operatorfailure

iTrader: (3)

If you haven't cut up the CPP mounts I would call them. They came out with sheet metal mounts recently and offered to swap the tubular ones for the sheet metal ones that offer more clearance. I would have done it but I had already chopped mine up.

Hart_Rod

iTrader: (3)

http://dougthorleyheaders.com/produc...productID/1029

$650 and if you tell them your from the 67-72Chevytruck board they will give you 10% off.

Rob

operatorfailure

iTrader: (3)

Not saying they aren't worth it, just not for a budget build.

Hart_Rod

iTrader: (3)

Summit has them for $616 for 1 5/8" and $609 for 1 7/8".

Hart_Rod

iTrader: (3)

Totally understand. Was just suggesting these because you don't have to modify anything.

operatorfailure

iTrader: (3)

Still more than I paid for my entire 5.3/4l60e. Haha. No more arguing from me, I look forward to seeing this slick suburban swapped!

FLYNAVY30

iTrader: (1)

did you have any problems with the headers interfering with the shift linkage on the trans? Their web site says "no column shift" in the notes on the headers...so while the headers may solve one problem, they may create another (besides the price)

I did see your post on the other site about the Lokar kit....you wouldnt happen to have the part number for that would you?

Hart_Rod

iTrader: (3)

You have to use the Lokar or similar kit. Here's what I used:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lo...1800/overview/

Ask for the kit with the longer rod (same price). You may not need it, but it's easier to cutoff than add to, .

FLYNAVY30

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a ton! Those pics are hugely helpful

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Sub'd. Sweet suburban man. Can wait to hear how you like the swap.

I have a 72 blazer that I did a TPI swap on but I have a strong desire to sell it off and buy a suburban, put a 6.0/4L80E in.

Hart_Rod

iTrader: (3)

Glad I could help. Let me know if you need any more pics.

FLYNAVY30

iTrader: (1)

Ended up going with the Thorley headers...I decided that the fit over the mounts, combined with the fact that the long tubes place the collectors low in a place where it will be easier to start fabbing up ehxuast was worth the extra $200 over the Holley manifolds.

Well, all that and the fact that Im trying to get this all done before I deploy 10 DEC.....time=money

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Those headers will look sweet on your truck!

I hope you get to drive this a few times before you deploy.

FLYNAVY30

iTrader: (1)

So.....a little Veterans Day update......

I started running the fuel system. Because the tank was already plummed for a return style set up, Im going to run a 6-AN pressure line to a Mallory pump, all the way up to a Mallory regulator on the fire wall, into a Holley 650 double pumper. The return line is 4-AN from the regulator all the way back to the tank. I have all the braided line, pump, regulator, etc, but as I started plumbing things, I realized my lack of knowledge of AN fittings had left me short a few pieces. Summit Racing should have the problem rectified by Wednesday.......


I also started mocking up the Entropy radiator....amazing piece! It has an internal cooler for the transmission in addition to a fitting for the LS heads steam pipe, both inlet and outlet on the passenger side for the LS water pump, and a one wire sender for the factory water temp gage. The only issue was the bracket on the driver side had to be trimmed back a bit, and the rubber mounts on the bottom had to be shaved down a bit to ensure it sat flush with the top. Outside of that, everything bolted right up. As far as the LS swap into a C10/C20, you couldnt ask for an easier swap. This thing is probably a bit on the overkill side, but this truck is my daily driver, so I figured there is no such thing as overkill when it comes to cooling. That and at $700 for the radiator with fans, it seems like money well spent.





Lastly, a big thank you to all the guys out there keeping us safe today....I know there is many an unfinished project sitting in a dark garage anxiously awaiting your return and Im quite thankful for the opportunity to spend the day off working on mine. Be safe

FLYNAVY30

iTrader: (1)

Mid week update....not a whole lot of progress, but progress none the less......


Got the fuel pump mounted to the outside of the spare tire cut out. Because of the springs, frame rail, and exhaust routing, this is as close as I could get it to the tank. Its within 12 inches so hopefully I should be ok.


Went to install the new starter and found this......it would be sweet if they told you this crap when you ordered it!!!!!


Started plumbing the power steering system and go the reservoir mounted and attached to the pump. Unfortunately the factory lines arent routed in a manner in which they're even remotely close to the new pump so Ill probably have to disconnect them at the steering box and fab up some new ones.


Also started running some wires....I got the harness from the radiator and fan controller mounted and loosely routed and routed the harness for the MSD box although I need to wait until the vintage A/C system comes in before I determine a final mounting place for the MSD box as that will largely be dependent upon how much real estate the new heater core takes up on the firewall.


Lastly, can anyone help out with a thermostat for this damn water pump?? This is the factory F-Body and GTO water pump, as recommended by Holley with the accessory bracket kit, but Ive ordered two different thermostat housings now that are both supposed to work with the 2002 Camaro SS, and both were too wide for the opening. Any thoughts??



One more thing....does anyone know the fitting size for your average Holley carb fuel divider? I need to find an NPT to AN fitting and I assumed the inlet was 3/8, but that is too big....any help is much appreciated!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

WTF???!!! Why would it matter if the starter is on a carbureted engine or not? For all my years messing with this stuff I can think of zero reasons that would matter. My next question would be why would / could it fail and how can they tell?


Try a 2004 Corvette or 2004 - 2006 GTO. They will have a thermostat that is separate from the housing which is what you need. It's actually two parts, the stat itself (with an o ring) and a housing. You should have a machined stepped grove on the water pump for the o ring.

FLYNAVY30

iTrader: (1)

yea....no idea on the starter. Ill look into the thermostat/housing....thanks for the tip!

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I agree on the starter, that's the most absurd thing I have ever seen put on a new part! And on the thermostat, you don't have a 2002 Camaro waterpump you can tell by the pulley. Somewhere around 2004 they changed the thermostat to a 2 piece design, thermostat and separate housing, and if you buy a new pump, you get the updated type. At least if you get it at the stealership anyway, so as gofast said, get the newer one. Trucks also changed so it doesn't have to be a car thermostat.

SSZ

I wonder if they put that tag on the starter due to a risk of kickback which could actually break the block.
BUT, in the 25 plus years of working on cars and numerous types of equipment in general, the only vehicle i have seen this happen on was a Jimmy with a 4.3L Vortec. Two blocks broken from kickback. And, go figure, they were fuel injected. I am pretty sure there was actually a bulletin from GM for the problem.
That is Effed up.

Your build is looking great man. Keep it up. Nice beer can too. Yum Yum.

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

May I ask where this starter came from...???