaft from a ford ranger xlt to use as my front driveshaft since the jeep one I had was too short. Will post some pics soon. Then I will have them both cut to the proper length.

I am trying to figure out what measurements I need for my O2 sensor placement. Talked with the Cat manufacturer and they stated that the placement needs to be within a 1/2" of the stock location. My plan was to run a complete dual 2 1/2" exhaust keeping cats, and all sensors.

Docked Wage

I crawled under my jeep and found where I had written the angle on the housing and it's 5.0 degrees.

My reference points were the u-joint yoke flange on the rear end and the flat on the end of the output shaft.

Johnfire

Build is on hold while I take a couple weeks vacation(sort of). Still going to try and get some parts together while I am away. Also driveshafts are built, just need to get the right yoke, aparently there is a big difference in the XJ and YJ yoke for allowable angles. When I get back I hope to be abl to finish getting all I need for my HVAC so I can get rolling on the bodywork, and work on my exhaust as well.

Johnfire

Back from vacation and picked up some parts while I was at my parents. Got a set of full doors, another set of battery cables(wanting to run duals), two 31" tires since I only had 2 good ones, dipstick for my tranmission, temp mirror, tailgate, the two bars that I was missing for my roll cage and the cover for the starter

stacy moore

John did you finish the conversion?

Johnfire

Sorry I have been off for awhile, a unheated garage kinda put a major slowdown on working on the jeep and that I am still trying to get a job transfer.

Ok back into it, and I will get some more pictures up later today. What I had manage to do is work on my dash design, since I plan on building a whole new dash. I also put the body together but will be pulling that apart again shortly. I have sound absorber spray for the underside and the inside as well as bedliner to spray in it too. I wasn't happy with my first dash as the bends were not very crisp and I think that is due to trying to bend a 4' sheet of 14 gauge in a 4 foot brake. My next plan is to get a sheet of 16 gauge and a sheet of 18 gauge, and cut a test strip to bend, or find someone with a bigger brake. Right now I just want to make sure I get a few parts in that I should have and have them be the right ones. Over the winter I have mulled over going to a np241 but can't find any info on why I should other than people saying it. I was hoping to find torque rating info or gearing info. Also I need to change my accelerator pedal, since the one from the avalanche that came with the engine stick way too far out to work in the jeep. Thanks ahead of time everyone and thanks for all the help so far!

Johnfire

Hacking my way into the wiring harness, I plan on following just about everything that is listed on LtSwap instructions for making your own harness. One difference is I am going to have to leave everything for emissions. Also I have a fuse block out of I think an S10 that has all the basic relays and fuse holders for everything I should need, I hope. Still going to wire and label it all the same as the site lists.