72 Nova - The Booboo Project LS/4L65e
02-15-2014, 04:14 PM
#62
School me on the belt tensioner please. As you have read before I went through a number of belts. I ended up using the 6PK2020 belt which leaves the tensioner at the far most right line.
I then decided to purchase a slightly longer belt 6PK2025 which left the tensioner between the red and green line.
So my question of the weekend, where is the tensioner supposed to be at? For some reason I have a feeling I'll be buying my 5th belt this weekend.
I then decided to purchase a slightly longer belt 6PK2025 which left the tensioner between the red and green line.
So my question of the weekend, where is the tensioner supposed to be at? For some reason I have a feeling I'll be buying my 5th belt this weekend.
02-18-2014, 08:21 PM
#63
Out of curiosity I went back to the auto shop and swapped the belts for a 6PK2040 to see how the tensioner would sit. So not sure which belt to use still.
At the same time I went to pick up two parts I ordered from the dealer. The LS3 head plug part # 12553191 and the PCV tube part # 12594779
I added some thread sealer to the plug and torqued it down to 15 lb/ft.
I then ran into a snafu with the PCV tube/hose. I did not take into account the steam vent line so now I have to figure out a way on how to fix this.
I guess on the 2nd picture you can see a somewhat kink, but it is there.
At the same time I bought the heater hose to close the loop on the heater part of the water pump. Eventually I will be running a Vintage Air so for now I decided to close it. It is a 5/8" ID and 3/4" ID which fits perfectly on the heater exit and return.
You have to cut about 1/2" off the 5/8" side so it sits correctly. I added some hose clamps as well.
At the same time I went to pick up two parts I ordered from the dealer. The LS3 head plug part # 12553191 and the PCV tube part # 12594779
I added some thread sealer to the plug and torqued it down to 15 lb/ft.
I then ran into a snafu with the PCV tube/hose. I did not take into account the steam vent line so now I have to figure out a way on how to fix this.
I guess on the 2nd picture you can see a somewhat kink, but it is there.
At the same time I bought the heater hose to close the loop on the heater part of the water pump. Eventually I will be running a Vintage Air so for now I decided to close it. It is a 5/8" ID and 3/4" ID which fits perfectly on the heater exit and return.
You have to cut about 1/2" off the 5/8" side so it sits correctly. I added some hose clamps as well.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 02-18-2014 at 08:43 PM.
02-20-2014, 07:40 AM
#66
Took the driver side suspension, brake and such off last night. Today will do the rest and have the frame ready to drop.
I sold my Fanatec wheel, xbox 360 and other things so I could buy a new frame. Called Summit and the new frame should be arriving by the end of this week.
I sold my Fanatec wheel, xbox 360 and other things so I could buy a new frame. Called Summit and the new frame should be arriving by the end of this week.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 02-20-2014 at 07:51 AM.
03-02-2014, 07:23 AM
#67
Got the new frame, OER K44718 and managed to drop the old frame and put it away in the shed.
Here is the old frame,
Placed the frame in the garage as it was 24* outside, and with the wire wheel on the grinder I cleaned the area around the frame in order to weld it. I was amazed at how the finishing was on the frame. I mean they did it as if it was done back in those days. Frame had gaps of close to 0.25" in some areas between the plates. The welding was ok, and in certain areas they missed the spot completely.
So I fired up the welder, and closed the gaps around the frame.
Not my best welding, was still trying to find the correct setting but
I did both sides, will grind it down a bit to make it neat and then apply some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator with Chassis black, which believe it or not it matches perfectly. The paint on the frame is not the best comming from OER, not sure why, but it pealed off pretty easy and some areas got all scratched up from shipping which is bound to happen.
This plate is on the front thin crossmember as a reinforcement, but I am thinking I'm going to weld a seam as good as I can.
The thing is I will have to wait until the temp outside goes up as it is too cold still to paint, but I am thinking next week it should be ok. I hope.
Here is the old frame,
Placed the frame in the garage as it was 24* outside, and with the wire wheel on the grinder I cleaned the area around the frame in order to weld it. I was amazed at how the finishing was on the frame. I mean they did it as if it was done back in those days. Frame had gaps of close to 0.25" in some areas between the plates. The welding was ok, and in certain areas they missed the spot completely.
So I fired up the welder, and closed the gaps around the frame.
Not my best welding, was still trying to find the correct setting but
I did both sides, will grind it down a bit to make it neat and then apply some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator with Chassis black, which believe it or not it matches perfectly. The paint on the frame is not the best comming from OER, not sure why, but it pealed off pretty easy and some areas got all scratched up from shipping which is bound to happen.
This plate is on the front thin crossmember as a reinforcement, but I am thinking I'm going to weld a seam as good as I can.
The thing is I will have to wait until the temp outside goes up as it is too cold still to paint, but I am thinking next week it should be ok. I hope.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 04-11-2014 at 10:31 AM.
04-03-2014, 08:49 AM
#69
About 2 weeks ago I was typing an update on the frame, paitn, sub frame connectors etc, I was about almost done when my stupid hybrid laptop decided to crash and lost what I typed. 
I could have done it the next day, but yeah no.
After going through a full spool of 0.030" of wire and seam welding the frame, i finished painting the frame with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black.
Dragged the frame and bolted it up to the body. Then used the frame to body bolt to align it as well as the tape measure.
Here I use the tape measure to make sure it is square with the body.
Driver side
Passenger side
I then moved over to working with the sub frame connectors, Heidts RN-055. They come with no instructions, I email Heidts and the reply back was "they are pretty straight forward for installation". I was really? So why do i have a spacer that I have no clue where it goes?
Either way, I found the instructions for the 67-69 Camaro, same basic thing here. That spacer still made no sense (bottom two washers on the bottom of the above picture). I did not care much as I was going to weld the back fo the frame connectors to the rear frame rails. But first I had to fix a few things.
The Energy Suspension bushing did not fit on the connector. It was off by a hair of an inch but enough in order not to sit right.
Using my "trusted" digital caliper these were the differences
After going deaf from the air compressor filling its empty tank, I went to look for my air grinder. For the life of me I could not find it and I usually put everything back away after a days work in the garage. I guess that day I did not for unknown reasons. It must have taken me about 10 minutes to find it. It was inside the electric angle grinder under all the discs. Protip #542523521 make sure to put things away nor matter what the situation is.
I will try and update more on this tonight, I painted the connectors and bolted/welded them on. Perfect fit and contour to the floor panel as well.
I could have done it the next day, but yeah no.After going through a full spool of 0.030" of wire and seam welding the frame, i finished painting the frame with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black.
Dragged the frame and bolted it up to the body. Then used the frame to body bolt to align it as well as the tape measure.
Here I use the tape measure to make sure it is square with the body.
Driver side
Passenger side
I then moved over to working with the sub frame connectors, Heidts RN-055. They come with no instructions, I email Heidts and the reply back was "they are pretty straight forward for installation". I was really? So why do i have a spacer that I have no clue where it goes?
Either way, I found the instructions for the 67-69 Camaro, same basic thing here. That spacer still made no sense (bottom two washers on the bottom of the above picture). I did not care much as I was going to weld the back fo the frame connectors to the rear frame rails. But first I had to fix a few things.
The Energy Suspension bushing did not fit on the connector. It was off by a hair of an inch but enough in order not to sit right.
Using my "trusted" digital caliper these were the differences
After going deaf from the air compressor filling its empty tank, I went to look for my air grinder. For the life of me I could not find it and I usually put everything back away after a days work in the garage. I guess that day I did not for unknown reasons. It must have taken me about 10 minutes to find it. It was inside the electric angle grinder under all the discs. Protip #542523521 make sure to put things away nor matter what the situation is.
I will try and update more on this tonight, I painted the connectors and bolted/welded them on. Perfect fit and contour to the floor panel as well.
04-03-2014, 02:30 PM
#73
It's best practice to use solid body bushings when subframe connectors are installed. Also make sure you have the large spacer installed above the firewall bushings. See this thread for info: http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...d.php?t=136832
here are some spacers I cut from 1/2" aluminum using a hole saw to add to the solid bushings supplied by Global West. Novas of my generation (I believe from '68 to '72) need this spacer for proper frame and body alignment. Somewhere around '73 they went to a thicker rubber bushings and elminated this spacer, but if you are going to an aftermarket solid body bushing normally meant for a Camaro, you will need to add a spacer at the firewall mounts for '68-'74 Novas. You'll also need 1/2" longer bolts than what is supplied with the aftermarket bushings, unless you are reusing your originals.
Installed:
Installed:
Last edited by -TheBandit-; 04-03-2014 at 02:38 PM.
04-03-2014, 07:50 PM
#74
It's best practice to use solid body bushings when subframe connectors are installed. Also make sure you have the large spacer installed above the firewall bushings. See this thread for info: http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...d.php?t=136832
So here are the connectors installed. Here is placing the connector in order to get the front holes drilled on the frame.
Once I did both sides, I went to my private painting booth and coted the connectors with some black paint. At the same time i cleaned the rear frame rails as to where I was going to weld.
So once all done with welding and such, I covered the area with some Rust Encapsulator and then the 3M rubberized undercoat that I used for the floor.
At the same time I got my grease guns, and the different grease for the bushings and ball joints. The Red Line is for ball joints and the ES is for the polyurethane bushings.
Performance Tool Pistol Grip Grease Guns W54204
Red Line Synthetic Grease 80402
Energy Suspension Formula Five Prelubes 9-11104
The Red Line comes in its own tube, so just inserted in the gun and presto. The ES poly grease comes in a tub, so you need to transfer it to the gun.
Then mark each gun with the respected grease in order to prevent mistakes.
04-08-2014, 08:15 PM
#77
Heidts RN-055
Here are some quick pictures of the tank. IT is a very nice piece. Quality is very good, paint is outstanding, nice and thick. Tank and straps are made in Taiwan, fuel sender made in India and the pump is made in the US.
Here is a picture of the inside.
I started assembling the pump and such. Will post later when I have everything done.
Last edited by Sebtarta; 04-08-2014 at 08:22 PM.
04-08-2014, 09:35 PM
#78
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You're a bit ahead of me in the build still, but I'm getting close to having everything mocked up.
Looking good!
04-09-2014, 06:03 AM
#80
It does have a filler neck. Not pictured, sorry 
The one thing that I am very annoyed with is that they recommend on using the Permatex Bottle Indian Head Gasket Shellac compound for the gasket where now I have to go and buy the 2oz bottle. They could have supplied in a small tube this compound.
The one thing that I am very annoyed with is that they recommend on using the Permatex Bottle Indian Head Gasket Shellac compound for the gasket where now I have to go and buy the 2oz bottle. They could have supplied in a small tube this compound.