5.3 into a 72 Chevelle
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
Looks like I am going to change directions a little. The 5.3 will need to be bored to make it right and by the time I do that and rebuild it I will have more in it than another motor cost. Ive got a 6.0 bought for 700 that will have a 60 day warranty. I will be using the cable operated throttle body and accessory's off of the 5.3. I feel like I am getting my moneys worth out of it and will wind up doing something with it.
It's good to see Chuck back in front of the camera. He just recently sold three of his Chevelles, the silver '70, green '70 wagon, and a black 69. They were listed over on chevelles.com.
Last edited by usc2001gc; Aug 6, 2013 at 07:57 PM. Reason: added info.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
The deal on the $700 6.0 fell through but I finally found an LQ9 I could afford. Ive got the car on jacks now rebuilding the front end. I got so much going on I dont know when I will get to install the motor. Trying to decide if I want to throw in a tranny while I am at it but really cant afford it right now. I am considering this cam Comp XR275HR-12 and wondering if you guys have any advice on that. Will be a car that I play with at the strip every now and then but I dont want somthing radical.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
Started on the harness yesterday, trying to figure out what i want to do for a fuse panel. Ive got buddy with a couple salvage camaors and am thinking about using one from one of them.
Family room, that's awesome. I'd bring my engine in mine if it wasn't for the kids toys.
Fuse block, i'd buy a 4-circuit panel with a couple relays. Do a search online and i'm sure you will find something very reasonably priced.
Fuse block, i'd buy a 4-circuit panel with a couple relays. Do a search online and i'm sure you will find something very reasonably priced.
On fuel line, you can order a roll of new steel line from Summit cheap and it's easy to bend without special tools. A bag of rubber lined clamps make quick work of it. From there I used compression fittings on the filter and also to splice the end of a GM fuel line with a flex line near the engine. If you can't find a line that will work it's a good cheap option.
My pcm is mounted inside the A/C box but since you want to keep a/c that doesn't help you much.
A 6 circuit fuse block can be picked up at Autozone:
I have the H3 pan and really wish the Holley pan was available back then. The fbody pan puts the engine too far into the firewall, especially if you want to keep a/c. You can look at Clay's car in person and see what I mean. Mine sits 2" or so further forward than that.
Not sure what the MSD guy was talking about with coils not swapping, there might be issues with the brackets hitting the fuel line on a car intake swap but otherwise the truck coils work fine with the PCM and everything.
Sounds like your big hurdle is going to be getting all the stock gauges to work. I didn't like the options available and went Dakota VHX which wasn't cheap but I consider it the best thing I've done to the car outside of the lsx swap.
My pcm is mounted inside the A/C box but since you want to keep a/c that doesn't help you much.
A 6 circuit fuse block can be picked up at Autozone:
I have the H3 pan and really wish the Holley pan was available back then. The fbody pan puts the engine too far into the firewall, especially if you want to keep a/c. You can look at Clay's car in person and see what I mean. Mine sits 2" or so further forward than that.
Not sure what the MSD guy was talking about with coils not swapping, there might be issues with the brackets hitting the fuel line on a car intake swap but otherwise the truck coils work fine with the PCM and everything.
Sounds like your big hurdle is going to be getting all the stock gauges to work. I didn't like the options available and went Dakota VHX which wasn't cheap but I consider it the best thing I've done to the car outside of the lsx swap.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
For now I guess I will keep the old TH350. I am thinking about going with a 700R4 when the TH350 craps out which Im sure will be soon after the engine swap. I am thinking I may be able to mount the ecm on the passenger side inner fender which will involve making my wires longer. I picked up that exact same fuse panel at Autozone the other day and decided to look around a little more. I wish I could find a fuse panel that has relays built in. I want to make this thing look good. Ive also got an fbody pan that I am going to try to use. I dont mind a little fab work on the cross memeber, but if it means I have to loose the AC I will have to rethink that idea.
Painless wiring 70217 is a very nice 7 circuit fuse block with 2 relays and circuit breaker, but it cost $100.
http://www.painlesswiring.com/PDFCatalog/index.php page 21.
Notch the f-body pan like street and performance does. But you'll also need to modify the front for the steering. Here's a link to show you mine: https://ls1tech.com/forums/16661747-post29.html
I attached a photo from Holley LSfest of a guy who modified the front like I need to do this winter.
I've seen the new Holley swap pan at Holley LSfest this past September and it's basically a cast version of the pan in the picture. The contours are different being cast though. But if you were to take the StreetandPerformance modified f-body pan and remove the bulges in the pan at the rail you would end up with the new Holley pan. It should solve any issues people have had with pan fitment and be the standard for any swap, IMO. Sorry I didn't take any pictures.
http://www.painlesswiring.com/PDFCatalog/index.php page 21.
Notch the f-body pan like street and performance does. But you'll also need to modify the front for the steering. Here's a link to show you mine: https://ls1tech.com/forums/16661747-post29.html
I attached a photo from Holley LSfest of a guy who modified the front like I need to do this winter.
I've seen the new Holley swap pan at Holley LSfest this past September and it's basically a cast version of the pan in the picture. The contours are different being cast though. But if you were to take the StreetandPerformance modified f-body pan and remove the bulges in the pan at the rail you would end up with the new Holley pan. It should solve any issues people have had with pan fitment and be the standard for any swap, IMO. Sorry I didn't take any pictures.
Last edited by fox12303; Oct 24, 2013 at 09:39 PM.
On fuel line, you can order a roll of new steel line from Summit cheap and it's easy to bend without special tools. A bag of rubber lined clamps make quick work of it. From there I used compression fittings on the filter and also to splice the end of a GM fuel line with a flex line near the engine. If you can't find a line that will work it's a good cheap option.
My pcm is mounted inside the A/C box but since you want to keep a/c that doesn't help you much.
I have the H3 pan and really wish the Holley pan was available back then. The fbody pan puts the engine too far into the firewall, especially if you want to keep a/c. You can look at Clay's car in person and see what I mean. Mine sits 2" or so further forward than that.
Not sure what the MSD guy was talking about with coils not swapping, there might be issues with the brackets hitting the fuel line on a car intake swap but otherwise the truck coils work fine with the PCM and everything.
Sounds like your big hurdle is going to be getting all the stock gauges to work. I didn't like the options available and went Dakota VHX which wasn't cheap but I consider it the best thing I've done to the car outside of the lsx swap.
My pcm is mounted inside the A/C box but since you want to keep a/c that doesn't help you much.
I have the H3 pan and really wish the Holley pan was available back then. The fbody pan puts the engine too far into the firewall, especially if you want to keep a/c. You can look at Clay's car in person and see what I mean. Mine sits 2" or so further forward than that.
Not sure what the MSD guy was talking about with coils not swapping, there might be issues with the brackets hitting the fuel line on a car intake swap but otherwise the truck coils work fine with the PCM and everything.
Sounds like your big hurdle is going to be getting all the stock gauges to work. I didn't like the options available and went Dakota VHX which wasn't cheap but I consider it the best thing I've done to the car outside of the lsx swap.
I would not mess with a 700r4, been there done that. If you upgrade from the th350, get a 4l60e. A 700r4 has no benefit over a 4l60e other than speedometer output, you get all the downsides but add on the mess of dealing with a TV cable.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
Relocating the battery is an idea I had not considered. I really dont see a downside to it at all.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
I may wind up going the the 4l60e route. I see that you can buy a kit to convert it to a mechanical speedo but it is about $500. The kit to hook up a 700r4 tv cable isnt cheap either though. I really want something with a lockup converter or I wouldn't be worried about the old th350.
Everyone has a different budget which sometimes dictates their choices. While the 700R4 may be cheaper to install, I would also recommend the 4L60e series tranny. Basically because the 700R4 was never built for the LS motor. The 700 will bolt to the LS but it will do so with only 5 bolts. I'm currently swapping my 700R4 for the 4L70e and a EZ-tcu controller using the DakotaDigital speedo conversion. The electronic speedo conversion is half the price as the tailhousing conversion but I've read some mixed reviews about them.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
I scored a good barley used bullet cam and comp push-rods along with some new PAC springs.
duration @ .050 = 224/224
valve lift with 1.7 ratio = .560/.560
lobe separation = 112
intake centerline = 109
duration @ .050 = 224/224
valve lift with 1.7 ratio = .560/.560
lobe separation = 112
intake centerline = 109
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
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From: SE Oklahoma
Santa is coming early year. I just ordered the rest of the odds and ends I need to make the swap happen. Hope to have it completed by the end of the year. I will be getting a long weekend for thanksgiving and have a week of vacation left to burn before the end of the year.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: SE Oklahoma
Man this cost more than I thought it was going to. The motor itself wasn't bad but all of the odds and ends are eating me up. I decided to go ahead and do the tranny right from the get go and it has blown my budget to bits. I will say I am trying my best not to cut any corners or do anything I will have to redo in the future. I will be without a speedo for a while though.