1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon
01-02-2014, 12:23 PM
#41
And then there is the rear suspension.
I've had a set of these sitting around for years: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-...Jack,3386.html and finally got around to putting them out back in something.
The hole for the nut was opened up to 1.75" to allow it to slide up and in, the top of the nut sits flush with the 1/8" thick (4.25" OD) plates/washers that I cut. The idea here is to ensure that the nut remains in compression so as to not pull out of the old spring perch locator. The top plate and washer are there to stabilize the nut and support any transferred load. The washer is also going to provide a clean/flat surface for a second project I am working on to tandem onto this work.
Other than that it is all burned in.
I am going to have new top hats cut for the Vibe springs which are almost 6.5" in OD at the top. The old top hats will be modified to serve as new lower spring perches at the axle since they are larger there too.
And the best part? If I don't like it I can just go back to running regular springs... no harm, no foul.
I've had a set of these sitting around for years: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-...Jack,3386.html and finally got around to putting them out back in something.
The hole for the nut was opened up to 1.75" to allow it to slide up and in, the top of the nut sits flush with the 1/8" thick (4.25" OD) plates/washers that I cut. The idea here is to ensure that the nut remains in compression so as to not pull out of the old spring perch locator. The top plate and washer are there to stabilize the nut and support any transferred load. The washer is also going to provide a clean/flat surface for a second project I am working on to tandem onto this work.
Other than that it is all burned in.
I am going to have new top hats cut for the Vibe springs which are almost 6.5" in OD at the top. The old top hats will be modified to serve as new lower spring perches at the axle since they are larger there too.
And the best part? If I don't like it I can just go back to running regular springs... no harm, no foul.
01-03-2014, 09:02 PM
#44
And then it was time to make a harness bar.
The reason for this is most every car built before 1990-something doesn't have provisions for today's modern car seats (ie. tether straps and anchors); and who knows the wagon might even end up being auto-crossed from time to time.
It is integrated into the weight jacks and doubles as a chassis stiffening brace (bolted into the wheel tubs).
The reason for this is most every car built before 1990-something doesn't have provisions for today's modern car seats (ie. tether straps and anchors); and who knows the wagon might even end up being auto-crossed from time to time.
It is integrated into the weight jacks and doubles as a chassis stiffening brace (bolted into the wheel tubs).
01-04-2014, 10:13 PM
#47
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I've been looking for a g body 4 door. With 2 kids and only 1 vehicle that will fit all of us I'm needing a second family vehicle. They look like the perfect swap for family and fun lol. I have the drive train already just waiting to find a good deal on a clean car. Be sweet with a turbo on it also.
01-05-2014, 05:52 AM
#49
Im running the Qa1 coil overs up front 450 lb. I knew I was going to run the heavier Holley Hi Ram and possibly a turbo or two so I went heavier. I'm glad I did the coil over set up and may also convert the rear. Spohn makes a rear conversion using the Qa1 shocks and I think there springs. The car rides great and handles much better. I'm running 8.8 rear with disc brakes, car stops great also.
01-05-2014, 09:47 AM
#50
I've been looking for a g body 4 door. With 2 kids and only 1 vehicle that will fit all of us I'm needing a second family vehicle. They look like the perfect swap for family and fun lol. I have the drive train already just waiting to find a good deal on a clean car. Be sweet with a turbo on it also.
Yes. It can easily clear a 28" diameter tire, and has 13" of section width clearance (and this is without having had rolled the fender lips yet). I'd like to run a minimum of a 300-series tire back there.
01-05-2014, 10:11 AM
#51
Ah, I finally looked closer at the pics and can see you straightened out the frame and took out the curve at the back and then boxed it in. Good idea I was thinking of the same thing and that way you don't have to move the fuel tank and can keep the spare tire well instead of taking it out and moving the tank to the middle and moving the complete frame rail in all the way back.
01-19-2014, 09:57 PM
#53
Fired in some bucket seat mounts (came from Mike's Montes - good quality parts) and POR-15'd the floor.
Rant time:
POR-15 has to be the biggest disappointment I have ever had... one of my cans had the pigment separating from the epoxy(?)/solvent and the paint laid down poorly; and despite following the directions to the letter (bought all the cleaners and prep, and scrubbed it all down with a HD Scotchbrite pad) I still got some fisheyes.
Rant time:
POR-15 has to be the biggest disappointment I have ever had... one of my cans had the pigment separating from the epoxy(?)/solvent and the paint laid down poorly; and despite following the directions to the letter (bought all the cleaners and prep, and scrubbed it all down with a HD Scotchbrite pad) I still got some fisheyes.
01-27-2014, 07:49 AM
#54
Well it is official... the wagon is "rust-free"! Or at least as rust-free as I care to make it; and it only took 6 months to get there. :roll: Finally seam sealed and under-coated the last of my repairs under the car and now its time to prep this thing to get a heart transplant.
Last night (while waiting for some paint to dry) I started pulling all of the previous owners wiring out of the car (gauges and sending units, power seat, electric cut-outs, electric fans, etc) so that I could identify what circuits were in the car, and more importantly what was missing or had been molested. All and all the car is pretty sound for having a 34 year old electrical system, and in its life only a few circuits were screwed with - still working on identifying some of the unknown wires. The true advantage of working on a car of this vintage with very few options is that it is easy to get your head around what is required and where... plus it cuts down on the need to delete or integrate systems (especially when I pull the wiring out of the Camaro for the LS swap).
My next major undertaking will be removing and adapting the steering column (with delay wipers and cruise control stalk) from my 87 Monte Carlo to this ancient beast. I am thinking that I will need to make a bespoke harness to the cruise control and wiper assembly vs. trying to repin the 1980 wiring. Good thing that I have a complete donor car to rape for parts
Last night (while waiting for some paint to dry) I started pulling all of the previous owners wiring out of the car (gauges and sending units, power seat, electric cut-outs, electric fans, etc) so that I could identify what circuits were in the car, and more importantly what was missing or had been molested. All and all the car is pretty sound for having a 34 year old electrical system, and in its life only a few circuits were screwed with - still working on identifying some of the unknown wires. The true advantage of working on a car of this vintage with very few options is that it is easy to get your head around what is required and where... plus it cuts down on the need to delete or integrate systems (especially when I pull the wiring out of the Camaro for the LS swap).
My next major undertaking will be removing and adapting the steering column (with delay wipers and cruise control stalk) from my 87 Monte Carlo to this ancient beast. I am thinking that I will need to make a bespoke harness to the cruise control and wiper assembly vs. trying to repin the 1980 wiring. Good thing that I have a complete donor car to rape for parts
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; 01-27-2014 at 09:35 AM.
02-01-2014, 09:43 PM
#55
Ran State-side (again) this morning to pick up a pretty large order of parts: more stereo equipment, more sound deadener, more engine crap (fittings, air filter, 4 aluminum intake piping, 3" v-bands, etc), transmission cooler, LS1 front brake conversion parts, and some dress-up parts.
02-02-2014, 08:32 PM
#56
It has taken me nearly two days to methodically cover the interior with sound deadener (GT Mat "Onyx" in the front and Eastwood brand in the back; The GT Mat "Onyx" is far superior in both quality and ease of installation IMO). I still have a few details to go over as well as the inside of the doors and the tailgate.
Oh, and here is the new spare tire hatch cover (I still need to laminate two pieces of 1/2" MDF together - that is the top curing its Tremclad top coat)... I have big plans for this thing.
Oh, and here is the new spare tire hatch cover (I still need to laminate two pieces of 1/2" MDF together - that is the top curing its Tremclad top coat)... I have big plans for this thing.
02-09-2014, 08:13 PM
#57
Finally got the damn thing back together for the last time... and this was on top of wiring the whole car for sound. A picture is worth a thousand words, see attached.
We still need to upholster the hatch before final installation. And if I am right I have left just enough room for a 10lb bottle of button induced fun (which is also why there is a power and ground distribution block back there); please don't tell my wife. :rofl:
I've also cut my templates and started fabbing up the "cubbie hole" MDF mounts for the rear woofers. Making surprisingly good time on this despite that I hate working with wood (*cough*MDF*cough*). I should have pics soon for those who are interested.
We still need to upholster the hatch before final installation. And if I am right I have left just enough room for a 10lb bottle of button induced fun (which is also why there is a power and ground distribution block back there); please don't tell my wife. :rofl:
I've also cut my templates and started fabbing up the "cubbie hole" MDF mounts for the rear woofers. Making surprisingly good time on this despite that I hate working with wood (*cough*MDF*cough*). I should have pics soon for those who are interested.
02-10-2014, 05:27 PM
#59
When you are on a roll you go with it... Tada! cubbie hole speaker plates.
They are made out of 5/8" MDF and came out rather well all things considered. They are getting prep'd for paint and upholstery as I write this; and obviously the interior panels will need some cutting to fit.
I am thinking that, other than some sound deadener on the inside of the quarter panels, I may try my hand at using some polyfill (aka synthetic pillow stuffing) to tighten up the sound. The passive cross-overs for the component speakers will be mounted on the backside of the cubbie speaker plates.
They are made out of 5/8" MDF and came out rather well all things considered. They are getting prep'd for paint and upholstery as I write this; and obviously the interior panels will need some cutting to fit.
I am thinking that, other than some sound deadener on the inside of the quarter panels, I may try my hand at using some polyfill (aka synthetic pillow stuffing) to tighten up the sound. The passive cross-overs for the component speakers will be mounted on the backside of the cubbie speaker plates.
02-10-2014, 05:33 PM
#60
The mini-tubs are actually right at the same height as the stock wheel wells at the pinch-weld on the quarter panel; they just look tall because they don't taper downward any longer. Oddly enough this car will sit higher than it did when it first arrived so we can fit bigger meats.
Cheers!