The idea of using inverted custom ramps to extend the garage floor is the best way to go. Looks like a concrete drive so if you're worried the ramps might slide then drill a 1/2" hole into the concrete that you can drop a pin down into and fix the pin the the outer end of the ramps so they lock into place. When you're done the project a bit of cement mixed up will fill the holes.

 

Drilling hole into the driveway and using "pins" would be a great idea.

However his house looks pretty new, and driveway looks pretty nice. Wasn't sure if drilling holes was an option on the table for the OP to consider.

 

Also, in earlier posts you were talking about length of car, wheel base is shorter. you can roll you rear wheels to the edge of the garage and I bet you have a better part of 20" that will be hanging out the garage. Add the ramp idea I bet you have 4' hanging out the garage. that's more then enough room.

 

Keep in mind, when you have something on the engine hoist, MOST of the load is on the front wheels. Because of that, the driveway slope wouldn't worry me much. Provided that you always keep the front wheels of the hoist in the garage, it won't run away on you.

The ramps would work nice, except that most cars need to be on jackstands or a hoist to fit the legs of the engine hoist underneath. So, if you had the car facing into the garage you would be up and down off of jackstands constantly.

 

I'm not sure if I could maneuver the hoist with the car on the ground. I'll have to have a look after I buy a car...and a hoist

Right now, I'm thinking the ramp idea would be best. The house was built in '84. The driveway is in nice shape. I could pin the ramps if necessary but I don't think it will be.

The garage gets small awful fast. I have my Ulysses in there right now. It's going to be real tight with car, a motorcycle, a hoist and more than likely, an engine on a stand. But I'll figure it out

Tipsy

 

why not just come in from the side with the hoist?

 

Not sure that's possible but it's something to consider. For one thing, there's not going to be a lot of room to the side of the car. And the engine/trans would have to be raised petty high to clear the fender.

Also, with the car on the ground, the hoist will have to move forward quite a bit when removing/installing the engine, since the trans will be attached. Seems to me the front tire will inhibit movement of the hoist. Raising the tire off the ground means the hoist will have to be raised that much higher.

Not sure it's doable but it's something to look into one all of the pieces are in place.

Tipsy

 

remove the trans first and problem solved. not the most efficient way to do it but it does work

 

I don’t think anyone has said to use a A frame on wheels with a hoist. Winch/cable to keep car from rolling back. Pull engine and trans separate. You can do it.

 

get a small winch from harbor freight and anchor it in the front of the garage to winch the engineless car back into the garage. $100 investment = your back is saved.

 

 

my bad lol

 

If you haven't worked on a bmw before this isn't as "easy" as you think. While it's possible, I would much rather spend time pulling it all out as one unit then separate. There is just no freakin room, and you have to pull apart half the motor to do this.

I will make a suggestion, If you have a hoist attack it like this.

Unbolt the trans brace and drive shaft and support it. Unhook all the hoses, wire ect up front. NOW, unbolt your sway bar and struts from the strut housing......hang with me here.

Block the rear wheel, support the front subframe and hook the hoist to the body of the car, unbolt your front subframe, should be 4 bolts and lift.

You can basically lift the front of your car off the motor.tranny. and roll it out.

I have seen this done several times on e30/36 cars. the combo of engine and tranny coming out the top is a REAL pain because its SO long.

This is just another option to think about.

 

I haven't worked on a BMW previously. In fact, I've never owned one.

But I've been reading a lot of LSx/E36 build threads and while I can't remember precisely where I read it, I believe one of the write-ups mentioned a Eureka! moment when he discovered it was easier to lower the subframe to install the LSx engine. Sounds like a similar solution.

Tipsy

 

You can't do it. Just give it up.
Sale the truck (it don't fit anyway), buy a mini van have tons of kids & live happily ever after. Lol

 

Well, I've never owned one. my Ex did.. hated it.. also been reading about BMW Drivers

- Are BMW drivers the most aggressive and rudest out there !
- BMW Drivers are the Biggest Jerks on the Road !
- Two research studies find that BMW drivers are the worst behaved on the road. !
- BMW drivers were far less likely to stop for a pedestrian who had just entered a crosswalk!

and the list goes on and on .... Hey. .just saying what I've read ..... ! LOL

BC

 

I have worked on BMW's. quite a few. And I've done it the way I said. Like I said it isn't the most efficient way to do it but it can be done.

As long as it doesn't involve pulling the intakes on a v12 740/50, nothing is all that bad with the older models. I haven't worked on any since 2000ish

 

I appreciate your input but pulling the trans separately will only make things more difficult, given my work space. I'll have to get the car on jack stands, high enough to work under the car and remove the trans. Then, without a trans installed, I'd have to get the car back on its wheels so I can roll it back far enough to work in front of the car and remove the engine.

If my work space were large enough to get the car up on four jack stands and simply leave it there, pulling the trans might be viable. But I think in my situation, it will only complicate things.

To be honest, pulling the BMW engine isn't my main concern. It's swinging the LSx/T56 several times while I get things worked out. I don't know if this will pan out but depending upon the donor car and the condition of its drivetrain; there is a shop in town that specializes in German cars. Perhaps, I can have the shop remove the engine in exchange for keeping the engine (and maybe throwing in a few bucks) and bringing the car back to my house on their flat bed. From what I've been told, the stock drivetrain isn't worth too much, unless it's an "M." Just a thought.

Tipsy

 

What is behind the back wall of the garage? Maybe you can reallocate some square footage.

I don't think backing a few feet out of the garage to give room up front is going to be as big of a deal as you're making it. Keep your brake systems functional, make good use of wheel stops, and give yourself just the room you need - I think you'll be fine. If you pull the hood, you will not need that much room in front of the car to rotate the hoist and swing the engine/trans combo to the side. Also you can pull one of the wheels off (put a jackstand behind it somewhere to support the car) and give a path for the hoist legs to move under the car as you move it. Once you have the engine out, get some neighbors/friends to help push it back into the garage.

I have seen way more work done in way less space.

 

Hey guys...... This is SIMPLE to solve..

Really..

a pair of 12 ft 2x12 boards, the car ramps, a 4 ft 4x4 and some long bolts about 7 or 8 inches.

cut the 4x4 to make a back stop using the bolts to go through the 2x12 and 4x4.

then, using the cars own weight for a pressure point, roll the car up ONTO the 2x12, or jack the car up and position the board under the tires inside the shop, and on the ramps outside the shop.

when he is done working for the day, slide the $30 walmart 1.5 ton jack under the rear axle, , jack it up til the tires clear the boards, then calmly walk out, and slide the boards under the car, and set the ramps right behind the car at the garage door entry way.

if you need to move the car back further, using the $100 ac powered winch, just put it in reverse and let it roll out slowly and under control.

as for an anchor, go THROUGH a 4x4 on the back wall with a large eyelet that you can actually BOLT down to the 4x4 and leave room to secure a chain to. It wont take a BUNCH of hits, but the 4x4 should stop the car rolling if it gets away from you. Might bust some drywall, but that is a cheap price to pay for not destroying a neighbor's car or house.

and another point to consider, some one mentioned a tire between your truck and the car for a backstop. any decent welding shop can make you a slide in assembly that can stop the car and not mess up your hitch. just 2x2 coming out of the hitch, to an adjustable cross bar and stop plate..

Lots of options for your small area.

hell, I put my LS into my S-10 using an oak tree, a 4 inch strap from a flatbed big truck, and an 8000 lb come-along, and a $32 Chinese load leveler from ebay.

you have it made in the shade man!!