Hybrid 69

Nice build

bdoobie69

I really wanted to do that. My brake lines route on that side which isn't a huge deal, but more so there is so much going on at the driver side with the power steering, brake booster,.... that I thought it would be better to go on the other side. Plus when the engine torque over it usually rolls to the passenger side. This way it wouldn't be tugging on the fuel line. I don't like the look of the stainless braided line so I might sheath it in black so it doesn't stand out so much.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Yes I agree there is a lot going on the driver side by the brake booster, I am pretty sure the fuel rail can be flipped 180* putting the fuel inlet on the passenger side, which would also tidy things up.

bdoobie69

Didn't even think about rotating the fuel rail. Good to know if I ever dig back into it.

Here are a few pics of how I connected up my fuel system in the engine bay. For the connection to the fuel rail I used a Swagelok 3/8" 90 degree compression fitting (SS-600-9) which connected to the fuel rail. Then I used a tube insert with a -6AN connection (SS-6-TA-1-6AN) on the end of that. At the frame rail I used a straight tube coupler (SS-600-6) to connect to the 3/8" line and another one of the AN adapters in that. I then coupled it all with a parker stainless braided teflon hose with AN fittings on each end. I think the parker hose is there 919 series.

Doug G

That spot was/is my biggest issue also....at the brake booster.
I'm carbed and used the 1" set-back mounts with the DynaTech 1 7/8" headers...the plug wire hits, so I had to "adjust" it some

bdoobie69

Here are a few shots of how I made the spark plug wires fit on the driver side. The Texas Speed headers are just like the Dynatech ones and you have to bend the boot to get it to clear. I was able to cut the original end off the wire and then crimp on a new longer end with extra parts I had laying around from an old wire set. The new ends were slightly longer and I was able to bend them at a good angle to clear everything and slide the original boot back on. I then put on heat sleeves for extra protection.

Jimbo1367

BDoobie69,
Sweet looking car dude! Keep up the great work. And ALOT more pics, lol.

thanks,
JIm

bdoobie69

Thanks! I have lots of pics, so I will post what I can.
I did all of the wiring modifications to the car and engine harness myself and am glad I did. Learned a lot on how this engine is set up. I ended up using a Cooper Bussman fuse block and power relay module that has been posted on this forum a few times. To mount this, I made a new glovebox and mounted it inside. Along with that I made the glovebox shallower and mounted the computer behind it. Using the original computer mount I can now easily remove the computer when needed.

bdoobie69

Pic of the power relay module mounted on the dash crossbar next to the ash tray and the clearance for the computer behind the glove box. Pay no attention to the mess of wires.

Euler

Where did you purchase your intake tubing? It looks VERY clean.

bdoobie69

Summit racing. It is airaid u-build-it tubing with spectre couplers.

Euler

Thanks

Death trap

Well done! hope my firebird comes out that clean!

bdoobie69

Here is what I did for the gauges. They are New Vintage USA gauges. The pods are made to accommodate these in the original dash. I got them from Summit Racing.

bdoobie69

I used the stock 4th gen radiator and fans. I welded tabs on the core support to hang it and added tabs on the bottom of the core support that can be unbolted to drop the radiator. I also notched the battery tray to be able to slide the radiator over a little more.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Dam I like that gauge setup. How much were they? I'm getting those.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

That's a pretty piece. That sender hugs the block really nice, like it was meant for it.

bdoobie69

The gauges were like 500 and the pods were 180.

bdoobie69

Here are a few pics of how I ran my power in the engine compartment.

4ga. cable down to the starter from the battery front post. 4ga. cable from the top post to a 200 amp fuse. Ground from the battery to the block and to the frame.


Next from the fuse above the battery I ran 4ga. across the the other side of the radiator support to a battery post. This provides power for the headlights/fans and is where the alternator connects.


From that post I have another 4ga. wire going to another post up by the brake booster. From there power is provided to the wiper motor and all the rest of the car.

Alwhite00

iTrader: (1)

Looks great, Get it on the road.