MAF sensor placement
MAF sensor placement Before I go any further I realize you want some straight pipe before the MAF for the best reading. So does anyone have their MAF right in front of the TB right after a 90? I plan on putting a 6"-12" aluminum pipe right in front of the 90 so it could be placed right before the 90 and after the aluminum pipe but that would require lengthening the MAF wires. Where the MAF is in the pics is the only place I can place it without cutting and soldering wires. I am not the best at soldering so I would rather leave it where it is. Any suggestions?
TECH Resident
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 821
Likes: 4
From: Elkridge MD
I suggest soldering the wires and allowing the MAF to work as it's designed to. It will probably run if it's mounted at the TB, but it will probably be improperly communicating with the computer and sending false data.
Soldering is not hard if you do it correctly. Strip each wire and reveal about 1/2" of bare wire. Twist the bare wire so there are no loose strands. Put a heat shrink sleeve on the wire and push it up the wire far out of the way. Twist the bare wires together snugly.
Now the part that people often do wrong....
Touch the soldering iron to the BOTTOM of the combined wires. Heat the joint for a good 10 or 15 seconds, and then from the TOP, apply the solder (electrical solder, not the plumbing stuff). This will cause the solder to be sucked into the entire twisted section, making a permanent, perfect bond. Slide the heat shrink sleeve down to the joint and apply heat with a heat gun or a lighter.
If the solder flows into the joint on its own, you did it right. If the solder is just sticking to the surface of the wire, you did it wrong. Those wires are pretty thin though, and it should flow into them very easily. You can do it.
Soldering is not hard if you do it correctly. Strip each wire and reveal about 1/2" of bare wire. Twist the bare wire so there are no loose strands. Put a heat shrink sleeve on the wire and push it up the wire far out of the way. Twist the bare wires together snugly.
Now the part that people often do wrong....
Touch the soldering iron to the BOTTOM of the combined wires. Heat the joint for a good 10 or 15 seconds, and then from the TOP, apply the solder (electrical solder, not the plumbing stuff). This will cause the solder to be sucked into the entire twisted section, making a permanent, perfect bond. Slide the heat shrink sleeve down to the joint and apply heat with a heat gun or a lighter.
If the solder flows into the joint on its own, you did it right. If the solder is just sticking to the surface of the wire, you did it wrong. Those wires are pretty thin though, and it should flow into them very easily. You can do it.
Here's the best picture I have of mine. Run it right before the 90. Mine is throttle-body; sleeve; small section of 4" tube; 4" to 3.5" 90; MAF; sleeve; length of 3.5" tube; 45 degree elbow; more tube; filter.
This is what I thought you would all say. My experience with soldering usually results in the joining wires being bigger and looking bad. Ill practice first cuz it sounds like this is the best way to go about it. Thanks for the tips SuperDave, I'll keep those in mind.
Geezer, are you saying keep the MAF away from surrounding heat? Or is the turbulance of the fan the issue. The temp sensor is inside the MAF right?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using IB AutoGroup
Geezer, are you saying keep the MAF away from surrounding heat? Or is the turbulance of the fan the issue. The temp sensor is inside the MAF right?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using IB AutoGroup
Last edited by kirk69nova; Mar 3, 2014 at 02:23 PM.
