Can a stock Fox Body cluster be ran with an LS??
12-03-2014, 12:45 PM
#24
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Another question 
. Are the Mustang oil pressure, coolant temp, volt meter and tach signal all part of the mustang engine or body harness? I wanted to remove the engine harness like everyone else does by unplugging it from the body harness but I didn't know if it will effect the way the gauges will need to be wired. I guess Im not sure if the sensors for the gauges are part of the engine harness or the body harness??
. Are the Mustang oil pressure, coolant temp, volt meter and tach signal all part of the mustang engine or body harness? I wanted to remove the engine harness like everyone else does by unplugging it from the body harness but I didn't know if it will effect the way the gauges will need to be wired. I guess Im not sure if the sensors for the gauges are part of the engine harness or the body harness?? Last edited by NV Z 28; 12-03-2014 at 09:56 PM.
12-13-2014, 05:14 PM
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Hey guys. Where can I get a wiring diagram of the fox body harness.
Im am trying to figure out what wires I need to extend from the body harness to get my stock cluster to work. What color wires are for the oil pressure sending unit, coolant temp, and volt meter?? If anyone can help I would appreciate it.
Im am trying to figure out what wires I need to extend from the body harness to get my stock cluster to work. What color wires are for the oil pressure sending unit, coolant temp, and volt meter?? If anyone can help I would appreciate it.
12-14-2014, 08:50 AM
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Actually... AutoZone's website has engine and body wiring schematics. I used them to determine gage hookup in my Ranger. They were accurate.
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...00c15280069677
http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/r...00c15280069677
12-14-2014, 09:52 AM
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Just to double check I am doing this correctly, I need to use the harness with the 2 big plugs that is across the firewall for my gauges, right?
Sorry for all the stupid questions. Lol
Sorry for all the stupid questions. Lol
12-14-2014, 01:32 PM
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Your oil pressure and temp will be part of the engine harness(these two are all you need unless you will be running the Ford alternator too). Fuel pump relay ground connects at the pcm. So you will have to remove the ground out of the pcm connector and hook to a chassis ground(crimp on an eyelet and connect to body). Fuel pump hot wire(Ford coil side) will have to be removed from relay(under drivers seat IIRC). Fuel pump wire from PCM(GM) will now be connected to the relay(coil side). This bypasses the inertia switch and fuel pump wiring intact from the relay back.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 12-14-2014 at 01:44 PM.
12-14-2014, 01:43 PM
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Your oil pressure and temp will be part of the engine harness(these two are all you need unless you will be running the Ford alternator too). Fuel pump relay ground connects at the pcm. So you will have to remove the ground out of the pcm connector and hook to a chassis ground(crimp on an eyelet and connect to body). Fuel pump hot wire(Ford) will have to be removed from relay(under drivers seat IIRC). Fuel pump wire from PCM(GM) will now be connected to the relay. This leaves the inertia switch and fuel pump wiring intact from the relay back.
12-14-2014, 01:53 PM
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You can extend the wires. It's easier sometimes to use the connectors and unpin the rest of the Ford stuff. I had a 2.3 so there were less wires to unpin. Either way works. Your decision will be how easy it will be to service the engine down the road and which is neater install.
01-07-2024, 08:51 PM
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Of course. The only big hurdle is the speedo depending on what transmission to use. I would suggest an VSS to cable conversion if i had to do it again.
The fuel gauge is not part of the engine harness so no worries there.
Tach you must use a 4 cylinder tach (at least back when i did my swap 8 or so years ago)
Temp gauge - just use the factory ford sender. I drilled and tapped my water pump housing to screw it in.
Oil pressure. Same as temp. I used the plate on the left rear of the engine.
The fuel gauge is not part of the engine harness so no worries there.
Tach you must use a 4 cylinder tach (at least back when i did my swap 8 or so years ago)
Temp gauge - just use the factory ford sender. I drilled and tapped my water pump housing to screw it in.
Oil pressure. Same as temp. I used the plate on the left rear of the engine.
can I ask a stupid question? I’m in the process of doing a 302 carb swap on a 1987 lx that was a 4banger I was use the stock gauges for oil, coolant temp and rpm. This will be a a/c car. I’m running a 6al box with a hei distributor am I ok with cutting the wires I’m not using and still have everything working, and how would I go about getting the rpm’s wired up so they would work with my setup since I won’t be using the mounted coil?
