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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 08:49 PM
  #21  
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scroll to page 36 bottom left hand corner


http://www.xrp.com/wp-content/upload...ct-Catalog.pdf
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FrossB
Good info here! Saving this thread for later!
This

Originally Posted byv8sten
scroll to page 36 bottom left hand corner


http://www.xrp.com/wp-content/upload...ct-Catalog.pdf
Very cool
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by v8sten
scroll to page 36 bottom left hand corner


http://www.xrp.com/wp-content/upload...ct-Catalog.pdf
Those are only designed for aluminum fuel line and right in the catalog is says 50 psi max. Most people run steel lines and run 58 psi at the rail.

Andrew
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Those are only designed for aluminum fuel line and right in the catalog is says 50 psi max. Most people run steel lines and run 58 psi at the rail.

Andrew
It actually says "50 PSI MAXIMUM. CALL FOR INCREASED PRESSURE INFORMATION". I called and talked to them, for the return line, where I used it, it is good up to either 200 or 300 psi in this application, but I can't remember because it exceeded what I needed. They ask about the application because people will try to use the fitting in situations that exceed it and causes failure. I was told it's good for supply side or return side in an efi situation.
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 01:04 AM
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I have personally used these on a steel line with no issues
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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From: Little Austin
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Y'all can do what you want, but I would never use that style of fitting on a car.

Andrew
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 03:06 PM
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We make some nice slip on fittings for both the 3/8 and 5/16 line. They are a very simple design and are reusable! Both sizes end up at a -6AN outlet. No modifications to your fuel rail would be required. Slip on and go! $25 each
Attached Thumbnails hard line to AN fitting-10826a.jpg   hard line to AN fitting-20140424_131130.jpg  

Last edited by CBM Motorsports; Apr 24, 2014 at 03:59 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CBM Motorsports
We make some nice slip on fittings for both the 3/8 and 5/16 line. They are a very simple design and are reusable! Both sizes end up at a -6AN outlet. No modifications to your fuel rail would be required. Slip on and go! $25 each
These would work on the fuel filters and rails, but not to convert a straight line to AN.


Andrew
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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They will if you have a bubble flare tool! But if it is just a straight hard line, you are correct.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CBM Motorsports
They will if you have a bubble flare tool! But if it is just a straight hard line, you are correct.
I think you mean push connector type fitting. A bubble flare is used on GM metric brake fittings.



Andrew
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Old Apr 26, 2014 | 07:16 AM
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Andrew, I was wondering did you use any hard line at all on your fuel system?

I'm getting ready to redo mine changing the push on type Russell connectors. glad I saw this thread it's making rethink some of my choices.

I've been running 3/8 aluminum line and earls braided on the ends so there is flexibility for 6 yrs. with no issues.

Thanks
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Old Apr 26, 2014 | 09:59 AM
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Good thread. I bought a RIGID AN flare after seeing it recommended by a mag and a few people here. Best $ I spent. Even though I have a decent dbl 45* tool, I want a RIGID. LOL

Amazon.com: Ridgid 41162 Model 377 Flaring Tool: Automotive Amazon.com: Ridgid 41162 Model 377 Flaring Tool: Automotive
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Old Apr 26, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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Good thread. I bought a RIGID AN flare after seeing it recommended by a mag and a few people here. Best $ I spent. Even though I have a decent dbl 45* tool, I want a RIGID. LOL

Amazon.com: Ridgid 41162 Model 377 Flaring Tool: Automotive Amazon.com: Ridgid 41162 Model 377 Flaring Tool: Automotive
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Old Apr 26, 2014 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Indyjc
Andrew, I was wondering did you use any hard line at all on your fuel system?

I'm getting ready to redo mine changing the push on type Russell connectors. glad I saw this thread it's making rethink some of my choices.

I've been running 3/8 aluminum line and earls braided on the ends so there is flexibility for 6 yrs. with no issues.

Thanks
When I originally built my car I got Inline tube to bend me a line to mimic the stock line, but in 1/2" stainless. At either end of that line I have stainless compression fittings, similar to the Swaigelok fitting discussed in this thread. They have been working without issues since 2002.

For the flexible runs, I use only teflon lined braided hose as it is impervious to gasoline/ethanol. When I installed the LS engine I plumbed in a Corvette filter in the rear and I used the compression fittings again. I had an issue with one of them loosening up.

If I was to do a fresh LS install, I would use 3/8" hard line (pick your material, but I prefer stainless) along the length of the frame. For mating the hardline to flexible AN hose, I would either use the Pure Choice double flare to AN adapters or use a 37 degree flaring tool use the appropriate tube nuts.

For flex line, I would avoid any rubber hose and only use teflon lined hose.

I realize that people have done any number of things and that's fine, but in my experience what I just outlined is the most bullet proof.

Andrew
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Old Apr 26, 2014 | 02:12 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
Good thread. I bought a RIGID AN flare after seeing it recommended by a mag and a few people here. Best $ I spent. Even though I have a decent dbl 45* tool, I want a RIGID. LOL

Amazon.com: Ridgid 41162 Model 377 Flaring Tool: Automotive
Great tool! Works really well....
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 09:44 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Jimbo1367
Good thread. I bought a RIGID AN flare after seeing it recommended by a mag and a few people here. Best $ I spent. Even though I have a decent dbl 45* tool, I want a RIGID. LOL

Amazon.com: Ridgid 41162 Model 377 Flaring Tool: Automotive
Bringing this thread up from the dead, because there seems to be a lot of questions about this topic.

For my Cougar build I plan to run 3/8" NiCopp hard line along the length of the car, and the hardline will terminate with some Earl's hose and ends.

I got the Rigid 377 tool and made a quick video of how it works and the parts needed.


Hope that helps.

Andrew
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 08:27 PM
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Great post and video, just doing fuel lines now and was looking for the proper way to adapt to ss hard lines
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 11:37 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by UpstateZ28
Great post and video, just doing fuel lines now and was looking for the proper way to adapt to ss hard lines
Stainless lines are hard to work with, but it can be done. Stainless will work harden so doing double flares is really hard. Doing the 37 degree single flare with a good tool should be pretty easy.

Andrew
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 11:53 AM
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I am sure that all of these solutions will work. Just to add another option.. I Braze/Silver Solder AN Bungs on to my hard lines..

This is a sample of my Stainless Steel Fuel and Transmission Hard lines that I then use Braided and Lined hose with AN fittings to connect to the Trans and Cooler.


For Stainless Steel, Silver Solder was used, for mild steel, I braze them.

BC
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Old Apr 9, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
The compression fittings can work ok. I used them when I re-plumbed my system. The problem is that they were never designed for automotive use and can loosen with the vibrations of the automotive environment. This happened to me. The 45 degree flare to AN -6 adapter won't have that problem.

Andrew
If you install them with the proper methods using the swedgelock
"go no-go" gauges they will never loosen off. You have to secure the lines appropriately. I use them daily in oil and gas plants. Pumps that vibrate at terrible frequencies and we NEVER have to tighten them IF done properly.
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