i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

I soldered mine with little to no experience. 3 years, 15k miles, and a road trip across the country with zero electrical issues.

grifter679

iTrader: (2)

im builiding a new harness for my swap project, the last one i built back in 2010 i soldered everything, it was rock solid, but Im going for more of a factory look, I am getting my orders together for new micoropack 100w pins for the ecu, gt 150 pins and gt 280 pins since i will be using both connectors. i found some bad *** delphi lever lock connectors used on all 90s =2000s cars that i will be using for main power, and signal where i need to be able to disconnect the bundles

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Do not use this crap tool. Don't even waste your hard earned $$


You could buttcrimp but I usually dont do so with 18-22 gauge wires maybe larger gauge wire, just solder them and use about 1" length of adhesive heatshrink tubing. Only way I would butt crimp would be with quality terminals and GOOD crimp tool, and usually only a few wires like maybe a stereo head unit install not 100+ wires in a engine harness. Would be a huge bulge throughout the harness with butt connectors.

You need a micro pack crimp tool and terminals. This tool does not absolutely make GREAT crimps like factory in my opinion so I would crimp the terminal and just put a small lil dab of solder on there after the crimp. Its actually recommended with these style crimp tools from delphi to crimp and solder.





Or go all out and get the Rennsteig system, no solder needed.

$115.00 for the frame http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=893

$245.00 for the crimp die http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=895

69 Ghost

Box Chevy have you even tried this tool? You are like lots of guys on the forum that like to spew incorrect info for their own benefit. Maybe you should try it before you waste your hard earned $$$ on the more expensive tool that does the same thing. If it didn't get the job done right I wouldn't have recommended it.

Goldhawg

iTrader: (7)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1320king View Post
besides cutting and repining the connectors this is my #1 option http://www.nspa.com/multilink.html
Ive used them many many times. great success with them.
Where are you buying them?
__________________

Yes, these look interesting...where can you buy them?

71403

Buy the correct J-tool on greedBay, sell it for nearly the same on greedBay when you're done with it. In effect it's an unlimited time tool rental.

The J-tools are repair not production tooling but for 99.999999% of people doing their own harness work they will be just fine. In untrained hands they are a lot better than the ubiquitous blue-handled universal tool. The biggest problem with the blue-handle tool is the tendency for the terminal to rotate as it's crimped. They also wear quickly. The J-tools don't have that problem.

Down the road I'd rather troubleshoot a bad termination at a connector than a harness with a bazillion hidden splices.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Spew incorrect info for my own benefit? What benefit? I'm not a dealer and trying to push my own product on anyone. You sound really upset . Get off your soap box. I suggested a tool I own and personally use in the pic above, which also has the part# on it which anyone can look up and purchase through whomever they choose to.

My opinion of the tool is based upon searching/reading from others and overall general experience with other similar plyer type crimp tools. They are IMO inconsistent.

With a ratcheting crimp tool the crimp is the same everytime, no guessing if the terminal is fully crimped or not. You know the correct amount of force is applied because the tool will not release other wise. With a plyer type you don't have that. After 100+ terminals for a PCM Im sure their will be some disparity between them all when your hand starts feeling it a little and you are not applying the same amount of force for crimp #80 like you did when you started at crimp #1

Also have a read- http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...onQuality.aspx

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

FWIW, soldering is the way the GM service manual says is the preferred way to repair wires, so in a sense, soldering is good enough for GM too.

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

Not saying one is better than the other because I will do both. But what service manual says this? Just curious because I always hear people say GM currently states all wire repairs should be crimped for a splice.

Which would make sense for them to crimp because you could probably train a monkey to use a ratchet crimp tool and terminal than to correctly splice.

I always see threads on various forums with people arguing that solder is inferior because Auto Manufactures require all wiring repairs to be done with crimp splice. Which I always thought the actual reason auto makers made this decision because it came down to time and money. Just simply faster and easier for a tech to be able to crimp then time to setup everything needed to solder and then the tech to actually know how to solder at that.

V8Rumble

iTrader: (9)

That's probably a significant part of the reason for the crimp suggestion. I know that shortly out of high school, I worked as an electronics assembler working on DoD & NASA contracts, & we did a LOT of soldering - wires, components, you name it. I figure that if soldering can stand up to the rigors of combat or launching into orbit, well, then it should be able to handle just about anything that my car can dish out...

Of course, both have their place, & both are appropriate for different situations - you (obviously) wouldn't want to use solder when the connection might need to be disconnected/reconnected repeatedly, for example. Just depends on the intended application...

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

It was a GM service manual for a 98 Camaro, but I checked it again and you are correct, they do say to use splice clips, but they say to solder them after crimping, so that must have been what I was thinking as I hadn't looked at it in a long time.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

I use that tool on the harnesses I build, cannot tell the difference from my crimp and delphi's. The only bad crimps Ive had are when the terminal is loaded in the tool twisted, then its operator error, not faulty tooling

Back to the OP, solder splice is the best method. Think ahead where the harness will bend and move your joints somewhere else. My preferred joint is a modified linemans splice. Solder and shrink wrap

Since most swaps use a generic 2 1/2-3' of PCM length, you can start with a truck harness and trim 90% down, then crimp new PCM terminals on for a joint free harness

The only crimps I solder are heavy gauge (10-12ga) cable to an end ring/terminal because the crimp can be pulled free with some force. Ground/power rings, relay terminals etc. PCM/sensor terminals are just crimped. If you can pull the wire free of those smaller crimps without breaking the wire, then you didnt crimp it right

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

The butt splices I use are actually solder and heatshrink in one. These work really well. I used a heat gun with a modified end to melt the solder and shrink wrap all in one step. We used them a ton in aviation.

Haddixj

iTrader: (1)

where you you find these? looks really nice and special tools?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Ebay, amazon etc... some you crimp first, then heat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Pack-Phillips-1-1862-14-16-AWG-Crimp-Solder-Shrink-Tube-Butt-Splice-Connector-/171057011662?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item27d3cadbce&vxp=mtr



No special tools other than a good heat gun with a tip similar to this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Master-Appliance-Proheat-Heat-Gun-Heat-Shrink-Adapter-35292-/251413636755?hash=item3a896ba693&item=251413636755&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

This is why I would ask what tooling is used before I bought a harness. Would never spend top dollar on a harness built with repair tools. Atleast solder each crimp like you should with that tool.

When I started looking into crimp tools a lot of people told me to avoid that one so thats what I did.

ctd450

iTrader: (1)

What's the part number for the PCM connector terminals on an E38 PCM? I flipped my intake backwards and would like to shorten the wiring to the throttle body and MAF.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

I found these

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=296

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=295

BOXCHEV

iTrader: (3)

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=613

http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonn...spx?ItemId=941

ctd450

iTrader: (1)

Perfect thanks!