I'm putting the lq4 into my 68 camaro. I'm using the factory position motor mounts. Can anybody recommend a good set of long tube headers with o2 ports that won't break the bank? Part numbers would help alot

 

I bought the Dynamax ones for 67-69 Camaro. When I bought mine they were $400 shipped. Looks like the price has gone up. High quality headers, but they hang a little low (I have them on my 6.0 in my 1965 Impala though...not sure how they hang under a Camaro).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dt...7/model/camaro

 

Stock manis work also

 

Those dynamax headers look nice. Yeah I had thought about manifolds but I'd rather go with some long tubes

 

Can anybody else recommend any?

 

I went with Kooks 1 3/4" in my 68 Firebird. They fit perfect, they are a little pricey though.

 

How do you envision your completed swap and what characteristics do you want it to possess? Answering such questions will make it easier for you to make purchasing decisions related to the components you will purchase. For example, If you plan to lower your car shouldn't headers with good ground clearance be high on your wish list? If you buy a bargain set of headers and destroy them due to their poor ground clearance how has that been money well spent? You also state that you are using stock location swap plates, what transmission crossmember do you plan to use and what engine inclination angle will the use of that crossmember and your engine mounts provide? This is important as you might save a couple hundred bucks up front on your headers and then give it all back up and then some on the tail end of your swap to sort out your U-joint working angles. What do you plan to run for an exhaust system, do you want good ground clearance out of that as well? If you do, then you should be aware that your choice of headers is going to have an effect there, especially in the center of your car where it's most important to street driving...low collectors equal low hanging exhaust in the front half of the car. Also, what are you planning to run for an alternator? If you want to place your engine in the "stock" location, you will have to notch your crossmember and/or jack up the engine to the moon to accommodate it if you want to run a low-mount alternator. There are a few advantages to putting the engine in the "stock" location, such as being able to retain the stock crossmember and driveshaft if you are using a legacy type GM transmission and the ability to use a particular oil pan, but you will be forced to make compromises I don't believe will be worth it in the end. So many guys have done this swap before that it would be ill-advised not to state what your total end goal is in order to get first-hand feedback on what combination of parts will yield the best results per your expectations.

 

To my understanding the centerline on my crank should be close to the same heighth as it was before. I didn't plan on cutting the front crossmember I bought the gm muscle car oil pan I didn't think I would have to mess with the crossmember. Am I wrong and it will still need to be cut?

 

You are real close in your overall thinking. The eng/trans inclination angle needs to remain the same as it was with the original engine and trans if you don't want to possibly have to adjust your pinion angle. You can move the height of the engine and trans together the same amount up or down slightly without throwing off the alighnment with the rear pinion, but you can't lower or raise them independently from one another without affecting the angle relationship between the crankshaft centerline and the pinion angle...if you raise the engine 1/2", then you have to raise the rear of the trans the same amount. The height from the center of the crank to the bottom of the average SB Chevy oil pan is 4" and the only LS oil pan that will provide you with that same approximate geometry is the 4th-gen F-body pan. All the other LS pans are at least 3/4" taller in the front than the F-body pan and may or may not allow you to lower the engine far enough to acheive the engine inclination angle you want without experiencing contact between the oil pan and the crossmember. Have others deviated from this with success? That depends on what your definition of a well engineered drivetrain set-up is. All sorts of shims and washer arraingments have been utilized before, but you won't see any professional car builder with a reputation for doing quality work approach it in that way.