Motor dies when making a quick stop
What is the best way to test this?? My brake switch has 2 wires I spliced into the wire that goes hot when the brake is applied. Is that correct??
to the OP.
I had a similar problem that's worth checking into when I thought it was the MAF or PCM. It was actually because I guess I got a bad batch of gas. Ethanol absorbs water... if you got a bad batch of gas (old) or let the car sit for a while it can cause it not to be able to hold an idle.
something worth checking that might be an easy fix.
to the OP.
I had a similar problem that's worth checking into when I thought it was the MAF or PCM. It was actually because I guess I got a bad batch of gas. Ethanol absorbs water... if you got a bad batch of gas (old) or let the car sit for a while it can cause it not to be able to hold an idle.
something worth checking that might be an easy fix.
I had a similar problem that's worth checking into when I thought it was the MAF or PCM. It was actually because I guess I got a bad batch of gas. Ethanol absorbs water... if you got a bad batch of gas (old) or let the car sit for a while it can cause it not to be able to hold an idle.
something worth checking that might be an easy fix.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Whitehall,PA
No, the computer is sending a ground signal to the torque converter it to lock up and you need to drop out that signal for it to unlock when the brakes are applied. To do this you need to wire in a relay like the one posted earlier and wire it so that when the brakes are applied the TCC wire is given 12v. There was a write up on here that included a diagram. Try a search for TCC wiring and it may come up for you.Found a good diagram.http://www.jaguarspecialties.com/pho...tus-Wiring.jpg
The longer I am driving the more prone it is to do it. I'm going to have to re-wire that TCC. Thanks for the link and diagram guys.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia CANADA
Is the TCC wire and the brake switch wire important if your not running an electronically controlled transmission? I am having a stalling issue, but running a turbo400. I have the neutral safety wire just grounded at all times, and the other wires arent hooked up?
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
Stalling Chiropaul no problem, lt1swap.c0m has a ton of info for wiring I couldn't have done my swap without it. Mountain man, if your engine originally had an automatic, you probably have to flash your ECU for a manual trans.
I never had an issue with stalling in my S10. Regardless of the speed when I tried to stop.
No. I used phones gps for speedometer. I had a plain jane typical stock converter in my 400 so I have not had to deal with any of the LOCKUP stuff you guys with electronic transmissions do.
I have had a conversation in the past with Brendan at LT1swap and we talked about using the neutral safety based internal rev limiter for something like a trans brake for drag racing. He said in theory it could be used, but it is a fuel cut type of system, not an ignition cut like the MSD and other brands use when the rev limiter activates on those setups. We talked about trying it out on my computer when I got a transbrake installed in my S-10, but I never got that done.
Now, having thought about the idea, since it is a fuel cut, it is not as accurate of a limiter as the ignition cut is. The fuel cut revs 300-500 RPM in factory vehicles, and if you release the transbrake on a down swing, when it hits, you have no fuel going to the cylinders and are launching on a power loss cycle, instead of a power gain cycle.
Now, having thought about the idea, since it is a fuel cut, it is not as accurate of a limiter as the ignition cut is. The fuel cut revs 300-500 RPM in factory vehicles, and if you release the transbrake on a down swing, when it hits, you have no fuel going to the cylinders and are launching on a power loss cycle, instead of a power gain cycle.
I had no problem leaving LOTS of the rubber from these little 14" tires all over my home town streets.
Ok, so basically my wiring is totally wrong. That explains A LOT!! I thought the issue was resolved, but it is still wanting to do it if I rapidly decelerate. If I kind of coast and slowly brake to a stop then it is fine.
The longer I am driving the more prone it is to do it. I'm going to have to re-wire that TCC. Thanks for the link and diagram guys.
The longer I am driving the more prone it is to do it. I'm going to have to re-wire that TCC. Thanks for the link and diagram guys.
Brendan said DBC should be ok, but dbw will almost always die.
*edit * Without the speed sensor, that is..
With Christmas and my practice I've been super busy, but I should finally get time to wire up the relay tomorrow and give it a shot. I will let everyone know as soon as I try that.
I'm running a th400 with an internal VSS btw. The pcm has been throwing two trans related codes P1810 and P1860. Which kind of pisses me off since my tuner knew I was running a TH400 and I assumed they would have tuned the pcm for a manual. Btw the tune is a mail order from Texas Speed to get the car rolling.
I'm running a th400 with an internal VSS btw. The pcm has been throwing two trans related codes P1810 and P1860. Which kind of pisses me off since my tuner knew I was running a TH400 and I assumed they would have tuned the pcm for a manual. Btw the tune is a mail order from Texas Speed to get the car rolling.