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wireing an LS alternator in a 1962 impala

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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 04:44 PM
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Default wireing an LS alternator in a 1962 impala

I know which of the 4 holes to put the 1 wire in (3rd hole from center of engine) What I need to know is this ( I have been told and read where I need a resistior in this wire.) I did this and now still have 12 volts @ the end of wire. I would think that I should be seeing 5-6 volts with key on. Haven't checked with engine running. This is an alternator for a 2000 truck. Thanks---Lee
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Old Aug 18, 2013 | 06:59 PM
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With the key off, you should have 0v at the "L" terminal (if that's where you are) of the alternator. If you're checking the harness and not the alternator, you should have battery voltage with the key on and 0v in off. After cranking, that alternator pin will start producing to 12v which cancels out current flow and turns off the lamp.
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
With the key off, you should have 0v at the "L" terminal (if that's where you are) of the alternator. If you're checking the harness and not the alternator, you should have battery voltage with the key on and 0v in off. After cranking, that alternator pin will start producing to 12v which cancels out current flow and turns off the lamp.
Thanks for your reply--just to be clear--I have run a seperate 12v wire from the fuse box to pin L on the alt. plug with the recommended resistor. With key on I am seeing 12v @ pin L----I would think the resistor was supposed to drop it to 5-6v. Am I wrong or just a non-electrical brain. Thanks---Lee
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 12:40 PM
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Best way to fix this I have found is to have a self exciting regulator installed. True 1 wire hook up don't have to mess with the resistor.

Tim
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Old Aug 19, 2013 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Lee Thompson
Thanks for your reply--just to be clear--I have run a seperate 12v wire from the fuse box to pin L on the alt. plug with the recommended resistor. With key on I am seeing 12v @ pin L----I would think the resistor was supposed to drop it to 5-6v. Am I wrong or just a non-electrical brain. Thanks---Lee
I'm pretty sure you'll see 12v until current actually flows. Checking with a VOM is not gonna cause any current flow as their internals are > 2 megaohms. Think of it like a water hose with a restrictor in it. When there's no flow through the hose, the pressure is the same on both sides of the restrictor, but when you start the water flowing the downstream pressure will be less...
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 05:13 AM
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That's how I see it too. Resistance is a function of voltage and current(flow). Most wiring diagrams show a two wire hook up but you are only talking about the one wire with the resistor.

Diagram: https://ls1tech.com/forums/13759335-post34.html
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 10:56 PM
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On a side note. What exhaust are you going to run? I'm doing a 62 also and was just curious. Thanks!
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Chadsin
On a side note. What exhaust are you going to run? I'm doing a 62 also and was just curious. Thanks!
ls1 s-10 headers work pretty nice. That's what I used and have no complaints.
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
I'm pretty sure you'll see 12v until current actually flows. Checking with a VOM is not gonna cause any current flow as their internals are > 2 megaohms. Think of it like a water hose with a restrictor in it. When there's no flow through the hose, the pressure is the same on both sides of the restrictor, but when you start the water flowing the downstream pressure will be less...
Thank you--Lee
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Chadsin
On a side note. What exhaust are you going to run? I'm doing a 62 also and was just curious. Thanks!
I bought new LS3 exhaust manifolds off E-Bay ($30). Reason I went with those is because it appeared they would work with my 4 speed clutch linkage. Have the engine in the engine bay and had to notch the frame slightly---next week I am going to fab. 2.5 in. mandrel bend ells to my current exhaust..---Lee
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