Engine Alignment
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
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Engine Alignment Hello All,
A question regarding alignment of an LS engine (specifically an LS2 engine in my case) What are the geometrical limits when placing an engine in a different body as in longitudinal and transverse axis, and rotation about these axes . It has had me thinking, that if I make custom engine mounts on the body, how do I know these are set up right for the engine; There must be some specs from Chevy on this? Or does it not really matter. What kind of angles do you guys accept for the drive shaft to the gearbox output shaft.
I hope this is clear.
Thanks
Jack
A question regarding alignment of an LS engine (specifically an LS2 engine in my case) What are the geometrical limits when placing an engine in a different body as in longitudinal and transverse axis, and rotation about these axes . It has had me thinking, that if I make custom engine mounts on the body, how do I know these are set up right for the engine; There must be some specs from Chevy on this? Or does it not really matter. What kind of angles do you guys accept for the drive shaft to the gearbox output shaft.
I hope this is clear.
Thanks
Jack
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2009
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The engine should sit level side-to-side and the center line should be parallel with the center line of the vehicle. It can be anywhere from level front-to-back to around 5 degrees down to the rear. That angle will depend on what the front u-joint angle needs to be to match the u-joint angle on the rear end. Those angles should be the same to eliminate vibration.
Therer should be no special requirements to an LS engine placement as compare to any other engine..
as noted above..
Those basic notes are for any and all engines. As long as the engine is within a tilting that would be optima for operations and it is Parallel with the drive tran or Rear Pinion ( or Perpendicular to the rear alxes).
as noted above..
Those basic notes are for any and all engines. As long as the engine is within a tilting that would be optima for operations and it is Parallel with the drive tran or Rear Pinion ( or Perpendicular to the rear alxes).
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All the above is correct info and just remember that the 3 degree maximum U-joint working angle suggested by U-joint manufacturers is just that, the maximium, and not the target you should be shooting for from a standpoint of maximum power transfer efficiency from the engine to the rearend. The working angle of a U-joint needs to be a mimimum of half a degree to allow the needle bearings to function properly and the less of an angle you go beyond that, the better will be the transfer efficiency. Also, depending on the transmission and trans pan combination you are planning to use (T56 and 4L80 users beware), you will be decreasing the overall ground clearance under the center of your car (the worst possible place) the steeper you go with the engine inclination angle. As others have noted, the engine will funtion fine at a 5 degree angle and beyond, but there are other things to consider that will impact the functionality and driveability of the completed vehicle.
Largely a function of U joint operating angles. So go to the source for everything you want to know:
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Downers Grove, IL
Everyone covered most of it already, it just relates to u-joint angles. Just remember that when figuring the u-joint angle both the vertical and horizontal planes come in to effect. IE: you can have 3 degrees of angle to the left but be straight in line vertically and the u-joint is within spec. But if you have 3 degrees of angle to the left and 3 degrees of angle up the u-joint will have too much angle on it.
The easiest way I have found is to try to line the motor/trans up perfectly parallel with the pinion/driveshaft (perpendicular to the axles) and then get your u-joint angle by having the offset in the vertical plane. The most accurate easy to use cost effective angle finders I have found are in digital construction levels. There are a couple that advertise as being accurate to 0.1 degree which should be plenty for this application.
The easiest way I have found is to try to line the motor/trans up perfectly parallel with the pinion/driveshaft (perpendicular to the axles) and then get your u-joint angle by having the offset in the vertical plane. The most accurate easy to use cost effective angle finders I have found are in digital construction levels. There are a couple that advertise as being accurate to 0.1 degree which should be plenty for this application.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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Everyone covered most of it already, it just relates to u-joint angles. Just remember that when figuring the u-joint angle both the vertical and horizontal planes come in to effect. IE: you can have 3 degrees of angle to the left but be straight in line vertically and the u-joint is within spec. But if you have 3 degrees of angle to the left and 3 degrees of angle up the u-joint will have too much angle on it.
The easiest way I have found is to try to line the motor/trans up perfectly parallel with the pinion/driveshaft (perpendicular to the axles) and then get your u-joint angle by having the offset in the vertical plane. The most accurate easy to use cost effective angle finders I have found are in digital construction levels. There are a couple that advertise as being accurate to 0.1 degree which should be plenty for this application.
The easiest way I have found is to try to line the motor/trans up perfectly parallel with the pinion/driveshaft (perpendicular to the axles) and then get your u-joint angle by having the offset in the vertical plane. The most accurate easy to use cost effective angle finders I have found are in digital construction levels. There are a couple that advertise as being accurate to 0.1 degree which should be plenty for this application.
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I have been using it also.. There are a few other if search in the App Store...I suggest using Torque for engine scanning....many great little apps ... And many are free !
BC
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I just use a string, heavy washer and a protractor. Gravity never lies.
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I've never heard of the Torque App bczee, I'll have to check that one out and stuff it into my phone as well!
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True statement, but protractors are normally limited to accuracy resolution of no smaller than 1 degree...and I wouldn't want to carry around a piece of string, a heavy washer and a protractor in my pocket to be able to break it out when I might need it.
That's true. I always find myself saying, man I wish I didn't carry this string, heavy washer and protractor. But then, those driveline angle checks just sneak right up on you.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thanks for all of your advice guys, I greatly appreciate it. I know BMW diesel engines have to have a certain angle on them from the front of the crankshaft to the back. So if I offer the engine and trans up and make sure the UV joint has less than say 2 degree angle on the horizontal and vertical plane that should be fine. Do any of you know if the engine mounts on an LS2 engine are located at the same vertical and horizontal distance on either side of the block?
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Torque Pro... Check it out..
BC
Teching In
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Still in the planning stages of a swap into a Toyota Land Cruiser.
Some folks have fabricated their own mounts, those that have bought engine mounts in the past for this swap, have used "universal" engine mounts. (Dirty Dingo, I think is one manufacturer ). Some of these mounting holes are slots rather than holes.
When I see install specs within .5 degree or 1-3 degrees, I wonder about slotted holes. If properly torqued, are slotted engine mounts a big concern ?
Some folks have fabricated their own mounts, those that have bought engine mounts in the past for this swap, have used "universal" engine mounts. (Dirty Dingo, I think is one manufacturer ). Some of these mounting holes are slots rather than holes.
When I see install specs within .5 degree or 1-3 degrees, I wonder about slotted holes. If properly torqued, are slotted engine mounts a big concern ?
