Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 03:29 PM
  #21  
mantycarguy's Avatar
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Check out piratejack.net website and click on tech info. Great description on differences between master cylinders and how they function.
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #22  
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The integral e-brake caliper didn't work the greatest in the 80's when they were OEM, though most of your cars are not being driven in the winter. E-brake would hangup and not retract and it was difficult to retract the piston for pad swaps at times.

If I remember from back then, the first thing you want to do once you install those calipers is gravity bleed, then adjust the e-brake either by working the lever by hand before hooking up the cable or with the e-brake lever. Don't try pumping the pedal yet. Get the piston rotated out first then finish bleeding the brakes and pump up the pedal. If you do it differently you could possibly trip the proportioning valve.

Interesting tech article from CPP on the difference in valves.

More should consider the 98-02 Camaro brakes swap. It uses a 12" rotor with the drum in hat for the e-brake. Kore3 has conversions for most cars I think. Plenty of posts about the conversion too. Currie sells an 11" kit for Ford flanged axles that can probably be adapted to most anything.

I used a Corvette 1" disc/disc master, 9" booster and disc/disc prop valve in my swap from InLineTube. 2000 Camaro brakes front and rear. Stops excellent. I haven't really worked them hard to test the biasing front/rear. 1981TA, you say you had to install an adjustable valve to cut down on the rear braking 60%?
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 11:25 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by fox12303
The integral e-brake caliper didn't work the greatest in the 80's when they were OEM, though most of your cars are not being driven in the winter. E-brake would hangup and not retract and it was difficult to retract the piston for pad swaps at times.

If I remember from back then, the first thing you want to do once you install those calipers is gravity bleed, then adjust the e-brake either by working the lever by hand before hooking up the cable or with the e-brake lever. Don't try pumping the pedal yet. Get the piston rotated out first then finish bleeding the brakes and pump up the pedal. If you do it differently you could possibly trip the proportioning valve.

Interesting tech article from CPP on the difference in valves.

More should consider the 98-02 Camaro brakes swap. It uses a 12" rotor with the drum in hat for the e-brake. Kore3 has conversions for most cars I think. Plenty of posts about the conversion too. Currie sells an 11" kit for Ford flanged axles that can probably be adapted to most anything.

I used a Corvette 1" disc/disc master, 9" booster and disc/disc prop valve in my swap from InLineTube. 2000 Camaro brakes front and rear. Stops excellent. I haven't really worked them hard to test the biasing front/rear. 1981TA, you say you had to install an adjustable valve to cut down on the rear braking 60%?
I tried a couple things first, because I'm hard headed and a cheapskate. First, for immediate relief, I put a pair of 80s G-body front calipers on the back of my car. This 30 dollar fix (plus 15 for pads and a couple zip ties for the e-brake cables) that got me through a bad day at the track dealing with the original e-brakes rears. Later, when I had time to cool down (me, not the car), I embarked on the LS1 4th gen rear brake swap.

They worked very well, but under extreme and prolonged braking, they needed to be dialed down a notch to 60% of full pressure to avoid lockup. Keep in mind this was to compensate for a dramatic weight shift to the front, and the back end getting light while beginning a turn. It's less critical for a car being hauled down from high speed while staying in a straight line, like drag racing.
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