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LS swap stalling problem

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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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Default LS swap stalling problem

Just put a ls6 in a 64 buick wagon with a th350 trans. Car starts n runs for about a minute and just dies like someone shut the key off. watching it on the laptop i see the short term trim is calling for 50% more fuel. It comes up with the cam codes for high n low. I checked the wiring and tried a different cam sensor still no changes.

I checked all the basic stuff, power to coils, injectors and fuel pump. I change the tps,iac, and coils still the same

On the pcm i do not have the tach wire n the vss wires hooked up would that cause this?

Its a f-body harness with a BP automotive fuse box


hopefully this makes sense lol
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 12:06 AM
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I would double check your wiring to the cam sensor . Make sure there isn't a broken wire or something.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jborders
I would double check your wiring to the cam sensor . Make sure there isn't a broken wire or something.

I checked them. I pulled the pins out of the connectors and gave them 12v on the pin end and checked at cam sensor plug had the same voltage at the pcm and the plug end
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 07:55 AM
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Was it a new cam sensor or a used one? I had a similar problem only shut off hot and hard to start. Would only throw code when it finally shut off hot.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by oldgoat69
Was it a new cam sensor or a used one? I had a similar problem only shut off hot and hard to start. Would only throw code when it finally shut off hot.
It was new and i tried one from another car i know is good. It starts fine just shuts off after 1 minute of running.

I have HP tuners and everything looks good except short term starts going up to 50% at idle
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Silly question, but did you have VATS disabled?
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oldgoat69
Silly question, but did you have VATS disabled?
Yea VATS is set to none on the tune
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 04:22 PM
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Have you tried hot wiring the fuel pump, bypassing the PCM? How about grounds? These things can be sensitive to insufficient grounding.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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I second checking grounds . When I first got mine running I had some of the grounds on the back of the head and had some codes that went away after I moved them to the engine block.
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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by oldgoat69
Have you tried hot wiring the fuel pump, bypassing the PCM? How about grounds? These things can be sensitive to insufficient grounding.
Originally Posted by jborders
I second checking grounds . When I first got mine running I had some of the grounds on the back of the head and had some codes that went away after I moved them to the engine block.
Fuel pump says on i can here it running and i have watch the gauge it stays at 60psi.

I have the grounds on the back of the head. I had the pcm out and using the mutimeter I used the ground pins to ground the meter out when i had 12volts to it and they all grounded out. I will try n move them to the block n see if that helps.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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How about from the battery to the block? When I was having fuel pump issues I added 2 additional main grounds. I don't know if it helped or not but I have not had any additional issues since.
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Old Jun 8, 2014 | 07:26 PM
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Put a set of stock ls1 injectors in it and found a vacume leak from the intake to valley pan it runs good now. thank go thats over it was a real headache
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 11:21 AM
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Good to hear, it is usually something simple like that.
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CamaroAl
Put a set of stock ls1 injectors in it and found a vacume leak from the intake to valley pan it runs good now. thank go thats over it was a real headache
O.K. Now this brings up a question. How did you find a vacuum leak? Just lucked out or ???
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