well had to work on my birthday but did manage to get myself a couple of presents anyways. Picked up my pan at the machine shop and my gas pedal arrived when i was home. Also a pic of the garage as of the other day-before the snow!- and my bracket rough draft im going to make for my alternator low mount. Hopefully my ps bracket shows up soon so i can figure that mess out...

 

had a couple buddys over tonite, dropped the modded oilpan on and got my fox body rack today so dropped that in and test fit the motor again. Dropped right in- i almost forgot that i had the pan on- and it clears perfectly with about half an inch to spare on either side. Not much got done after that though, lots of bs'ing and discussing belt brackets and such. I'll see if i can post pics soon forgot to take some....

 

Geeez alright alright make me go out in the cold and take pictures...

pan fits perfect now with the front corners cut back 2" back, 2" from each end like a triangle. Engine will move side to side about half an inch in the brackets so it could jog over to the drivers side a tad to even out the pan/frame clearance but for now it fits and im happy! Haven't painted the pan or anything i figured i would do all that when its ready to drop in the last time which will be awhile. It did get dipped at the machine shop so its clean like new. I also got the rack in- man the paint on this thing is terrible, im going to clean it off with laquer thinner and respray it cast silver or something! Still need to drill the spindles out for a larger bolt to fit the bumpsteer conversion. Need to start thinking about what headers i need- prob. a fox body header would work.

 

Hows the ground clearance with the truck pan? doing the same setup in a 68

 

bottom of the pan sits over an inch above the crossmember and the bottom of the sump sits higher than the bottom of the xmember. I could prob drop the motor an inch if needed.

got my 13'' rotors and ps reservoir today

 

Wow good to know I dont need a special pan.

 

yeah the baffles in my truck pan look pretty good- like one of the aftermarket
porsche pans i used to buy- so i trimmed the corners and it works great.

 

after researching what it would take to make my stock sn95 calipers work with my cobra rotors, decided to buy these....stock front brakes/calipers and pads are on ebay...

 

and a few goodies showed up today
stainless intake bolts- for when my intake shows up
shoulder bolts for my idler pulley project
62-63 corvette V badges to replace my mustang V 260 badges...sneaky

 

yay more parts....these calipers need stripped and repainted, not as nice as they looked in the ad. LS3 intake dropped right on- havent tried to flip it around yet- working on an alternative rear end.

 

tried to spin the intake around- would work but the oil pressure sensor? on the valley cover is preventing this. Not sure if i can get around that easily. Pulled the motor back out today and cut out the strut towers to make clearance for the headers and anything else in there. Now just need to box it back in and do some welding.....

 

You should be able to put a 90 degree elbow on that port, then maybe remote mount the sensor with an extension somehow. I know they make elbows for a lot of different sized stuff.

isn't that just a 1/8 NPT port?

 

Which headers are you using with your aje front?

 

the sensor has a boss that sticks up a couple inches out of the plate, so even with the sensor out it may not fit.

Not sure on the headers i may buy some fox body/aje headers and should be close.

 

found some metal today and made up the drivers side plate to box in my strut- all welded and smoothed. One more to go.

 

Man someone did a real cobbled up hunk of **** on a previous job with that front part. There is 1000 little jagged boxes and notches on the right side (front) of that strut tower compared to the back side.

 

yeah it got butchered- fits perfect but they must have cut it off with a hammer and chisel. It'll be welded smoothed and molded when its all done.

 

Been awhile since ive updated. Managed recently to finish up my strut towers welded them up and tonite i made it out there to do some more. Drilled a couple new holes and bolted my 95 GT mustang booster and master cylinder right into place. The brake linkage slides right onto the factory pedal but is about an inch short so some modifications will be necessary. With this in i can work on my tubular triangular support to replace the factory strut braces- more to come on that...

I also picked up some cheap Mach 1 wheels 17x8 to trial fit and see what kind of offsets/etc i need and i needed something that would clear my brakes to roll the car around on. Set the front suspension back up and slide the 13" rotor and one wheel on there and it looks pretty good- could be spaced out slightly closer to the fender and away from the strut but i CAN fit a 245 up front which was my goal for the car. Hopefully 265-275 rear tires and i'll be happy. Couple pics with the brake master bolted in and the front wheel on and jacked up some to check it out.

Still working on alternative alternator brackets and power steering pump brackets and trying to get a hundred little things figured out that need fabricated at the same time for one thing to clear another and another- before i do something else. Oh and randomly i sand blasted my cobra calipers last night since they had two spray bomb jobs on them and now i can do a decent job on them and put some new seals in.

 

got my alternator bracket the other day- instead of buying one like smart people do i decided to design my own and save some money. I figured out where i wanted the pulleys and made a template out of cardboard. This was transferred to Solidworks by my buddy Alan and sent out to a metal shop who cut out the piece from 1/4" steel. Then i got some m10 1.5 thread rod and nuts, slid the alternator and bracket on- i have a small arch shaped piece behind the alternator as well- and measured out for spacers between the block and the bracket. Once it was all bolted in place i tac welded the tubes onto the brackets. The pulleys i bought are stock pieces but new and i found some shouldered bolts online for the same application, used the same pitch tap and tapped the bracket to bolt the pulleys to it. Then i also tac welded some nuts the same size to the front of the plate for a nice thick threaded place for the pulley bolts to live and temporarily have some washers-two each- spacing the pulleys out where they need to be. I measured everything from the block out to the pulleys and they are all square, clamped a large flat plate to the pulleys and they are all sitting flush. I cut my stock truck belt down and clamped it to get an approximate size on the belt but im sure it'll take a couple before i find the right one. Next up, making a bracket to hold my ford mustang ps pump on the passenger side of the motor where the a/c used to be....

 

nice job. Get it tig welded, clean them up just a bit with a dremel to knock off the boogers and bubbles, and give them a good coat of primer and paint. Or get them powder coated for more durability. If I had the money it would be powder coating.