autocomman

That intake looks sweet...thats what i cant stand bout my swap, its looks sloppy cause i used a truck harness and didnt relocate any wiring and i cant run the engine cover cause it will hit the hood, so it just looks ugly lol

Mark

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Smoothing the truck intake only takes time and effort, not a lot of money. Some extra nylon66 plastic, plastic glue, a grinder, filler, sand paper and paint.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Just for giggles, here's the intake tube that fell off and I ran over. Note the smaller filter, and the spot where I utterly failed to weld aluminum.



Then today I had dejavu when I once again ran over a tube that fell off my car! A big rock of asphalt was sitting in the middle of the road around a blind corner. Never saw it. Nailed my driver's side exhaust tip and ripped it off the car. I then ran over it. Shopping for new tips now...

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Had a pair of 45 degree mandrel bends from the x-pipe and I installed them in place of the old pipes that were ripped off. Just clamped them in place temporarily and will weld them once they are cut down so I can install new tips. They actually sealed better than the old pipes did and the car sounds better than ever. Go figure.

These tips should be here this week:
Not sure how they will look, I may be making a mistake, but if I can get everything to line up, have them square and level out the side and tucked up snug to the rocker, it should look cool.

Old tip for comparison.
Attachment 724526

txstormtrooper

Nice swap! I'll be hittin you up for tips pretty soon, i've got a 79 cutty i'm doing a 5.3/4l60 setup on.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Thanks. I'll try to answer whatever I can the best I can.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Welded the tail-pipes and tips tonight. I am still terrible at welding, but the end result is functional and the tips look better than I thought they would. Pics coming tomorrow...and maybe some video.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Pictures of new tips installed. Still have to clean up the welds, but they're installed.




And a video of start/idle/rev from driver's seat, then a walk-around and a rev from outside.

txstormtrooper

that thing sounds good! whats the website for those fiberglass bumpers?

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

I got them through a member on YellowBullet named CutlassRacer. I believe they were made by Heads Up Composites. They took a bunch of finishing to make them smooth, but they fit great and installed very quickly. https://www.facebook.com/headsupcomposites

78_elky

I'm looking to do a very similar swap on my El Camino I've got a bunch of parts but am slowly getting there. Did you use a specific set of adapter plates to get the engine mounted? and did you use a new crossmember for the 4L80? And last do you still have power steering and how is the clearance on the truck bracketry?
Thank you!
Jessica

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

I used engine-side mounts for a '70 Camaro and Edelbrock 1" set-back adapter plates because they were left over from my previous car. I got a pair of UMI solid lower mounts, bolted those into the SBC bolts in the crossmember, made some spacers from aluminum stock (about 3/4" each side) to make the Camaro mounts work. I would not recommend this.

The trans crossmember is the iceman piece. It's a single bar setup, lightweight and a little springy, but works great and is far lighter than other options. http://www.maliburacing.com/iceman/

I still have power steering. I used the stock box from the Cutlass and the pump from the truck setup. I put a smaller Ford pulley on it before I checked clearance and I don't think I needed to. It cleared with a ton of extra room. To make the power steering work, I took the pressure hose and pump-side fitting/restricter from the stock Cutlass pump and they simply bolted together. On the return side, I used the hose from the truck pump, cut the hardline from the Cutlass and flared it, then secured the truck's rubber hose to the flared tube end. Best picture I have at the moment. I can try to get a better one later.

Attachment 724246

Everything clears great. My GM Muscle Car pan hangs below the crossmember a lot, and when I lower the car, that is going have to change. So, don't do that.

78_elky

Sounds similar to my parts pile. 1" setback adapters; f-body headers; gm hot rod pan (the car is already on 2" dropped spindles) and I'm looking at the iceman or gforce crossmember. I read too many bad things about icemans parts but I've got his rear arms and they are great I never know who to believe (But your car is on the road so thats great!)
Thank you so much!

Anubis403

Which Iceman crossmember did you get? Do they offer one for your transmission or did you modify the mount?

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, I'm using 4th gen f-body pacesetters on mine too. The Iceman crossmember I got was just fine, not sure what it is that people complain about.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

They make one for a 4l80e application. They also sell the frame extension needed for early cars like mine. They sell them on ebay under the seller name pitqueen. Here is an older auction, looks like they haven't listed any for a while though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/G-Body-Malibu-Lightweight-Crossmember-and-extension-/190917864863?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c73976d9f&vxp=mtr#ht_391wt_917

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Just learned about tuning using the wideband o2 sensor's lambda output instead of AFR. Holy cow is it such a majorly better way to do things! No messing about trying to guess what stoich is for whatever fuel you might or might not be getting at the pump. Lambda is 1 for 14.68 pump gas, it's 1 for 14.12 E10, it's 1 for E85, etc. The car was doing pretty darn good before, but it's so amazing now!

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

New updates: Just passed 3,000 miles driven the other day. Still my daily driver.

Life is going better, my wife is back to work and I've hit my stride with my school program. Along with cutting huge costs out of my life, I've got a bit of money to spend...but not much! So, I got a hell of a deal for a FAST LSXrt intake manifold price matched by summit at $848 shipped! Also, a set of used 42lb marine injectors for next to nothing. I also ordered a custom cam from Martin at Tick Performance. 231/235 .635/.610 112+2. Should work better than the Howards 226/232 cam on a 115LSA and SLP 1.85 rocker combo. After selling my current cam, the SLP rockers and going back to my stock rockers, I should actually end up money ahead on this.

Then all I have left is to do front and rear coil-overs.

This is all because I'm committed to take it on the Northwest Drag Weekend this summer. More on that later.

I just hope this doesn't make me run quicker than 11.50 because I'm not sure I want to put a cage in the car since I drive my kids in it at least 3 days a week.

Oh, and my smoothed truck intake will be touched up and available for purchase!

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Had a spring break project with the car snowball just a bit. I had a hiccup getting the 42lb marine injectors and stock fuel rail to work with the LSXrt and 102mm throttle-body. Ended up ordering a Holley fuel pressure regulator, fast rails and FIC 42lb injectors. Got it all back together and.... only 30psi fuel pressure! Put 6 gallons in the tank. No change. Cranked the FPR adjustment all the way down. No change. It will fire up and idle for a while, but eventually the fuel pressure will bleed down and it dies. No leaks to be found anywhere. If I so much as breath on the throttle it stutters and dies. All roads point to a bad fuel pump, so a new one from Racetronix is on the way. I really hate dropping the tank...

Anyway, things look nice under the hood.




Can't wait to get it all straightened out.

Also, while I was waiting for parts and what-not...I decided to get the suspension done. UMI tubular lower and adjustable upper control arms in the rear. BMR lower-control arm relocation bracket. QA1 anti-hop relocation on top (not a fan of this, will probably go back to normal poly bushing in the stock location). UMI drag race sway bar. QA1 14-130 coil-over springs in the stock spring location. QA1 single-adjustable shocks in the front and rear. Speedway tubular upper control arms in front and Moog 5658 springs. Brought the nose down about an inch so far. Also removed the front sway bar and set it aside. I'll re-install it if the handling gets too spooky.





And of course, while I had the front apart I found out the both brake calipers were rusty and leaking, the pads were almost down to the rivets and one of the hoses was cracked. So I did a complete brake refit and did the wheel bearings while I was at it.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

New Racetronix pump is in the tank. I figured if I was going to go through the trouble of replacing the pump, I would get an upgrade. So, I went with their 340L/hr RXP pump. Fit right in the hanger no problem.

Sadly, I'm having an unexpected health issue and the car is going to remain an hour away from completion for a few more weeks.