fox body LSx weight reduction
9 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2013
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To give you an idea my 93 coupe with an iron lq4 and 4l80e with a turbo and 4 inch thick intercooler and AC weighs in at 3160 with me in it and a half tank of gas (so 3,000lbs since I'm 160) This is a full interior car (minus back seat but has the back seat delete kit, even though the rear seats probably weigh what the seat delete panels weigh) Surprised me the first time I weighed it as I thought it would have been a lot more. Still has the front and rear bumpers and if I wanted to try and lose weight it seems I could easily get this under 3,000lbs with me in it still pretty easily without taking out carpet and what not.
I did that a long time ago and regret it ever since. The bedliner didnt help sound much, but does make it impossible to cut or weld if you ever need to mod it in the future... my. 02.
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True I'd never want to do that. When I replaced my carpet I added 2 full 25ft rolls of that AC insulation stuff as a sound deadener under my carpet and the carpet even had sound deadener with it I hate hearing loud noises and creaks.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 87
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From: Enid, Oklahoma
Geoff17 3K is a good weight!
I will be in the process of putting together an LS1/T56 coupe and want it to be in the 2600lb range with no driver.
I have heard removing the sound deadener and then just spraying on the rust protection paint is all that is needed.
Now it's going to get loud though.
I will be in the process of putting together an LS1/T56 coupe and want it to be in the 2600lb range with no driver.
I have heard removing the sound deadener and then just spraying on the rust protection paint is all that is needed.
Now it's going to get loud though.
9 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 271
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Geoff17 3K is a good weight!
I will be in the process of putting together an LS1/T56 coupe and want it to be in the 2600lb range with no driver.
I have heard removing the sound deadener and then just spraying on the rust protection paint is all that is needed.
Now it's going to get loud though.
I will be in the process of putting together an LS1/T56 coupe and want it to be in the 2600lb range with no driver.
I have heard removing the sound deadener and then just spraying on the rust protection paint is all that is needed.
Now it's going to get loud though.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2013
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I haven't weighed it yet. I'll probably go this weekend after I get my built 4l60e back. I've only removed the front sway bar and spare tire. everything else from factory is still there. I have a iron block 5.3 N/A with a 4l60e
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Verdad Gallardo 9 Second Club
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Shouldn't be too heavy. Forgot to mention I also have no front sway bar or spare tire since I changed over to 5 lug the 4 lug spare was no good. If everything else is factory it will probably be a little heavier than me just due to you still have a stock k member and stock a arms.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 135
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Shouldn't be too heavy. Forgot to mention I also have no front sway bar or spare tire since I changed over to 5 lug the 4 lug spare was no good. If everything else is factory it will probably be a little heavier than me just due to you still have a stock k member and stock a arms.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 87
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From: Enid, Oklahoma
Getting rid of the boat anchor they call front suspension and replacing it all with tubular will help out a lot.
I've heard guys freeing up over 100lbs by just doing that.
You can free up a ton of weight without ever having to touch the sound deadening and carpet.
Suspension, wheels, brakes, cutting all unnecessary tabs and extra metal off.
If you don't mind it, remove P/S, A/C, radio and speakers.
Running a dumped exhaust (right before axle) will free up a lot also without the extra piping.
My build will be daily/track car but I have no issue driving a beer can around for a daily.
I had an old civic hatch I gutted completely and got it just under 2000lbs was awesome.
(hypermileage car for ***** and giggles)
I've heard guys freeing up over 100lbs by just doing that.
You can free up a ton of weight without ever having to touch the sound deadening and carpet.
Suspension, wheels, brakes, cutting all unnecessary tabs and extra metal off.
If you don't mind it, remove P/S, A/C, radio and speakers.
Running a dumped exhaust (right before axle) will free up a lot also without the extra piping.
My build will be daily/track car but I have no issue driving a beer can around for a daily.
I had an old civic hatch I gutted completely and got it just under 2000lbs was awesome.
(hypermileage car for ***** and giggles)
the rear bumper impact bar weighs a lot....
i kept the back seats and added head insulation under the carpet. full interior, full tubular suspension, ls1/t56 combo, heater, no a/c, 5 lug... everything else oem in tact, weighed in at 3160 w/o me in it.
i kept the back seats and added head insulation under the carpet. full interior, full tubular suspension, ls1/t56 combo, heater, no a/c, 5 lug... everything else oem in tact, weighed in at 3160 w/o me in it.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 625
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From: Raleigh, NC
The carpet itself is very light.
Bed liner is a very bad idea as mentioned above.
The mat sound deadener stuck to the bottom of the carpet, and the asphalt sound deadener stuck to the floorpans, will cut anywhere between 20 and 50 lbs depending on how damp the mat is.
The rear seat delete kits are often as heavy as the rear seat which it replaces.
There is a large steel structure behind the dash which you could remove, it is mostly unnecessary.
If your car has air bags, and you don't plan to use them, you can remove the whole system.
Pull as much unnecessary copper wiring as possible.
There are braces in the doors which can be removed if you are not worried about side impacts or if it has a roll cage.
Replace all unnecessary metal brackets with cable ties.
Remove the dog bone vibration damper from the rear axle.
Convert to front coil overs and aftermarket front a-arms.
In the mid 1990's I had a 1990 LX hatchback which I cut down to about 3040 lbs with me in it. It had a stock 5.0 with stock iron heads, stock suspension, full interior with power windows, 10 hole wheels and no front skinnies. It started at about 3300 lbs with me in it.
My 1989 coupe (circa 2001/2002) was built to run NMRA Drag Radial and had a cage certified by NHRA to 7.99 or 7.49, I can't remember which (point: the cage was heavy). That car weighed in at about 2650 lbs with me in it. It was a pure race car though.
You have fox Mustang, it will never really be "quiet", but that is the reason it is light. The car can be made to be very light, hence it's popularity. If you want quiet and refined, the fox chassis isn't a good starting point.
Bed liner is a very bad idea as mentioned above.
The mat sound deadener stuck to the bottom of the carpet, and the asphalt sound deadener stuck to the floorpans, will cut anywhere between 20 and 50 lbs depending on how damp the mat is.
The rear seat delete kits are often as heavy as the rear seat which it replaces.
There is a large steel structure behind the dash which you could remove, it is mostly unnecessary.
If your car has air bags, and you don't plan to use them, you can remove the whole system.
Pull as much unnecessary copper wiring as possible.
There are braces in the doors which can be removed if you are not worried about side impacts or if it has a roll cage.
Replace all unnecessary metal brackets with cable ties.
Remove the dog bone vibration damper from the rear axle.
Convert to front coil overs and aftermarket front a-arms.
In the mid 1990's I had a 1990 LX hatchback which I cut down to about 3040 lbs with me in it. It had a stock 5.0 with stock iron heads, stock suspension, full interior with power windows, 10 hole wheels and no front skinnies. It started at about 3300 lbs with me in it.
My 1989 coupe (circa 2001/2002) was built to run NMRA Drag Radial and had a cage certified by NHRA to 7.99 or 7.49, I can't remember which (point: the cage was heavy). That car weighed in at about 2650 lbs with me in it. It was a pure race car though.
You have fox Mustang, it will never really be "quiet", but that is the reason it is light. The car can be made to be very light, hence it's popularity. If you want quiet and refined, the fox chassis isn't a good starting point.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
The carpet itself is very light.
Bed liner is a very bad idea as mentioned above.
The mat sound deadener stuck to the bottom of the carpet, and the asphalt sound deadener stuck to the floorpans, will cut anywhere between 20 and 50 lbs depending on how damp the mat is.
The rear seat delete kits are often as heavy as the rear seat which it replaces.
There is a large steel structure behind the dash which you could remove, it is mostly unnecessary.
If your car has air bags, and you don't plan to use them, you can remove the whole system.
Pull as much unnecessary copper wiring as possible.
There are braces in the doors which can be removed if you are not worried about side impacts or if it has a roll cage.
Replace all unnecessary metal brackets with cable ties.
Remove the dog bone vibration damper from the rear axle.
Convert to front coil overs and aftermarket front a-arms.
In the mid 1990's I had a 1990 LX hatchback which I cut down to about 3040 lbs with me in it. It had a stock 5.0 with stock iron heads, stock suspension, full interior with power windows, 10 hole wheels and no front skinnies. It started at about 3300 lbs with me in it.
My 1989 coupe (circa 2001/2002) was built to run NMRA Drag Radial and had a cage certified by NHRA to 7.99 or 7.49, I can't remember which (point: the cage was heavy). That car weighed in at about 2650 lbs with me in it. It was a pure race car though.
You have fox Mustang, it will never really be "quiet", but that is the reason it is light. The car can be made to be very light, hence it's popularity. If you want quiet and refined, the fox chassis isn't a good starting point.
Bed liner is a very bad idea as mentioned above.
The mat sound deadener stuck to the bottom of the carpet, and the asphalt sound deadener stuck to the floorpans, will cut anywhere between 20 and 50 lbs depending on how damp the mat is.
The rear seat delete kits are often as heavy as the rear seat which it replaces.
There is a large steel structure behind the dash which you could remove, it is mostly unnecessary.
If your car has air bags, and you don't plan to use them, you can remove the whole system.
Pull as much unnecessary copper wiring as possible.
There are braces in the doors which can be removed if you are not worried about side impacts or if it has a roll cage.
Replace all unnecessary metal brackets with cable ties.
Remove the dog bone vibration damper from the rear axle.
Convert to front coil overs and aftermarket front a-arms.
In the mid 1990's I had a 1990 LX hatchback which I cut down to about 3040 lbs with me in it. It had a stock 5.0 with stock iron heads, stock suspension, full interior with power windows, 10 hole wheels and no front skinnies. It started at about 3300 lbs with me in it.
My 1989 coupe (circa 2001/2002) was built to run NMRA Drag Radial and had a cage certified by NHRA to 7.99 or 7.49, I can't remember which (point: the cage was heavy). That car weighed in at about 2650 lbs with me in it. It was a pure race car though.
You have fox Mustang, it will never really be "quiet", but that is the reason it is light. The car can be made to be very light, hence it's popularity. If you want quiet and refined, the fox chassis isn't a good starting point.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,950
Likes: 0
From: Magee MS
I just picked up a 92 coupe.
My goal weight for the car is 2650lbs w/o me and run a vintage air system in car w/ a iron 402/th400 and most interior pieces. I'm gunna do glass doors, possibly glass front cap etc. I'm going to the lightest stuff I can. Planning the team z lightweight 9", minitubs, 28x10.5w slicks, w/ holley dominator EFI and a davis traction control box. Eventually I'm gunna go to an aluminum motor w/ a power glide but I already have this engine tranny combo.
My goal weight for the car is 2650lbs w/o me and run a vintage air system in car w/ a iron 402/th400 and most interior pieces. I'm gunna do glass doors, possibly glass front cap etc. I'm going to the lightest stuff I can. Planning the team z lightweight 9", minitubs, 28x10.5w slicks, w/ holley dominator EFI and a davis traction control box. Eventually I'm gunna go to an aluminum motor w/ a power glide but I already have this engine tranny combo.
9 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2013
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hatch I'm assuming? Sounds kinda heavy for ls1/t56 and no ac and with full tubular suspension.
