LS1 vs LS2 and LS2 vs LS3 - perceived difference in performance?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 70
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Hi, all!
Thanks for all the good input. I apologize for not providing all the information in my initial post.
The reason for the aluminum block is because of F/R weight balance. I have the engine swapped in an E30 BMW (Track day- / HPDE-car) and can not add any more weight up front.
FI is probably not a good idea either (because of the added weight).
Thanks for all the good input. I apologize for not providing all the information in my initial post.
The reason for the aluminum block is because of F/R weight balance. I have the engine swapped in an E30 BMW (Track day- / HPDE-car) and can not add any more weight up front.
FI is probably not a good idea either (because of the added weight).
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
BUT, as a general rule, if you are able to get your hands on a 6.0L short-block, you can add L92 heads, which will give you probably 90% of the performance found in the late-model engines... (Of course the L92 heads require a different intake manifold, so be aware of that before making the change...)
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From the rest of your thread, it sounds as though you are probably not located in N. America (hence the high costs of the engines you're referencing). It might be worthwhile to reference your location - no sense in us recommending an LQ4/LQ9 if they're not available in your location...
BUT, as a general rule, if you are able to get your hands on a 6.0L short-block, you can add L92 heads, which will give you probably 90% of the performance found in the late-model engines... (Of course the L92 heads require a different intake manifold, so be aware of that before making the change...)
Good luck!
BUT, as a general rule, if you are able to get your hands on a 6.0L short-block, you can add L92 heads, which will give you probably 90% of the performance found in the late-model engines... (Of course the L92 heads require a different intake manifold, so be aware of that before making the change...)
Good luck!
I live in Norway so I have to import all the good stuff from USA. With the added shipping and taxes it sadly gets very expensive.
Given your needs, I would lean toward the ls2.
Is this a track-only car? Would you have emissions requirements? My complete 475 crank HP NA LS1 cost as follows:
AI heads/cam/springs/Ls7 lifter: 2200
Block: 300
Crank/rod/piston/rings machine and balance: 550
HV Oil pump and new bearings: 250
Pushrods and aftermarket timing cover (to clear pump): 300
Intake, carb, fliudampr: 1000
500 crank hp is quite bit for a track car, btw. Unless you've worked your way up to that and are a seasoned track guy, I would think most of the power that puts you above 1:12 hp-to-weight won't help much and may mask shortcomings in driving skill or smoothness. I will have my hands full with my car's current config (420whp/2950 curb weight), but I share the car with a dude who has 15 years racing under his belt. He ran circles around everyone when the car had just 325 whp this spring and would essentially be my instructor.
Unless you've got serious wheel time already, perhaps going with a stock ls2 or ls3 build and investing the extra in chassis mods will give you the best go for your dough. An l33 engine can be bored out to ls1 size, incidentally. The l33 appears to provide the base engine for a lot of machine shop crate engines, probably due to lower cost and better general condition when compared to a "real" ls1 core.
Check out texas speed (a sponsor here) when you get a chance. You can compare the various ls engines/costs side by side there.
Is this a track-only car? Would you have emissions requirements? My complete 475 crank HP NA LS1 cost as follows:
AI heads/cam/springs/Ls7 lifter: 2200
Block: 300
Crank/rod/piston/rings machine and balance: 550
HV Oil pump and new bearings: 250
Pushrods and aftermarket timing cover (to clear pump): 300
Intake, carb, fliudampr: 1000
500 crank hp is quite bit for a track car, btw. Unless you've worked your way up to that and are a seasoned track guy, I would think most of the power that puts you above 1:12 hp-to-weight won't help much and may mask shortcomings in driving skill or smoothness. I will have my hands full with my car's current config (420whp/2950 curb weight), but I share the car with a dude who has 15 years racing under his belt. He ran circles around everyone when the car had just 325 whp this spring and would essentially be my instructor.
Unless you've got serious wheel time already, perhaps going with a stock ls2 or ls3 build and investing the extra in chassis mods will give you the best go for your dough. An l33 engine can be bored out to ls1 size, incidentally. The l33 appears to provide the base engine for a lot of machine shop crate engines, probably due to lower cost and better general condition when compared to a "real" ls1 core.
Check out texas speed (a sponsor here) when you get a chance. You can compare the various ls engines/costs side by side there.
Last edited by 1981TA; Aug 24, 2014 at 01:09 PM.
