My 66 Impala 5.3 swap
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So making minor progress, getting the engine cleaned, etc. putting the cam in next weekend once the gasket kit gets here. Also the new set of shorty headers should be in this week.
Got some questions on throttle cable and tranny linkage for my car, if anyone has insight on that let me know please. Currently looking at some lokar items but curious if I can use something from another vehicle I could possibly get at the junkyard?
-Jacob
Got some questions on throttle cable and tranny linkage for my car, if anyone has insight on that let me know please. Currently looking at some lokar items but curious if I can use something from another vehicle I could possibly get at the junkyard?
-Jacob
#22
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I went to the junkyard and pulled out a few, thinking I could make something work. I know I got one out of a 2000's Tahoe, and I know I tried one from a 90's Silverado too. I can't remember what else I pulled one from but I had another as well. All of them ended up being too short for my Impala. I ended up buying one of those stainless steel braided ones from Ebay (I think the 36" version, which was a little too long, but 24" was too short). I modified the end so that I could fit the stock end onto it so it would clip into the truck throttlebody arm. Also had to make a simple bracket near the TB to bolt the cable to
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I think I found a pedal that will work and it's it's only $20 so I'll try it out.
Next is kick dons cable I think, which yet again I am searching around for info on currently.
Gotta love baby duty days, she sleeps and I surf the net for ls swap solutions, lol
Next is kick dons cable I think, which yet again I am searching around for info on currently.
Gotta love baby duty days, she sleeps and I surf the net for ls swap solutions, lol
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I seen the plug that matched up on the harness to the tranny but what I don't get is how does the tranny know I am flooring and to down shift without a sensor or cable?
I don't have any sensors on my pedal (it's just a stock pedal with lokar throttle cable to TB) so I guess I just don't see how the tranny will know to down shift? Maybe I'm over thinking it but it seems like more needs to be done.....
I have someone rewiring the harness for me and flashing the ECM already, should have it back in a couple weeks.
I don't have any sensors on my pedal (it's just a stock pedal with lokar throttle cable to TB) so I guess I just don't see how the tranny will know to down shift? Maybe I'm over thinking it but it seems like more needs to be done.....
I have someone rewiring the harness for me and flashing the ECM already, should have it back in a couple weeks.
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Looking for torque specs for the cam bolts, timing sprocket, timing cover, heads, valve covers and intake.....
Looked around and it all seemed to vary which concerns me since it don't know which to do. does anyone know where to find good info on this?
Looked around and it all seemed to vary which concerns me since it don't know which to do. does anyone know where to find good info on this?
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Well, I can help you out with the rails....
Some (maybe all) truck fuel rails have a regulator at the rails. If you use an LS1 intake, or any car intake, you won't want to run truck rails, because they arch way up to go over the tall truck intake. You should probably do what most of us do, and use the Corvette filter/regulator. Mount it after the fuel pump somewhere, and run the return line from there back to the tank. Run the fuel line from the filter/regulator to to the rails like you would normally
Some (maybe all) truck fuel rails have a regulator at the rails. If you use an LS1 intake, or any car intake, you won't want to run truck rails, because they arch way up to go over the tall truck intake. You should probably do what most of us do, and use the Corvette filter/regulator. Mount it after the fuel pump somewhere, and run the return line from there back to the tank. Run the fuel line from the filter/regulator to to the rails like you would normally
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That's correct, at least for every truck rail I have ever seen. But it's possible that at some point they switched over to the car style....I don't know. If you see two ends pointing rearward where fuel lines hook to, then you have the regulator. If you see only one line to hook fuel to, then you do not have the regulator.
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Update!
Finally got most of my parts, finishing cleaning and paint this weekend and moving along to reassembling the engine for a test fit.
Harness and some additional -6 line/fittings is all I'm missing to start full install.
Really not looking forward to the gas tank, just seems like no fun, lol.
Finally got most of my parts, finishing cleaning and paint this weekend and moving along to reassembling the engine for a test fit.
Harness and some additional -6 line/fittings is all I'm missing to start full install.
Really not looking forward to the gas tank, just seems like no fun, lol.
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rember to take some pics
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Ok so the local auto stores do to seem to rent a tool that with work putting my harmonic balancer back on....problem is none of the tools have a long enough bolt to thread into the crank.
Planning on seeing what I can put together at the hardware store but concerned it won't be strong enough to handle the pressure from reinstall...
Any ideas would help...thanks.
Also here is the after market cross member from impala parts (made for the 4l60e)
Planning on seeing what I can put together at the hardware store but concerned it won't be strong enough to handle the pressure from reinstall...
Any ideas would help...thanks.
Also here is the after market cross member from impala parts (made for the 4l60e)
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Ok so the local auto stores do to seem to rent a tool that with work putting my harmonic balancer back on....problem is none of the tools have a long enough bolt to thread into the crank.
Planning on seeing what I can put together at the hardware store but concerned it won't be strong enough to handle the pressure from reinstall...
Any ideas would help...thanks.
Also here is the after market cross member from impala parts (made for the 4l60e)
Planning on seeing what I can put together at the hardware store but concerned it won't be strong enough to handle the pressure from reinstall...
Any ideas would help...thanks.
Also here is the after market cross member from impala parts (made for the 4l60e)
I am pretty sure the threads on the PS pump were metric...whatever is closest to 3/8". Not sure about the other threads elsewhere...but being metric long bolts might be hard to find. At least around here they are.
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Yeah I avoided taking my power steering apart, plus it looked practically new.
Some more engine pictures. Got the TB to clear by massaging the water pump tube, cut my alt/steering bracket to help the LS6 intake sit right and for belt relocating. Also trimmed the bottom of the intake significantly to get the head cooling lines to tuck.
Some more engine pictures. Got the TB to clear by massaging the water pump tube, cut my alt/steering bracket to help the LS6 intake sit right and for belt relocating. Also trimmed the bottom of the intake significantly to get the head cooling lines to tuck.