The 3 Day Swap, from '81 Volvo Wagon to Tire Slaying Daily
#141
Got one side installed, strut insert for the driver's side arrives today. Overall I am very happy with the ride height. The pic shows the sleeve at almost the top of the adjustment range. Tons of clearance on the tires and wheels to the strut, and should be able to roll the fender to keep rubbing to a minimum. I can also go down a bit more, but will wait for the rears to go on to dial it all in. Tossed a rear wheel on the back with the other front adapter just for fun. Tried to fit the 10" wheel in and literally had to stuff it in there. With the new Ford 8.8 and some fine adjustment of the panhard bar and torque rods the 10 should fit with minimal rubbing on the inside of the wheel wells.
#143
So ran into something a bit odd last night, my IPD Adjustable Panhard bar is out of adjustment. I was test fitting the rear wheels to see how much fender work it was gonna take to make things work. Tossed the wheel on the driver's side and it was tucked in almost a full inch compared to the passenger side. I pulled the panhard bar off, shortened it in as far as it would go and then put it back on to see how much it had shifted the axle, low and behold, almost perfect, another half turn would put it right were it needs to be. Going to lightly sand the powdercoat off the jam nut and see if that will give me the 30* more of a turn, the chassis side bushing needs to sit in the bracket correctly. Only thing I can come up with is that with the axle so close to the chassis, the bar is inverted, making the adjustment I need, not the adjustment others would need with a reasonable ride height and a more level panhard bar.
All that said, 17x10 in the rear with trimmed fenders and a slight stretch on the 245's!!!!! They are close to the inner and outer fender for sure, but they fit, and look pretty damn awesome. I am sure they will rub a bit on rear axle articulation. I will wait to clearance the inner fender until I have driven it a few times and see how bad it rubs if it even does. Being so close to the outside of the fender is making a pretty good case for a Watts link setup, and the 8.8 being in there makes it just that much easier. I will wait and see how difficult/easy these adjustable torque arms are to fab then I can worry about making arms and brackets for a watts link.
Excited to drive this thing again, with almost proper suspension, a proper LSD, and proper tires. Should make for a whole different animal.
Purchased some straight hard brake line last night to make lines to adapt the Volvo soft lines from the chassis to the Ford soft lines on the calipers. Didn't want to mess with bubble flaring line so I will bend and cut to fit from the chassis lines to the calipers, then double flare the ends to match the Ford soft lines. That project is on the list of things to get done while awaiting the arrival of the rod ends for the torque arms and the 4th wheel (long story).
Another teaser pic . . .
All that said, 17x10 in the rear with trimmed fenders and a slight stretch on the 245's!!!!! They are close to the inner and outer fender for sure, but they fit, and look pretty damn awesome. I am sure they will rub a bit on rear axle articulation. I will wait to clearance the inner fender until I have driven it a few times and see how bad it rubs if it even does. Being so close to the outside of the fender is making a pretty good case for a Watts link setup, and the 8.8 being in there makes it just that much easier. I will wait and see how difficult/easy these adjustable torque arms are to fab then I can worry about making arms and brackets for a watts link.
Excited to drive this thing again, with almost proper suspension, a proper LSD, and proper tires. Should make for a whole different animal.
Purchased some straight hard brake line last night to make lines to adapt the Volvo soft lines from the chassis to the Ford soft lines on the calipers. Didn't want to mess with bubble flaring line so I will bend and cut to fit from the chassis lines to the calipers, then double flare the ends to match the Ford soft lines. That project is on the list of things to get done while awaiting the arrival of the rod ends for the torque arms and the 4th wheel (long story).
Another teaser pic . . .
#144
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Just remove the jam nut. I needed more than it would give me with it on. Removed it last year and haven't had any issues.
An issue you're going to run into is the upper rear shock mounts when stuffing a 10" wheel. You will have to relocate. I'm having that issue with a 9" wheel.
An issue you're going to run into is the upper rear shock mounts when stuffing a 10" wheel. You will have to relocate. I'm having that issue with a 9" wheel.
#145
Just remove the jam nut. I needed more than it would give me with it on. Removed it last year and haven't had any issues.
An issue you're going to run into is the upper rear shock mounts when stuffing a 10" wheel. You will have to relocate. I'm having that issue with a 9" wheel.
An issue you're going to run into is the upper rear shock mounts when stuffing a 10" wheel. You will have to relocate. I'm having that issue with a 9" wheel.
#147
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The upper shock mount is close, but I don't think it will be an issue. Need to articulate the axle tonight at full droop and see if it hits, that would be the only point at which I think it would have the ability to contact the wheel. The rear tucks tire at static ride height, so the outer lip of the wheel is almost above the shock mount at static ride height. Even then, there is still ~1.5-2" between the wheel and the shock mount nut and the 250lb springs limiting body roll.
#148
350 front and 250 rear has been a fairly tried and true spring setup on the 240 chassis. I went to 400 lb in the front due to the added weight. It is gonna be stiff for sure, but that is what I was looking for since I don't daily the car now and would rather sacrifice a little comfort for performance and hopefully traction.
#151
Finished up the e-brake cables, works great!
Got the 4th wheel mounted and on the car. Still need to roll fenders and get the panhard bar adjusted. Should have some pics of the final stance this evening.
Getting close to a test drive with the new axle, hopefully one night this week. Almost out of time and still need to detail the car and DA the paint.
Got the 4th wheel mounted and on the car. Still need to roll fenders and get the panhard bar adjusted. Should have some pics of the final stance this evening.
Getting close to a test drive with the new axle, hopefully one night this week. Almost out of time and still need to detail the car and DA the paint.
#153
Well, past 2 nights in the garage have been full of ups and downs. Got the brakes bled, no leaks with anything in the rear, so that's a win. Got in the car tonight, no pedal at all. Started poking around, it would appear the master cylinder has decided to start leaking at the booster, that's no bueno. So now I have to replace that and hope my diagnosis is correct. Same thing happened a few years ago when I first brought the car to SC. Not a game ender, but not fun having to track one down right before a decent road trip.
The rear is pretty well sorted, need to fiddle with the fenders some more and the ride height possibly. The front fenders got rolled last night. but I will need to trim the liners to keep them from rubbing.
Still need to sort the gauge cluster out, but I feel my new plan of attack should work. More on that when I have proof I was able to sort it out.
Overall I am confident I can meet the deadline of next Thursday. Just hope I can get some miles on this rear so I can have some confidence in it.
Snapped a few quick shots before calling it a night, I am happy with it, kinda wish I went with a 205 on the front instead of the 215, would have matched the rear more and cleared the fenders better. If I can find someone looking for the fronts, I can pull them off and cut my losses and get the 205's.
The rear is pretty well sorted, need to fiddle with the fenders some more and the ride height possibly. The front fenders got rolled last night. but I will need to trim the liners to keep them from rubbing.
Still need to sort the gauge cluster out, but I feel my new plan of attack should work. More on that when I have proof I was able to sort it out.
Overall I am confident I can meet the deadline of next Thursday. Just hope I can get some miles on this rear so I can have some confidence in it.
Snapped a few quick shots before calling it a night, I am happy with it, kinda wish I went with a 205 on the front instead of the 215, would have matched the rear more and cleared the fenders better. If I can find someone looking for the fronts, I can pull them off and cut my losses and get the 205's.
#156
Got the car out of the garage and managed to put a few miles on it. Very slight rubbing in the rear so far. The fronts are killing the fender liners, but should remove what they need of the plastic in a few more miles.
Drives GREAT. Suspension is stiff, but not bone jarring, the front feels so composed over most bumps. Rear is still a bit soft, but doesn't feel bouncy at all. Could definitely stand some stiffer shocks, will track down some Suburban shocks when I have the time and money.
Rear end is a touch noisy at the "neutral point" between being under load and decel. I say noisy, however, it is gear whine and not all that loud but noticeable. I think it may be normal, but I will keep an ear on it and see if it gets any worse and investigate further.
I think the biggest improvement is the addition of the adjustable torque arms and correct pinion angle. The 2-3 nervous pulls I made were buttery smooth, nothing like the vibration I felt before. Also, NO MORE RUBBING!!!! The driveshaft would hit the tunnel under hard acceleration with 2 people in the car or over small bumps under heavy load. With a friend in the car, completely smooth and no rubbing or vibration!!!
After driving some more, I began to notice a clunk/pop in the rear going around corners. I will get the car in the air tonight to clearance the rear fenders a touch more and investigate the noise. I have a few ideas as to what it may be but who knows. It will also be a great time to double check torque on all the suspension components and links.
Here is a quick snap, sans center caps. You can see my lil man already wanting to take it out joy riding after it's short hiatus.
Drives GREAT. Suspension is stiff, but not bone jarring, the front feels so composed over most bumps. Rear is still a bit soft, but doesn't feel bouncy at all. Could definitely stand some stiffer shocks, will track down some Suburban shocks when I have the time and money.
Rear end is a touch noisy at the "neutral point" between being under load and decel. I say noisy, however, it is gear whine and not all that loud but noticeable. I think it may be normal, but I will keep an ear on it and see if it gets any worse and investigate further.
I think the biggest improvement is the addition of the adjustable torque arms and correct pinion angle. The 2-3 nervous pulls I made were buttery smooth, nothing like the vibration I felt before. Also, NO MORE RUBBING!!!! The driveshaft would hit the tunnel under hard acceleration with 2 people in the car or over small bumps under heavy load. With a friend in the car, completely smooth and no rubbing or vibration!!!
After driving some more, I began to notice a clunk/pop in the rear going around corners. I will get the car in the air tonight to clearance the rear fenders a touch more and investigate the noise. I have a few ideas as to what it may be but who knows. It will also be a great time to double check torque on all the suspension components and links.
Here is a quick snap, sans center caps. You can see my lil man already wanting to take it out joy riding after it's short hiatus.
#158
SWAGON - My lil man will be 2 in a few weeks. He is OBSESSED with cars, trucks, tractors, and heavy equipment. We go to Cars & Coffee when we can, and have a blast walking around checking out all the "vroom-vroooms". I hope his fascination sticks, it would be nice to get an extra set of hands in the garage.