Updated: L76 VVT going in my jet boat IT RUNS!
#61
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After I cleaned the boat up a bit, I started getting the exhaust ready. Luckily, my original through hull fitting was a 4" bell style necked down to 3.5." The old tip was cut pretty close to the transom fitting, so I couldn't reuse it. I was going to just weld the 4" straight to the hull, but I really didn't have room to put the boxes on the transom due to the supports for the swim deck. I bought some of these instead.
I figured since they have a flapper I should be good to go. They'll probably be a bit louder than the box on the back, but they do look better.
I cut the other hole out on the other side as close as I could get. I think I did ok. A 4" hole saw on aluminum is such a pain...
I figured since they have a flapper I should be good to go. They'll probably be a bit louder than the box on the back, but they do look better.
I cut the other hole out on the other side as close as I could get. I think I did ok. A 4" hole saw on aluminum is such a pain...
#62
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So, I put the boat back on the trailer and got my engine back in. I forgot to mention earlier, but the Hamilton, Kodiak and MarinePower multi stage pumps have a 5 degree shaft angle, so thats the angle I welded the motor mounts in. The feet have enough adjustment in them to get the final angle down.
The Eddie Marine risers come down at about a 20 degree angle, so add that to the 5 the motor is offset and its 25. So, a 65 degree bend got me straight down. I took the 10 degree setback the transom sits at and made a 80 degree bend. Then, I set them in place and measured the distance. Im no machinist, but heres the mockup and its pretty darn close.
After verifying they would work, I welded them up. I didn't like a few of my welds, plus I plan on painting them, so I started grinding them smooth. It will look pretty snappy when I'm done.
Thats where I'm at now. Pretty close to turning the key. I had a bunch to do my last time off, so bear with me for more progress. We've been super busy getting my daughters room moved and getting a nursery setup for my next one.
The Eddie Marine risers come down at about a 20 degree angle, so add that to the 5 the motor is offset and its 25. So, a 65 degree bend got me straight down. I took the 10 degree setback the transom sits at and made a 80 degree bend. Then, I set them in place and measured the distance. Im no machinist, but heres the mockup and its pretty darn close.
After verifying they would work, I welded them up. I didn't like a few of my welds, plus I plan on painting them, so I started grinding them smooth. It will look pretty snappy when I'm done.
Thats where I'm at now. Pretty close to turning the key. I had a bunch to do my last time off, so bear with me for more progress. We've been super busy getting my daughters room moved and getting a nursery setup for my next one.
#73
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Sweet, thanks. It just seems so wrong that a cam/springs and a good tune can put down almost 500 on a dyno... Gotta love these LS motors. Maybe someday Ill forge and stroke it. Then it should be even more ridiculous.
#76
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Time for another update:
I got my nice blue exhaust hose in the mail and cleaned up the S pipes a bit more. They still need a good polishing, but I didn't care for right now. They fit so good its ridiculous (yes, I'm proud). That hose is a pain in the rear to install thats for sure. A few beers and then I remembered the WD-40 trick. It sure helps the silicone slide better. I added 4 little 1" slightly raised welds around each of the S pipe ends to help the hose grip and help keep it from popping off. I think it worked, but now its a pain. My clamps hold everything together nice and tight. Luckily I had enough length of exhaust hose left I was able to make an extra coupler a bit longer. It helps make up the slack for the higher exhaust riser with the o2 sensor installed. Once the tune is known good and I remove the spacer Ill put the shorter hose section back on. For now, you can hardly notice it though. Eventually if I have problems with the hoses falling off, Ill add 2 of the cheaper Trident style bump couplers on the vertical section. Ill probably be OK though.
In recommendation from the guys at Riddle, I put a constant drain on each manifold end. It is small, but the constant flow of water through the tubing will (should) keep it from clogging up and also keep it self draining when shut down. I plumbed them into the S pipe, you can see it in the pics and if you look closely in the video. I have a few water leaks on the plugs on the manifolds, but thats an easy fix. I didn't want to crack the manifolds from overtightening.
I also had a buddy make me a sticker...just because
All and all I'm pretty close. I need to pull the engine one more time to put the driveshaft back in. Then Ill hook up the hoses to the heater core and the jet. After that, Ill take care of the wiring harness and secure any loose ends. I'm also having the doghouse cut and bent for me while Im at work. It should be ready for welding when I get back. We should also have some soft water around too.
I got my nice blue exhaust hose in the mail and cleaned up the S pipes a bit more. They still need a good polishing, but I didn't care for right now. They fit so good its ridiculous (yes, I'm proud). That hose is a pain in the rear to install thats for sure. A few beers and then I remembered the WD-40 trick. It sure helps the silicone slide better. I added 4 little 1" slightly raised welds around each of the S pipe ends to help the hose grip and help keep it from popping off. I think it worked, but now its a pain. My clamps hold everything together nice and tight. Luckily I had enough length of exhaust hose left I was able to make an extra coupler a bit longer. It helps make up the slack for the higher exhaust riser with the o2 sensor installed. Once the tune is known good and I remove the spacer Ill put the shorter hose section back on. For now, you can hardly notice it though. Eventually if I have problems with the hoses falling off, Ill add 2 of the cheaper Trident style bump couplers on the vertical section. Ill probably be OK though.
In recommendation from the guys at Riddle, I put a constant drain on each manifold end. It is small, but the constant flow of water through the tubing will (should) keep it from clogging up and also keep it self draining when shut down. I plumbed them into the S pipe, you can see it in the pics and if you look closely in the video. I have a few water leaks on the plugs on the manifolds, but thats an easy fix. I didn't want to crack the manifolds from overtightening.
I also had a buddy make me a sticker...just because
All and all I'm pretty close. I need to pull the engine one more time to put the driveshaft back in. Then Ill hook up the hoses to the heater core and the jet. After that, Ill take care of the wiring harness and secure any loose ends. I'm also having the doghouse cut and bent for me while Im at work. It should be ready for welding when I get back. We should also have some soft water around too.
#77
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Oh, and thanks for the kind words. I am getting so anxious to get this thing wet!
It runs! I still need to figure out the mechanical to electronic foot pedal thing and adjust the parameters in the software, but it fires right up and idles nicely. Ill probably lower the idle just a bit to make it sound better
Here's a video:
It runs! I still need to figure out the mechanical to electronic foot pedal thing and adjust the parameters in the software, but it fires right up and idles nicely. Ill probably lower the idle just a bit to make it sound better
Here's a video: