Toddoky

The external range selector switch was not used on the build of the Holley Monte Carlo SS project car. I will see the lab tech who did the final assembly of the car at LS Fest tomorrow and will ask him how he wired the car as far as transmission control is concerned. Edit: the Holley MCSS is running Holley EFI, which doesn't require the use of the external selector switch. The neutral safety switch function is provided by the B&M Quicksilver shifter that was used in the build.

L92 OLDS

Got it but you still need a cable and that is also within 2 inches of the driver side header collector. I cant believe your lab tech would run it long term without some type of shield. BTW, you need a neutral safety switch to run at the track. As you know, the Holley set up does not allow using the factory NSS interlock on the steering column so what did you do?
Thanks for the help.

Toddoky

Once you delete the external range switch you can swap out the long manual selector shaft im your trans case with the one from/for a TH400 transmission. You can buy that part from Sonnax or a transmission parts outfit like WIT transmission parts. Once the shorter shaft is installed, the routing of the cable will be much further away from the header like it appears in the under-car photo you posted. As I mentioned previously, the neutral safety switch on the Holley MCSS is located in the B&M Quicksilver shifter assembly in the center console.

jimmyg

All you need is b&m shift lever . It moves the cable to the inside. Loop the cable around back of tranny , then up into hole in tunnel. ( I just enlarged the factory hole in my tunnel) to shifter. Use neutral saftey, and reverse light switches included in quick silver kit. Mine has been this way for 7500 miles with no issues

L92 OLDS

And therein lies my problem. I won't cobble up my interior with an aftermarket shifter (the car is extremely clean) and I want to keep the factory Hurst Olds lightning rods which do not have an NSS. I understand the idea of changing out the selector shaft but that would only gain you an inch or so...I'll post some pics later so you can see how close the header is to the transmission and cable. Header wrap might be an option but I am still worried about heat soak.

Toddoky

Thanks for the assist Jimmyg...7500 miles should be testament enough as to survivability of that combination.

L92 OLDS

Thanks Jimmy, I am actually using a B&M shift lever kit and found that unfortunately, it moves the shift cable closer to the header than the factory bracket. I routed the cable the same as yours. Perhaps your lever is different because you bought it in a different kit? Dunno....I'll post some pics. Looks like I will have to fabricate a heat shield. The lightning rods are working perfect with the 4L80E...One more piece of the puzzle solved.

Toddoky

Ah, got it, I better understand what you're dealing with now. Yes, share some pics of what you have for others to learn from. Our Monte has a similar set-up to what jimmyg is using, so we had no issues with our install.

jimmyg

L92, I'm pretty sure the nss is on the column. Check out g body james he is using the factory column shifter with his headers . I think lokar sells a cable also that takes place of the linkage. Maybe you could utilize the factory switches On The Column?

L92 OLDS

Hi Jimmy, G bodies do use the column interlock for NSS. It is a physical key interlock so the purple crank wire is not interrupted with a switch. I've looked into the Lokar cable but they do not work on a G body due to interference between the column lever and firewall. James has an older youtube video showing this issue.

jimmyg

Well your main issue is the reverse lights . I drove my car forever without a nss switch and didn't even notice , really the only reason I put it in is they check it at the track. I would just go with the heat shield and call it a day. The exhaust is pretty free flowing so it prob won't get that hot anyway.

HighLiner

iTrader: (1)

Any news on the stainless mid length headers yet?

ccrane0044

Hey guys. I'm going to be doing a LY6 swap with a 6L90e transmission. I really like the look of these hooker headers and have heard good reviews about them. What I'm wondering is, will they work with my setup and if so which ones should I be looking at? Anyone know?

I'm more or less trying to stay on the budget side of things. The engine and trans are coming out of a 2008 Sierra 2500hd. Will I be needing to get a new intake and pan to fit this as well? Any help is appreciated. Also do the Hooker mounts move the engine forward? will I have any clearance issues with the belt drive in that case at all? This is my first gbody and first LS swap so any and all tips or advice is welcome. Although I'd rather not be told to ditch the 6 speed. Many people have mentioned this but I'm stubborn.

Toddoky

The Hooker headers will be compatible with your 6L90 transmission, but you'll have to remove and rebuild the tunnel sheet metal to get your engine and transmission in your car at the same inclination angle that is designed into the Hooker G-body system mounting components. The pan of that transmission will also hang down very far under the car and create ground clearance issues for you which will be exacerbated by lowering your car. You may get by with using a stretched/modified 6L80 pan off of a Pontiac G8. The Hooker engine brackets move the engine/trans mating plane forward 1/4" from the stock SB Chevy location and allows you to use the truck accessory drive set-up

ccrane0044

Thanks Toddoky! I think I forgot to mention that this is for my '85 Cutlass, I'm assuming that would be good information to know. That's a lot of good info. I'm already aware of the sheet metal fab needed. Not to concerned with this since I had to do the same thing with my C10 to clear the transmission and driveshaft in that, therefore I'm pretty comfortable with that part.

The thing I'm trying to figure out now is parts with part numbers that people know will work so I don't end up wasting money on buying parts twice (HATE THAT). So far I believe I'm looking at the stand alone wiring harness, Engine mounts (not sure which part number, If you know a part number that would work best that would be appreciated.) Headers or manifold, and possibly an intake but would like to keep the truck intake if possible to save some money. I will be making my own crossmember.


As for headers... the hooker ones are a bit out of budget for now, do you know of any other options that may work? perhaps I could use the truck manifolds for now until I save up some more money to buy some nice headers?

I would like to get the hooker engine mounts, just don't know which to choose since there seems to be a couple options. Am I correct is saying it would be part# 12643HKR?

For the oil pan I am looking at the CTS-V pan. I've heard this pan work well with the swap and offers good ground clearance. With that said I will also have a clearance issue with the trans pan so might opt for the muscle car pan to save some money since I'm sure it wouldn't hang any lower than the trans pan. I don't plan on dropping the car at all so as long as its not bad at stock height I'm not to concerned about it.

Also is there any other parts you think I will need to do that swap? Do you know if any modifications for the steering will be necessary?

Toddoky

Yes, the Hooker 12643HKR engine brackets would be the ones you would need. Due to the specific installed geometry that is provided by their design, none of the factory GM pans are installable with them; most of them are too tall at their front halves and the F-body pan, while low enough at the front, has a sump that is too long to be installable. The entire Hooker G-body swap system is designed around the specific geometry of the Holley 302-2 oil pan, and it's the only one that will fit with the Hooker engine brackets that I'm aware of. As far as exhaust manifolds are concerned, I've only personally validated the fitment of the Hooker cast iron manifolds, so I won't be of any help to you in figuring out which other examples may fit.

ccrane0044

O kk. In that case I might have to pass on the hooker mounts since that will bring me over budget with the other parts needed. Back to square one with the mounts I guess lol.

Toddoky

Be careful using engine brackets that will allow you to use the muscle car pan as they will put the height of the engine up so high that the truck alternator will not clear the underside of the hood and will also make achieving desirable U-joint working angles highly improbable.

ccrane0044

That's why I'm tempted to just wait and spend the extra money and buy the full kit. It's out of my budget for now and the fact I will need to modify the trans crossmember anyways but its hard to justify.

Do you know if I will be able to clear the truck intake under the hood using the Hooker kit?

Toddoky

I don't recall if the truck intake will clear the hood or not with the Hooker engine brackets, but I'm fairly certain you'll find the answer to that question within the pages of this thread.