72ChevelleSBC

Alright well I'm new to the forum I've been reading a lot over the past couple months but just decided to register, so here's where I'm at, I've got a 72 Chevelle Malibu that is getting a 5.3/4l60e from an 04 Silverado I'm planning on dbw unless someone would advise otherwise I just got out of the military and I'm an engineering student so funds are available but limited. so here's my questions

Do I need a new crossemember?
I believe the 4l60e and the th350 were both 27 spline, so I just need to shorten the driveline but can reuse it? any way around cutting it?
dirtydingo muscle car mounts any good?
which crossmember if needed is best?
I'm planning on running the truck intake for the time being so can I just keep all the accessories where they are?
Any other considerations that I should take into account?
I've read a lot about fuel tank options, what has everyone else found worked? Grand national or aftermarket?
I've read I can use a monte carlo pedal for the dbw, any other options?
best company for wiring, or should I really do it myself? I've got two weeks off until summer classes start, so let's have at it so I can make this my daily driver already!!

Tags: Ls1, Ls2, Lsx, lsx, 5.3, 6.0,chevelle, 70, 71, 72, 4l60e,

oldgoat69

You can modify your stock crossmember, if you do a search you will find lots of options.
The slip yoke will interchange, chances are you will need to have the shaft shortened 3-4 inches, your choice of mounts will dictate the exact length.
Truck intake and FEAD will work, just swap PS pulleys.
DBW is an easy way to go, and works great, use matching pedal and TAC module.
Lots of us have used 94-96 B-body tank, almost a bolt in, and quite inexpensive.
You can easily modify the harness yourself. Look at www.lt1swap.com for the complete guide. Brendan can also make the mods in your PCM to get you on the road.
I don't see any reason this can not be a daily driver.
Make sure to search for known compatible parts combinations. Some elements do not play well together.
Ask lots of questions before you spend any money.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

There a sticky with A body swaps.
There are probably an additional couple dozen not listed there in this section.
Take an afternoon off and read through...it will take an afternoon at least.
You can check out my 72 Olds 5.3 swap, it will answer lots of questions.

sowbelle

Also, depends on the exhaust you plan to use. I used the Hooker headers and mounts. They are good, but the drivers side header interfered with the brake low pressure switch. The hookers seem to have an issue on the passenger side as the collector seems to aim up a few more degrees than the drivers side. This leads to interference with the crossmember. Apparently now Hooker makes a crossmember, but I don't think for A-body yet. With th truck accessory setup and manifold you will have clearance issues with the hood also.
Read all the stickies on here to avoid mistakes. Lots of good experience here.
Good Luck with your swap

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

What oil pan are you going to use?
Are you using manifolds or headers?

72ChevelleSBC

Thanks for the responses guys, I've decided to go with the dirtydingo sliders, from what I've read I can push the engine 1 3/4 inch forward to be able to use my driveline unmodified, I was planning on going with the new version of the holley pan with hooker headers, I picked up a 96 imapala tank today so that box is checked. Thanks for the info on lt1 I'd looked at that earlier, does anyone have experience with him doing the reflash? I'm going to tackle the harness myself so there's some $$ to apply else where, I'm going to run a gps that has a speedo so not to worried about that for now.

So quick parts list I've gathered so far:

96 b-body tank
5.3/4l60e complete with harness pcm and peddle assembly from 04 silverado
dirty dingo sliders.

once I hear back about that pan with those mounts I'll pull the trigger on it with the hooker headers as they're meant to go together.

72ChevelleSBC

And as far as hood clearance I'm planning on running a 2" cowl. will that be enough clearance?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Check your dimensions. Moving the engine that far forward might cause pan/crossmember interference.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't try to move the engine so far forward. As stated you will run into pan/crossmember issues. Having your drive shaft shortened is not an expensive cost. Think I paid $120 to have mine shortened and rebalanced.

What pan are you planning on using? The stock 5.3 pan sits too low to the ground in the a body cars.

oldgoat69

Ditto on moving the engine forward, this opens a whole new can of worms. Brendan did my first PCM, quick and easy.

sowbelle

I went with F-body pan moved the engine rearward with Hooker mounts
Move the engine back or stock location going forward brings more issues than you will save in driveshaft money

72ChevelleSBC

Thanks, I went with the holley pan the 302-2 updated version, it got here today, went with the dirty dingo sliders, if anyone knows if they are worth the money feel free to chime in, I got quoted 160 for the driveline, isn't too bad, thanks for the input, I'll just have it shortened. Hooker ls swap headers any good? I've read bad things about dougs, and that the ebay ones aren't bad, trying to avoid ebay parts though. Thanks in advance. Keep the question coming, trying to cover all my bases and have it in my chevelle within the next week. (unwired of course)

72ChevelleSBC

Thanks old goat, I'll give him a shout and have em do mine as well

72ChevelleSBC

Also, what do I need to do for my 4l60e? How do I need to modify my crossmember? what mounts do I need for the tranny?

oldgoat69

Until you get the engine set into place I don't think you should worry about the trans crossmember. You will most likely end up sliding it back a bit and possibly notching to clear the rear edge of the pan. Use a basic urethane GM mount, I think the Energy Suspension part number is 3-1108 G for black, R for red. All will be subject to change based on the ultimate angle and fore-aft position. If you do a search you will find lots of examples.

72ChevelleSBC

I'm going with an L33 mated to a th350 so that I dont have to worry about the crossmember or driveshaft for now. Any one have comments on using a dbc on my set up?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Personally, I would keep the 4l60e and cut the driveshaft and move the crossmember. Pretty simple really. as for going to DBC, you will have to mod the harness and also make sure your PCM has the ability to be tuned for it, not all PCM's have IAC drivers in them.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

You'll be infinitely happier with the 4L60. All you'll probably have to do is slide the trans crossmember to a new position and drill new holes in the frame.
You can order a custom driveshaft for about $200. No point in keeping the old rusted, beat up one.
As for cable TB, if you get the harness, ecu, etc, just get the TAC and pedal with it and keep the DBW. Pretty good chance your ecu is not capable of running the IAC needed for cable TB.

oldgoat69

I also agree, go with DBW. It really is a good overall choice. I have never experienced the throttle lag some have referred to.

ijimmy

The easiet way to do these swaps is to keep as much from the original vehicle ,, original ,, and change just what is needed ,, for example the power steering pulley for your application , I would prefer a 4l60e to an older 35o turbo , for the overdrive alone ,,, that means keeping the DBW pedal also ,, less to change as far as programing ,, and you will know the sensor plugs all fit