Yeah, post up pix and brand of these headers. Lot's of swappers on here that could use all the help they can get (yup, me).

 

bought a set of LSX stainless steel short headers from Autochrome. Tried them on tonite and they fit great- not sure they would if my strut towers werent trimmed though- but they should work perfect- $200!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301143028216?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
im sure they are not the best you can get- i guarantee that- but they seem to fit the bill for much much less than anything else i could find. Plenty of clearance for my steering shaft and crossmember and only thing they are even close to is the bellhousing on the passenger side but still enough room for the exhaust to be routed to it easily.

 

I doubt that those headers will fit with the stock towers and certainly not with the stock steering box.

I am using Hooker manifolds on my 67 Cougar and they seem to clear the towers and the stock steering pretty well.

Andrew

 

xsboost90 , Thanks for the header info, I have completely removed my shock
and spring towers so I have even more room to work with. What header would you have picked if going with long tube headers ? or is this not even an option ? just curious/
Vern

 

i think Kooks makes a header meant for this motor in an early mustang and its full length. Otherwise i would have bought a set of camaro headers or something and modified them, but this option was much easier and cheaper.

 

I didn't see anything on the Kooks website. I wish someone did make some headers for this swap!

Andrew

 

I was gonna link this, but I got to thnking that since there are those who pay to advertize here(even though I've never dealt with this company myself), I probably shouldn't just throw out their stuff...

So... check out cortex racing . com for LSx swap headers for 65 and up Mustangs.

Donno if that helps, but maybe... thing is, it's hard to know what suspension it works with other than theirs... and theirs... is expensive! Between $5500 and 8k expensive. It's on their site.

 

OUCH! Well im running AJE front and rear suspension- the COLT 65 front kit and their rear kit with fox body mounts but i'll soon have a built 9" rear end with fox brackets on it to throw in there. Feels good to get alittle done. Tonite, pulled the engine and front suspension, put the car back on the rotisserie and did some POR15 up on the inside of the flares before i commence to welding my wheel wells back up on the inside. Also still mounting that rear suspension subfrrame, so its in place ready to drill some holes Shouldnt be long before i can spray some more epoxy on there and put the bedliner spray on the bottom- once thats done i can mount the rear end in, and start putting things like brake lines and fuel systems in finally. This car may get assembled and be running and driving before i paint it- to make sure all systems are perfect, then blow it apart and paint. Different from my usual procedure but it would be nice to not be modifying things after the final paint.

 

If you have the time and energy to do all that... God bless you! I'd do that each time too, just to save scuffs and... scares... I drove a Mustang for 2-3yrs with multiple colors and caught a ration weekly from my friends. At least it ran well and one day, I got it painted!

 

Those won't work with the stock suspension with the stock rear steer. sigh...

Andrew

 

got the welder out today and made some nail clipping shaped metal for the wheel wells to fill in between the wheel tub and where i stretched the fenders in the rear. Cut up a fender from a friends crashed truck and spliced it all in. This thing better not rust anywhere. Every piece has been sanded, weld thru primed, welded in, POR15'd afterwards, seam sealed and epoxied, and then will eventually be bed linered over top and bottom. I even bought some inner panel spray and the long hose with the 360 degree nozzle and sprayed inside the frame rails and rockers etc, up in the quarters and inside the frame ties. Lots of work but hopefully it lasts a long long time when its done. Once i get some braces for the seats welded in place, i can start sanding, re-epoxy coating and bed spraying the floor and bottom of the whole car and in the truck and front wheel wells. Dont want to weld after thats sprayed on though so i have to make sure everything is ready.

Got the motor up on the stand again so i need to start looking at what mods i want to do. Pull the heads to do the valve springs and cam? I know its not necessary but i would like to check the pistons etc and have the heads cleaned at the machine shop to make them pretty- or maybe ill just scrub them down in house.

I have also decided to spray under the hood matte black as well as the dash- this way i can basically have the engine in, dash together, drive train in and running before i buy any paint, easier to touch up and easier to clean. Once the car is running and driving, i can edge it all in, mount the panels and spray the body all at once. Cant wait to get that far!

 

got the seat braces welded in friday night, so saturday morning i rolled the body into the back of the shop "booth" and masked off everything but the bottom of the car. Sanded everything with 80 grit paper and coated with some BullDog adhesion promoter. Then sprayed the bottom of the car, up to the inner strut housing with bed liner spray. Went on pretty even and easily. Im going to also do the inside of the car, trunk and inside of the quarters, doors and fenders with this stuff. Awesome, weather proof and insulates/sound deadens all in one. Now once i get the inside sprayed and under the hood sprayed in epoxy black, i can start assembling the suspension and drive train! Still havent received my 9" rear housing yet, but the axels and brakes are here. Getting antsy.

 

It really is coming along nicely. I think it's overkill too, but I know the weather can be bad and you'll never have to do it again.

 

finally got the rear end housing yesterday and it looks great. Slid in the quick time 31 spline axels and bolted the rear end in to check my wheel fitment. Had to trim the fox style mounts on the rear end alittle for the AJE rear suspension to bolt on but not bad. Bolted it all up and the wheels look perfect! Depending on the tire size i run i could prob put a small spacer to push them out slightly. Getting there!

 

no updates- working on other peoples projects- and the garage again. Any suggestions for a bumpity cam in a LY6 with vvt? Ive heard of the MAST, any other options? Prob. do springs and push rods at that time.

 

I have an ly6 going in my 83 cutlass did mast ss cam/spring combo .they sell an ly6 with this combo dynoed at 509hp with truck intake mines got a ls3 intake 42 lb injectors 17/8 long tubes should get a little more out of it. By the way I payed 1800 for my motor with 60k u stole yours. great build

 

oh im definitely gonna need that!

 

nice build man! do you remember how far off the truck intake was from fitting? and where did you end up finding an ls3 intake? people think they are made of gold or something whenever ive found one?! do you know if fuel rails interchange? thanks

 

truck intake was way too tall without a scoop or something. My intake came from ebay- like 300 i believe. Rails are totally different. Havent worked on the car but i did finish up a mustang power wheels build for my daughter.....

 

actually worked on my car alittle tonite. Pulled the upper mounts on the rear end and clearanced them to fit the brackets on the rear end -fox body style mounts on 9"- they were binding and the rear end wouldnt go all the way up. Now to get some coilovers for this thing. --Ordered some ridetech coilovers tonite.--