LS6 Swap into G35 Coupe
#1
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Hey guys,
First off, I want to say it's a pleasure to have joined this site. For the past few years I have been lurking the site to learn more about the LS engines.
So...the backgroud:
I have owned an Infiniti G35 Coupe since halfway thru college in '06, and the car has gone thru many stages.
About a year ago, I got an offer at work to be transferred to Brazil for 2 years, so I removed the Vortech supercharger/all of its direct supporting mods, and put the G in storage.
I'm now coming back (a little earlier than expected) and I want to finally go ahead and accomplish my dream of putting a proper powerplant under the hood! Looking forward to having reliable all motor power. I went thru a VQ engine within the first 1,000 miles of the Vortech since the tuner pushed it too much. The second one was sitting at 400/375tq before I removed it. So I was always too worried that it would blow again, to really enjoy it. The MPG and constant FI headaches also made it for an impractical DD, which is what I want to accomplish this time.
Before I get the typical "you want an LS buy a car that comes with it"; understand that I have had this car thru some tough times and it has always help me put my mind off things, and I don't want to just sell it and get a better/newer vehicle, although that would be the normal thing to do lol...well you guys know exactly what I'm talking about, you suffer from the same issue... ask your wives about the money you dump in your cars![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Additionally, I want to accomplish the vision that I had for it since day one (well maybe like day 450something, when I learnt some more about it).
Well, as of a few days ago I finally found the right opportunity and bought an LS6 from a crashed '05 CTS-V.
The engine is in good condition, other than cosmetic damage from a small fire that lasted for about 45 seconds due to a crimped fuel line after a clutch upgrade, which damaged the outside of the intake manifold, and burned the spark plug lines.
The engine idles find though, so the damage was only cosmetic.
Anways, I wanted the help of the members that have the experience with the LS's that I lack, but will obtain over time.
I have done some extensive research but would also like to hear first hand from the ones that actually modded their LS6's.
Im currently trying to find a good deal on a regular T56 (gto or camaro), and contacting the best company that offer the swap kits.
In the meantime, I will be researching and purchasing all of the items that I need...
Clutch/Flywheel (not sure if I’ll go aftermarket or just find a good condition OEM that comes with the T56 that I find)
Fuel Rails (want to replace due to the fire)
102 Fast Intake (oem damaged on the outside).
PS pump (didn't come with it)
Injectors (worth it to changed? Not sure if I’ll get ls2 fuel rails with oem injectors, or go aftermarket)
& the misc that will take to complete the swap - custom exhaust (Swap Kit comes with long tube headers), wire harness mating, custom ac lines, dashes, gauges, etc
Looking into doing valve springs, as I read that they are a weak point on the ls6's, and if I do I might as well do cams.
Spoke to vengeance racing about their stuff, and they tried to get me to use their fast 102, fuel rails, injectors, and VRX2 or 3 camshaft kits (vrx2, .660 dual valvespring kit with steel retainers, 7.400 hardened pushrods).... along with their 102 throtle body, as they offer a cable driven one.
Please let me know if you have any advice for that stuff. In advance, I wanna thank you if you decide to help me. I know that it's kinda annoying, but u can image how valuable your info is!
I'll already be spending close to 10K to do the swap, so anything that I can save will help. For example maybe I should do just the swap w.o cams/heads/intake manifold then once everything is in running order then start with the bolt ons.
Anything that you guys can think of to make me save some on unecessary things, that would be great. I know that the LS engines are very interchangeable so if you think of an used LSX item that would do well with what I'm doing instead of having to go aftermarket, I will def. look into it!
Goal is in the low 400s, then slowly go up to the 475 range.
Some pics of the G as it sits:
![](http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/Conrador/Diagonal.jpg)
![](http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/Conrador/GsButt_zpsf69a91d7.jpg)
Before the SC was removed:
![](http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/Conrador/IMG_6148_zps0dbe59f7.jpg)
The new heart waiting at the shop![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
First off, I want to say it's a pleasure to have joined this site. For the past few years I have been lurking the site to learn more about the LS engines.
So...the backgroud:
I have owned an Infiniti G35 Coupe since halfway thru college in '06, and the car has gone thru many stages.
About a year ago, I got an offer at work to be transferred to Brazil for 2 years, so I removed the Vortech supercharger/all of its direct supporting mods, and put the G in storage.
I'm now coming back (a little earlier than expected) and I want to finally go ahead and accomplish my dream of putting a proper powerplant under the hood! Looking forward to having reliable all motor power. I went thru a VQ engine within the first 1,000 miles of the Vortech since the tuner pushed it too much. The second one was sitting at 400/375tq before I removed it. So I was always too worried that it would blow again, to really enjoy it. The MPG and constant FI headaches also made it for an impractical DD, which is what I want to accomplish this time.
Before I get the typical "you want an LS buy a car that comes with it"; understand that I have had this car thru some tough times and it has always help me put my mind off things, and I don't want to just sell it and get a better/newer vehicle, although that would be the normal thing to do lol...well you guys know exactly what I'm talking about, you suffer from the same issue... ask your wives about the money you dump in your cars
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Additionally, I want to accomplish the vision that I had for it since day one (well maybe like day 450something, when I learnt some more about it).
Well, as of a few days ago I finally found the right opportunity and bought an LS6 from a crashed '05 CTS-V.
The engine is in good condition, other than cosmetic damage from a small fire that lasted for about 45 seconds due to a crimped fuel line after a clutch upgrade, which damaged the outside of the intake manifold, and burned the spark plug lines.
The engine idles find though, so the damage was only cosmetic.
Anways, I wanted the help of the members that have the experience with the LS's that I lack, but will obtain over time.
I have done some extensive research but would also like to hear first hand from the ones that actually modded their LS6's.
Im currently trying to find a good deal on a regular T56 (gto or camaro), and contacting the best company that offer the swap kits.
In the meantime, I will be researching and purchasing all of the items that I need...
Clutch/Flywheel (not sure if I’ll go aftermarket or just find a good condition OEM that comes with the T56 that I find)
Fuel Rails (want to replace due to the fire)
102 Fast Intake (oem damaged on the outside).
PS pump (didn't come with it)
Injectors (worth it to changed? Not sure if I’ll get ls2 fuel rails with oem injectors, or go aftermarket)
& the misc that will take to complete the swap - custom exhaust (Swap Kit comes with long tube headers), wire harness mating, custom ac lines, dashes, gauges, etc
Looking into doing valve springs, as I read that they are a weak point on the ls6's, and if I do I might as well do cams.
Spoke to vengeance racing about their stuff, and they tried to get me to use their fast 102, fuel rails, injectors, and VRX2 or 3 camshaft kits (vrx2, .660 dual valvespring kit with steel retainers, 7.400 hardened pushrods).... along with their 102 throtle body, as they offer a cable driven one.
Please let me know if you have any advice for that stuff. In advance, I wanna thank you if you decide to help me. I know that it's kinda annoying, but u can image how valuable your info is!
I'll already be spending close to 10K to do the swap, so anything that I can save will help. For example maybe I should do just the swap w.o cams/heads/intake manifold then once everything is in running order then start with the bolt ons.
Anything that you guys can think of to make me save some on unecessary things, that would be great. I know that the LS engines are very interchangeable so if you think of an used LSX item that would do well with what I'm doing instead of having to go aftermarket, I will def. look into it!
Goal is in the low 400s, then slowly go up to the 475 range.
Some pics of the G as it sits:
![](http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/Conrador/Diagonal.jpg)
![](http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/Conrador/GsButt_zpsf69a91d7.jpg)
Before the SC was removed:
![](http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/Conrador/IMG_6148_zps0dbe59f7.jpg)
The new heart waiting at the shop
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![](http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/Conrador/d6673a56-f871-4222-995e-05314b3e544b_zps064dd5de.jpg)
Last edited by LS6G35.Swap; 11-14-2013 at 10:15 AM.
#5
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Looking into doing valve springs, as I read that they are a weak point on the ls6's, and if I do I might as well do cams.
For example maybe I should do just the swap w.o cams/heads/intake manifold then once everything is in running order then start with the bolt ons.
For example maybe I should do just the swap w.o cams/heads/intake manifold then once everything is in running order then start with the bolt ons.
Welcome to the forum
![Mr. Cool](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cool.gif)
#7
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Lol yep cam not cams i know its just one, its just that I'm so used to saying cams that its force of habit.... ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
The l6s came from a wrecked V. I was gonna buy the complete pullout, but the T56 that comes on the v1 ctsv is longer and has a wider bellhousing than the typical T56, so it would create issues with the swap kit, and shifter location.
Thanks for all of the continued help guys
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
The l6s came from a wrecked V. I was gonna buy the complete pullout, but the T56 that comes on the v1 ctsv is longer and has a wider bellhousing than the typical T56, so it would create issues with the swap kit, and shifter location.
Thanks for all of the continued help guys
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Last edited by LS6G35.Swap; 11-15-2013 at 07:07 AM.
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#8
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Good luck with the swap brother, I think it would be nice. I had a g35 and they are slow as hell with the vq. A g35 with an ls motor would be sexy.
Some guy in a shitty 350z tried to run with me the other day, Ill never understand it.
Some guy in a shitty 350z tried to run with me the other day, Ill never understand it.
#9
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Thanks!
Yep they are kinda quick but def not fast by any means
Maybe he just wanted to have fun. I try cars that I know I'll loose to all of the time heheh. Its just fun to race, I'm happy afterwards and throw the thumbs up regardless!
I think the only diff is that ill be getting the bird more off after the swap... Ppl tend to get so pissed if it doesn't go their way :/
Yep they are kinda quick but def not fast by any means
Maybe he just wanted to have fun. I try cars that I know I'll loose to all of the time heheh. Its just fun to race, I'm happy afterwards and throw the thumbs up regardless!
I think the only diff is that ill be getting the bird more off after the swap... Ppl tend to get so pissed if it doesn't go their way :/
#11
TECH Fanatic
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Good choice dude. Fires don't usually hurt blocks and heads... There are fires going on inside the motor... I'd check and or replace all the sensors on it though, knock sensors, map sensor, you know that kind of stuff. I'd just get a new stock LS6 manifold for cheap off here. They flow well. Heads and cam, call up Martin Tick performance or one of the other cam people. Vengeance makes some pretty ridiculous cars that are badass. But if you want a daily driver, a giant cam is not ideal. Plus, check into getting the 243s machined. For me, I'm looking into new heads or machining. Kind of leaning toward Trick Flow 220cc "as cast" heads. 450 is attainable naturally aspirated, but I think we all know its only a matter of time before you put some kind of power adder on it.
#12
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yep, all electronics need to go. just the smoke from the fire ids enough to damage them. I've seen entire houses get the electronics replaced just because of a small stove top fire in the kitchen!(I once held a job as part of the fire restoration team for service master back in the early 2000s)
#13
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Good choice dude. Fires don't usually hurt blocks and heads... There are fires going on inside the motor... I'd check and or replace all the sensors on it though, knock sensors, map sensor, you know that kind of stuff. I'd just get a new stock LS6 manifold for cheap off here. They flow well. Heads and cam, call up Martin Tick performance or one of the other cam people. Vengeance makes some pretty ridiculous cars that are badass. But if you want a daily driver, a giant cam is not ideal. Plus, check into getting the 243s machined. For me, I'm looking into new heads or machining. Kind of leaning toward Trick Flow 220cc "as cast" heads. 450 is attainable naturally aspirated, but I think we all know its only a matter of time before you put some kind of power adder on it.
Yeah, we'll see how I deal with that. I need to get the whole engine checked. Currently I'm just getting the parts in order. Really need to find a good deal on a T56
![Icon Eek](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_eek.gif)
I really want to do all of the mods prior to installing the engine, it's just tempting to put the engine as is (other than dealing with the fire damage) in the car, working out all of the bugs (ac, tach, misc. conversion issues), then start modding it like if it was stock car. That way I'm not too much into it in case there's a major issue with the swap once it's installed and running in the car.
Thats sucks.
Yeah I can only image how much he dropped, considering the swap, then the two LS2s and turbo/supporting mods.
![Barf](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_barf.gif)
#14
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There was an article in Hot Rodding... They took what they thought was a 5.3L LS based truck motor. Did a couple things but basically left the stock bottom end which had some hard miles on it... 76mm turbos... Race gas (to keep it from predetonating)... It made like 1200hp... Now even though that result giant typical, it should give some credence to the whole "Tuning is the most important part" philosophy. It really is the most important. You can spend thousands on heads, cam, lower end, etc etc, but a little knock and it all goes bye bye. The stock LS6 bottom end isn't that strong but its just to give you the idea. I'll see if I can find the article.
#15
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Yes but it turned out it was a 4.8 v8 if im not mistaken and it ran only on a engine dyno not even in a car. Tunning has a lot to do with how long it last but there's somethings you cant compensate for. Like bad fuel or wear of the engine components.
#16
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^ Yea, I just brought it up for illustration purposes really. Not as a hard fast rule.
And i forgot to repost with the article... Here it is:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/h...g_bang_theory/
Back to serick, I hear what you're saying and I agree. But a dyno pull is a dyno pull. In the car or not, 1200 at the crank is really impressive. It may last a season, but for $500 can you beat that? I mean hell it came out of a junkyard lol. Like I say though, all those tech articles have to be taken with a grain of salt. Its preformed under ideal circumstances that will never be replicated real world. But on the flip side of that, this article goes to show that tuning makes a huge difference in longevity. Heck 60 pulls??? I mean that's every Friday test n tune at a drag stop for a whole season, depending on where you run. Here we only get like 4 runs a night max at a 1/4, maaaaaybe 8 at an 1/8th if you are really really lucky.
Bad fuel and weather changes shouldn't be too big of a deal... I mean don't run 87 if you're tuned for 91/93 or race gas... My last car was fine unless the sensors got too moist.
And i forgot to repost with the article... Here it is:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/h...g_bang_theory/
Back to serick, I hear what you're saying and I agree. But a dyno pull is a dyno pull. In the car or not, 1200 at the crank is really impressive. It may last a season, but for $500 can you beat that? I mean hell it came out of a junkyard lol. Like I say though, all those tech articles have to be taken with a grain of salt. Its preformed under ideal circumstances that will never be replicated real world. But on the flip side of that, this article goes to show that tuning makes a huge difference in longevity. Heck 60 pulls??? I mean that's every Friday test n tune at a drag stop for a whole season, depending on where you run. Here we only get like 4 runs a night max at a 1/4, maaaaaybe 8 at an 1/8th if you are really really lucky.
Bad fuel and weather changes shouldn't be too big of a deal... I mean don't run 87 if you're tuned for 91/93 or race gas... My last car was fine unless the sensors got too moist.
Last edited by ryridesmotox; 11-17-2013 at 01:27 PM.
#17
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All im saying is 60 pulls on a engine dyno is not even the same as 60 pulls on a drum dyno which is not the same as 60 pulls at the track. Because no traction issues. No hard launches shifts and different loads and you dont have the wieght of a 4000pound car to move. All said and done the article is right its all in the tune
but dont be expecting so much power out of a stock motor.
also the issue with bad gas is not running 87 when you are tuned for 92. Its you fill up at gas station that has had the gas sitting around to long or just got a shitty batch of gas next think you know you are driving aggressively maybe do a 3rd and 4th gear pull and bang.
Proper tune will make you big power but the question is how long will your weakest link last
but dont be expecting so much power out of a stock motor.
also the issue with bad gas is not running 87 when you are tuned for 92. Its you fill up at gas station that has had the gas sitting around to long or just got a shitty batch of gas next think you know you are driving aggressively maybe do a 3rd and 4th gear pull and bang.
Proper tune will make you big power but the question is how long will your weakest link last
#18
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Bad gas and weather aren't a huge deal as long as your tune isn't pushing the envelope. My last car was a little so I had to back things of a bit because the desired parameters were very aggressive and didn't allow for much wiggle room with fuel or weather variables.