5.3 L33 Hp goals help!
11-29-2013, 09:59 PM
#22
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Let me make this a little more clear. Im not to worried about how streetable the car really is it will be driven on the street but even if its a more track oriented car I will be able to manage it on the street. So lets not get to hung up on that. I just am wondering the best way to reach my power goal of near 500 rwhp.
so far I got a few saying its possible to reach 450 NA and some saying its not.
Anyone got advise on a forced induction set up? Will the engine be a ticking bomb if i dont build it with all forged interanls on FI? or can a stock bottom end 5.3 hold low boost all day?
thanks for all the input so far! appreciate it!
so far I got a few saying its possible to reach 450 NA and some saying its not.
Anyone got advise on a forced induction set up? Will the engine be a ticking bomb if i dont build it with all forged interanls on FI? or can a stock bottom end 5.3 hold low boost all day?
thanks for all the input so far! appreciate it!
11-29-2013, 10:58 PM
#23
8K is a realistic budget for this build. As for boring out the engine? Going to be too expensive to do that kind of work and keep costs down to build one of these. Buy a 6.0L and go if you want cubes. Lots of LY6 engines out there for 1500 bucks and the heads are a pretty damn big step up over the L33 heads. Downside is theres a lot more rework to be done to make one a stand alone engine ( VVT etc ) but it'll still come out dollars ahead of boring/pistons and the like.
But I like the L33 its a great engine ( have one myself in fact ) and you can always add cubes later on if its not enough jam for ya. Put together a package with
LS6 intake
cam as I mentioned
PAC beehives ( 12's or 15's )
new pushrods
port TB
headers
SVO 30 injectors
good exh
F body oil pan + pick up
F body FEAD
Tune
if you have the engine and shop hard and smart you should be able to put that all together for around $3K above engine cost and then its about the trans.
Speaking of which if you go t56 run the LS7 clutch, Ive run three now and loved em all. 2-3K for trans + 5-- for shaft. Should get you close to budget and perform well
But I like the L33 its a great engine ( have one myself in fact ) and you can always add cubes later on if its not enough jam for ya. Put together a package with
LS6 intake
cam as I mentioned
PAC beehives ( 12's or 15's )
new pushrods
port TB
headers
SVO 30 injectors
good exh
F body oil pan + pick up
F body FEAD
Tune
if you have the engine and shop hard and smart you should be able to put that all together for around $3K above engine cost and then its about the trans.
Speaking of which if you go t56 run the LS7 clutch, Ive run three now and loved em all. 2-3K for trans + 5-- for shaft. Should get you close to budget and perform well
11-30-2013, 01:27 AM
#24
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my l33/243 longblock with 8k miles was 600.00. 12k mile oem ls2 cam and springs 150.00, ls6 intake 300.00, ebay .080 pushrods 85.00, arp rod bolts 90.00, ebay 8740 headstuds 68.00, oem gaskets and seals 190.00, lq9 injectors 50.00, 78mm ported oem throttle body 65.00, truck 85mm maf 35.00, ebay stainless headers 195.00, made my own stand alone harness 0.00, hptuners setup 600.00. easy 400crankhp, likely more like 440-450chp. but who cares since it is in a 2280lb car with a 5 speed. @$1700.00 before hptuners not bad cost wise, runs on pump gas and very repeatable by many.
11-30-2013, 08:55 AM
#25
Plenty of cheap builds out there but L33 rod bolts are fine, no need to change them. Stock head bolts are fine for na builds unless your planning excessive amounts of spray or adding boost.
buying Hptuners, and actually tuning properly are in VERY different worlds. I've had HP for years and Im still a hack tuner learning much. Just saying they dont tune themselves and for 4-600 bucks you can hire a GOOD tuner and dyno it as well.
buying Hptuners, and actually tuning properly are in VERY different worlds. I've had HP for years and Im still a hack tuner learning much. Just saying they dont tune themselves and for 4-600 bucks you can hire a GOOD tuner and dyno it as well.
11-30-2013, 09:45 AM
#26
Plenty of cheap builds out there but L33 rod bolts are fine, no need to change them. Stock head bolts are fine for na builds unless your planning excessive amounts of spray or adding boost.
buying Hptuners, and actually tuning properly are in VERY different worlds. I've had HP for years and Im still a hack tuner learning much. Just saying they dont tune themselves and for 4-600 bucks you can hire a GOOD tuner and dyno it as well.
buying Hptuners, and actually tuning properly are in VERY different worlds. I've had HP for years and Im still a hack tuner learning much. Just saying they dont tune themselves and for 4-600 bucks you can hire a GOOD tuner and dyno it as well.
Thanks
11-30-2013, 11:45 AM
#27
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I already have an l33 with 799 heads I got for 500$ I am also going to run the t56 transmission but haven't bought one yet. I got a cts v clutch for 60$ but I'm not going to use the dual mass flywheel it came with. Or possibly might not use the clutch all together it was just so cheap I bought it. I am planing to use hp tuners and have maperformance do the tuning for me when the time comes.
11-30-2013, 12:25 PM
#28
Clutches and valve springs are the two items I HIGHLY recommend buying brand new. LS6 clutch is meh, LS7 is wayyyyyy better. Scoggin Dickey sells the entire package for a good price and fast ship. Spend the money on a decent new clutch and save elsewhere, its worth it.
11-30-2013, 01:34 PM
#29
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eventually I do plan to spray it. but for now its still fun na.
Plenty of cheap builds out there but L33 rod bolts are fine, no need to change them. Stock head bolts are fine for na builds unless your planning excessive amounts of spray or adding boost.
buying Hptuners, and actually tuning properly are in VERY different worlds. I've had HP for years and Im still a hack tuner learning much. Just saying they dont tune themselves and for 4-600 bucks you can hire a GOOD tuner and dyno it as well.
buying Hptuners, and actually tuning properly are in VERY different worlds. I've had HP for years and Im still a hack tuner learning much. Just saying they dont tune themselves and for 4-600 bucks you can hire a GOOD tuner and dyno it as well.
11-30-2013, 02:13 PM
#31
Well seeing as this thread is getting more informative I might as well add the LM7 is every bit as good as the L33 performance potential wise, it just weighs 100lbs more. In fact its likely got more total power potential for all out boost builds but Id have to think at those 30psi plus levels most guys are using race prepped blocks anyways.
Seems kinda nutty to spend 20K on a boost/fuel system and install it over a 500 dollar tear out engine
Seems kinda nutty to spend 20K on a boost/fuel system and install it over a 500 dollar tear out engine
11-30-2013, 02:47 PM
#32
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so I am looking at getting TSP 228R 114lsa cam, PRC dual springs, TSP hardend chromoly push rods, LS7 lifters, and comp ultra gold 2122 rocker arms.
also ATI damper, ls6 intake, and I am planning to run it on E85
opinions?
also ATI damper, ls6 intake, and I am planning to run it on E85
opinions?
11-30-2013, 02:51 PM
#33
^ Stock rockers arms.... trunion upgrade maybe but stock rocker arms. Just be sure to run Joe Gibbs LS oil ( has the right additives not to mess up your valves )
Why E85? Are you boosting it?
BTW that cam will work great. On a stick id get the 112lsa
Why E85? Are you boosting it?
BTW that cam will work great. On a stick id get the 112lsa
11-30-2013, 02:51 PM
#34
go to carcraft.com and read on the 5.3 cam only swap dyno article. it was on a bone stock 5.3 not the l33 so the numbers will be a little higher for the l33. run a ls2 cam and springs, mill the heads .020 to make them 62cc, headers, and a good tune and you will be in 450chp territory. but still be very driveable on 91 octane pump gas.
l33 vs lm7 was only 12 hp difference
11-30-2013, 02:57 PM
#38
Engine Designation: L33 (H.O. 5.3L)
Displacement5.3L
Lift0.479/0.479
Duration193/193 degrees
LSA116 degrees
Idle vacuum22.4 in-Hg
Cranking compression182 psi
Peak power362 at 5,300 rpm
Peak torque387 at 4,500 rpm
Average HP290
Average TQ357
HP/TQ gains (over LM7 cam) at
2,500-4 lb-ft
3,5000
4,500+4 lb-ft
5,500+9 lb-ft (10 hp)
6,200+12 lb-ft (14 hp)
Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...#ixzz2mAGzCSwj
Displacement5.3L
Lift0.479/0.479
Duration193/193 degrees
LSA116 degrees
Idle vacuum22.4 in-Hg
Cranking compression182 psi
Peak power362 at 5,300 rpm
Peak torque387 at 4,500 rpm
Average HP290
Average TQ357
HP/TQ gains (over LM7 cam) at
2,500-4 lb-ft
3,5000
4,500+4 lb-ft
5,500+9 lb-ft (10 hp)
6,200+12 lb-ft (14 hp)
Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...#ixzz2mAGzCSwj
11-30-2013, 03:05 PM
#39
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I guess e85 would only be necessary if I want to change out pistons for higher compression.
stock rocker arms with the trunion upgrade capable of holding the dual springs and added cam lift reliably? I want to get some RPM out of this engine as well.
stock rocker arms with the trunion upgrade capable of holding the dual springs and added cam lift reliably? I want to get some RPM out of this engine as well.