5.3 into a 72 Chevelle
#21
Another thing I need help on is the A/C. It is very high on my list of things to make work. It still has all of the factory A/C stuff but the compressor seems to be locked up. The motor that I am getting has an A/C compressor on it that I hope to be able to use. Any advice on what I need to do to make it function properly.
#22
I have mine stock Chevelle one, I am only using the LS1 Compressor and some custom made lines. Else, everything is stock 71 Chevelle.
One issue is that some of the Compressors are Variable Displacement as compared to fixed Displacement compressors. Another tip would be to replace the Condenser for on rated at 134a if that is what you’re going to be using.
I have mine stock Chevelle one, I am only using the LS1 Compressor and some custom made lines. Else, everything is stock 71 Chevelle.
One issue is that some of the Compressors are Variable Displacement as compared to fixed Displacement compressors. Another tip would be to replace the Condenser for on rated at 134a if that is what you’re going to be using.
It works ok as long as I am moving, will blow at about 46-48 degree. But once I am stuck in traffic.. it doesn't cool that well. Starts blowing around 58 degree..
I suppose if I knew more, I could get it to work better as well as swapping some parts.
But it works good enough for me.
BC
One issue is that some of the Compressors are Variable Displacement as compared to fixed Displacement compressors. Another tip would be to replace the Condenser for on rated at 134a if that is what you’re going to be using.
I have mine stock Chevelle one, I am only using the LS1 Compressor and some custom made lines. Else, everything is stock 71 Chevelle.
One issue is that some of the Compressors are Variable Displacement as compared to fixed Displacement compressors. Another tip would be to replace the Condenser for on rated at 134a if that is what you’re going to be using.
It works ok as long as I am moving, will blow at about 46-48 degree. But once I am stuck in traffic.. it doesn't cool that well. Starts blowing around 58 degree..
I suppose if I knew more, I could get it to work better as well as swapping some parts.
But it works good enough for me.
BC
#23
If the AC compressor is locked up you may want to consider a sanden compressor mounted high passenger side. That eliminates the potential crossmember/mount interference issues too. Holley and Kwik make a bracket for it.
If you're going to keep you current setup, contact Classic Auto Air. They seem to be pretty good at updating AC systems. If you want to swap it out completely Vintage Air and Classic both have kits.
If you're going to keep you current setup, contact Classic Auto Air. They seem to be pretty good at updating AC systems. If you want to swap it out completely Vintage Air and Classic both have kits.
#24
I just recently got my factory AC running with the truck compressor. I modified the 2 truck hoses to work. I will be happy to provide the part #'s and show the mods. So far all works flawlessly, wife even complained about being too cold.
I used the OE F-body fans on a Northern Radiator for the LS swaps. Always runs right on the thermostat.
Yes you can modify your own harness, look at www.lt1swaps.com for a very detailed pinout chart.
I used the OE F-body fans on a Northern Radiator for the LS swaps. Always runs right on the thermostat.
Yes you can modify your own harness, look at www.lt1swaps.com for a very detailed pinout chart.
#25
I just recently got my factory AC running with the truck compressor. I modified the 2 truck hoses to work. I will be happy to provide the part #'s and show the mods. So far all works flawlessly, wife even complained about being too cold.
I used the OE F-body fans on a Northern Radiator for the LS swaps. Always runs right on the thermostat.
Yes you can modify your own harness, look at www.lt1swaps.com for a very detailed pinout chart.
I used the OE F-body fans on a Northern Radiator for the LS swaps. Always runs right on the thermostat.
Yes you can modify your own harness, look at www.lt1swaps.com for a very detailed pinout chart.
#26
I finally picked up the motor today. He said that it is from a 2002 Suburban. He has had it sitting in his shop since about 2004 and thinks it has about 40 K miles. I am wondering if I should tear it down and see if it needs honed or anything.
#28
Did you get the coils with the engine? How about AC compressor and starter? The coils on some of the truck engines are unique. According to MSD's coil engineers other coils do not play well with the PCM. Make sure to get the correct ones. I will get you the hose part #'s. Just remember that you either need to have your POA recalibrated for 134a or use a pressure switch setup. You will find the specifics listed on the site in other threads.
#29
Did you get the coils with the engine? How about AC compressor and starter? The coils on some of the truck engines are unique. According to MSD's coil engineers other coils do not play well with the PCM. Make sure to get the correct ones. I will get you the hose part #'s. Just remember that you either need to have your POA recalibrated for 134a or use a pressure switch setup. You will find the specifics listed on the site in other threads.
#30
On the right side of the motor there is a place for some type of sensor I guess. This is a round hole just above the oil pan at the back of the block and has a bolt beside it that appears that it would hold somthing in. Can anybody tell me what this is.
#33
I have read on here that one way to tell between a 4.8 and 5.3 is a tab on the head gasket. Mine said 4.8 but I pulled the head and it is a 5.3. I guess thats not a good way to tell. My fears are confirmed that it does need to be at least honed and maybe new rings. It got a little bit of rust in the cylinders where a valve was open.
#34
I believe the tab only indicates pre-2002 or manufacturer of head not the engine size. So long as the cylinder is not pitted, a hone would be fine. Use a plateau hone as the final hone if possible as it helps seat the lower tension rings in LS motors. Check the instructions included with the ring set.
#36
#37
I have read on here that one way to tell between a 4.8 and 5.3 is a tab on the head gasket. Mine said 4.8 but I pulled the head and it is a 5.3. I guess thats not a good way to tell. My fears are confirmed that it does need to be at least honed and maybe new rings. It got a little bit of rust in the cylinders where a valve was open.
#38
Someone mentioned windstar fans, that is what I'm using as well.
Plastic fuel line and fittings can be pulled from 90s Cadillacs pretty easily at a yard, probably for less than $10. Some have plastic lines in front connecting to metal lines underneath, but some have plastic the whole way back in segments of various sizes. Wish I had known that from the start. It's on plenty of other cars, but that's just one I recall having at least one large continuous piece.
#39
I wouldn't believe you would damage the pistons with wood. Did you clean them up yet? Any visual damage/impressions/fractures? If not, i'd say they are OK to use. If you decide to overbore to LS1, I have a nice matched set of pistons/rods and a pair of LS1 heads. PM me if interested.
The compression bump with 5.3 heads may be too much using the 4.8 pistons. Did you do the calculation? What camshaft are you going to use? You will want to decide this based on your compression ration or vise-versa. You can pickup a 6.0 camshaft pretty cheap or even a Z06 camshaft. I've used both.
You can do LS1 heads on a 5.3 with 4.8 pistons since they have a larger combustion chamber it keeps the c/r lower for pump gas. A 5.3 with 4.8 pistons, LS1 heads ported/polished and a Z06 camshaft makes 350HP+ and it runs on 87 octane.
The compression bump with 5.3 heads may be too much using the 4.8 pistons. Did you do the calculation? What camshaft are you going to use? You will want to decide this based on your compression ration or vise-versa. You can pickup a 6.0 camshaft pretty cheap or even a Z06 camshaft. I've used both.
You can do LS1 heads on a 5.3 with 4.8 pistons since they have a larger combustion chamber it keeps the c/r lower for pump gas. A 5.3 with 4.8 pistons, LS1 heads ported/polished and a Z06 camshaft makes 350HP+ and it runs on 87 octane.
#40
I wouldn't believe you would damage the pistons with wood. Did you clean them up yet? Any visual damage/impressions/fractures? If not, i'd say they are OK to use. If you decide to overbore to LS1, I have a nice matched set of pistons/rods and a pair of LS1 heads. PM me if interested.
The compression bump with 5.3 heads may be too much using the 4.8 pistons. Did you do the calculation? What camshaft are you going to use? You will want to decide this based on your compression ration or vise-versa. You can pickup a 6.0 camshaft pretty cheap or even a Z06 camshaft. I've used both.
You can do LS1 heads on a 5.3 with 4.8 pistons since they have a larger combustion chamber it keeps the c/r lower for pump gas. A 5.3 with 4.8 pistons, LS1 heads ported/polished and a Z06 camshaft makes 350HP+ and it runs on 87 octane.
The compression bump with 5.3 heads may be too much using the 4.8 pistons. Did you do the calculation? What camshaft are you going to use? You will want to decide this based on your compression ration or vise-versa. You can pickup a 6.0 camshaft pretty cheap or even a Z06 camshaft. I've used both.
You can do LS1 heads on a 5.3 with 4.8 pistons since they have a larger combustion chamber it keeps the c/r lower for pump gas. A 5.3 with 4.8 pistons, LS1 heads ported/polished and a Z06 camshaft makes 350HP+ and it runs on 87 octane.