I don't know about that question, but I have a turn signal arm from my 93 S-10 that you can have for research on figuring out the wiring.. I figure with a GM unit, you might have a better chance for wiring up your stuff to match this one. It is typical GM, push to set/decel on the end button, off/on/resume-accel push in the on/off button towards the steering wheel.

 

Thanks for the offer. I think I have it figured out just from comparing the wiring diagrams though.

 

dang man, that was 2 1/2 weeks ago..

You been in a coma?? LOL

 

Been real busy at work and doing side jobs. There won't be any real progress with the car for a few weeks cause I'm gonna finish stripping i (which won't take much) and have it painted. The guy I'm using said he can't get to it till after the first though. I can continue to gather parts until then though.

 

So I don't have access to any pictures or videos right this second. But, I got the car running a while ago and it had some engine noise. It sounded like lifters so I went ahead and bought a cam, push rods, lifters, valve springs, and trunion upgrade from Texas speed. Installed all that and the noise went away. Brought the car to the dyno and started tuning the rpm columns in my AEM that I installed. Once I got to the 2500 rpm column, the motor started knocking. I shut it down and brought it back to my work. A couple weeks later I had time to pull the motor and inspect it. I couldn't even turn the motor by hand with a 24" breaker bar. Took it apart and the number two rod bearing spun and locked the motor up. I bought a new crank, new rod, and all new bearings (rod and main). Installed all that and all is well now. Planning on bringing it back to the dyno in the next couple weeks to finish tuning it.

The reason it spun the bearing (and made noise before the cam install), was it had no oil pressure. I found this out when I was diagnosing why my alternator wasn't charging. I found bent pins in a connector inside the car. One of those pins was for the oil pressure light. So it had no oil pressure while I beat on it some and drove it before the dyno. That got fixed before the dyno by swapping the lines on the oil pan (instructions were backwards for the swap oil pan and thus the oil couldn't flow through the filter cause of the internal check valve).

I gotta go to training for work this week so I won't be working on it this week. But, all I really have left is put a few interior pieces in, put the front bumper on, and make sure all the lights work. It drives real good for having a base tune. The stock size 205 tires hate all the torque though.

 

Another update. I brought the car to the local 1/8th mile track yesterday. The first pass I had no idea where I needed to be at with the launch control. I had it set at 3500RPM. Did a small burn out but thought it wasn't good enough. So, I went to do a little more of a burn out and right when I got off the clutch and on to the break, the engine stalled because the tires hooked that good. That run I only pulled a 1.9x 60ft and ran 8.0. Second pass I upped the launch rpm up to 4,500rpm because I knew 3,500 was too low after how the car left on the first pass. This time I pulled a 1.76 60FT and ran 7.66. Third pass the car slowed down some but I didn't think much of it. Fourth pass, I blew right through the clutch. So after two passes, the clutch started to go out. keep in mind it has never been beaten on before this and only has about 300 miles on it. So I contacted Mcleod since I was disappointed. They said I could pay $400 to get it rebuilt but I don't know if I want to do that after this experience with it, I have no faith in them after this. It definitely had more in it if I had time to figure out the launch.


96 240SX
LQ4
Comp Cam - ADV Dur 260 and 289. Dur @ .05 211 and 239. Lift .600 and .623
T56
3.90 gear
26x10 Mickey Thompson ET Drag
Mcleod rst twin disk clutch
LS1 intake