Driveshaft Vibration Problem Cured!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 609
Likes: 6
From: jacksonville,fl
I was just wondering what there was to this 180 degree thing in the first place. Seems it should be the same either way, but wondering why it might not be. Just trying to learn here from others experience while this thread is still active.
I need to deal with an osculating type vibration that starts above 60mph, which I assume is from the 1983 olds delta 88 junkyard shaft I have between my t-56 & the3.73 rear, which the shaft was I'm sure not balanced to spin that fast.
Your balancing method sounds tempting.
I need to deal with an osculating type vibration that starts above 60mph, which I assume is from the 1983 olds delta 88 junkyard shaft I have between my t-56 & the3.73 rear, which the shaft was I'm sure not balanced to spin that fast.
Your balancing method sounds tempting.
However, if you have the patience, the zip-tie and washer or the hose clamp method is money.
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 314
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From: Land of the Mormon's although I'm not one of them
As for the driveshaft, it came from PST. They have a pretty good reputation. I even took it back to them for re-balance. However, they did confide in me that their "high speed balance" is less than 3000 RPM. And, 3000 drive-shaft RPM is about where the vibration became noticeable.
If you really want the shaft checked out, send it to Denny's; he can spin balance shafts upto 10k rpms if not higher. Most of his shafts he balances upwards of 7k.
What you did, although it works, is essentially the old-school way of balancing a driveshaft on the car.
Yea, I've run into a few shops that are like this... we "high-speed" balance... at 2500 rpms...
If you really want the shaft checked out, send it to Denny's; he can spin balance shafts upto 10k rpms if not higher. Most of his shafts he balances upwards of 7k.
What you did, although it works, is essentially the old-school way of balancing a driveshaft on the car.
If you really want the shaft checked out, send it to Denny's; he can spin balance shafts upto 10k rpms if not higher. Most of his shafts he balances upwards of 7k.
What you did, although it works, is essentially the old-school way of balancing a driveshaft on the car.
"I am certainly not ruling out the possibility that it could be a bent or out of spec pinion yoke, but I can't agree with your logic on this one. You are suggesting that the best test for determining if the problem is the driveshaft balance is to take the rebalanced drive shaft that is not vibrating back to the shop who supplied the driveshaft that was vibrating for them to determine if it is properly balanced?"
if you added wt to what you thot to be an oob shaft and it corrected the "problem", it would stand to reason, that if the issue was really the shaft/balance, then a balance test I suggested, would show the shaft to be good to go. If it's now oob, then you actually did what someone else suggested>>> Corrected an issue other than d/s balance.
if you added wt to what you thot to be an oob shaft and it corrected the "problem", it would stand to reason, that if the issue was really the shaft/balance, then a balance test I suggested, would show the shaft to be good to go. If it's now oob, then you actually did what someone else suggested>>> Corrected an issue other than d/s balance.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
im gonna try the washer thing thanks! i have had different shafts after the first by ri driveshaft broke in half at 120+ mph not fun! i finally run a aluminum and its way better but still not 100% been messing with that vibration since 2005 in my 67 gto and it gets old so i just kept away from long trips as it pisses me off because thats why i built the car!
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Verdad Gallardo This is good news for a couple reasons. 1. Yokes are cheaper than driveshafts and 2. I always thought I had one of the better driveshaft shops right here local and that may still be true.
I just have experience with this sort of thing and I went round and round with my own junk. These old cars and driveline components just weren't designed to be spun at the speeds that we are spinning them, especially when we use low gears and over drive transmissions!
The next time I redo my GTO, I will use CV joints at both the rear and the transmission. New RWD cars don't use u-joints and haven't for many years.
Andrew
Just wanted to follow up on this for those who are interested in the resolution. I replaced the pinion yoke finally while freshening up the rear end. Now I have less than 5 thousandths runout on the driveshaft. I removed the additional weights that I previously added to compensate for the old bad pinion yoke. The car is now smooth as silk and 100% vibration free.
Just wanted to follow up on this for those who are interested in the resolution. I replaced the pinion yoke finally while freshening up the rear end. Now I have less than 5 thousandths runout on the driveshaft. I removed the additional weights that I previously added to compensate for the old bad pinion yoke. The car is now smooth as silk and 100% vibration free.
People discount the pinion yoke as a possible source of vibration, but it is amazing how just a few thousands of an inch can make such a huge difference. There is a reason that NASCAR rear ends are checked for pinion run-out. G-Force transmission actually sells a special tool that mounts in place of the u-joints just for this purpose. It is only available for 1350 u-joints and is stupid expensive, but every NASCAR shop has one because those driveshafts spin at 9-10K RPM for 500 miles and if there is something "off" it will self destruct.
You can see the tool at the bottom of this page:
http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/accessories.asp
Andrew
