72' Chevelle with stock 5.3 and 4L60e. Going to try the stock chevelle radiator which has trans cooler connections. Anyone running something similar and using the stock radiator without an added trans cooler?

Thanks
Bob

 

If the radiator was working properly in it's prior application I see no reason to expect problems.

If you add a stall or start racing, I would add an external cooler to supplement the one in the radiator.

 

Gofast.... thoughts on running an external cooler only? No radiator?

 

I had been running both. Though the Radiator and then into the External Cooler. Engine Temp was running a bit, I re-routed the Radiator cooler out and ran the External one only. Engine Temp dropped 10-15 degree.

Not sure what the trans fluid temp was as I don't have a gauge on the line yet.

Just something to consider.

BC

 

I run only Derale stacked plate coolers. Trans temps while pulling a heavy 4wd never tops 175 degrees. Offroading in past rigs, same result.
I use the radiator as a radiator only, to gain a little cooling for the motor.

Martin

 

I had an external cooler on my 33 ****** and it did just fine. The cooler was mounted horizontal and about 2" off the floor just in front of the left rear wheel (don't forget, this is a 33 ******...no room). I was concerned so I put a gauge on the trans pan and much to my supprise it would take longer to heat up to 150 degrees than if the fluid was pre-heated by the radiator. Several times in very hot weather, stuck in traffic it went to 200 degrees but cooled quickly at speed in lockup. Don't forget the trans has steel and aluminum parts that must play together and designed to be happy at 150 degrees. Too much cooling can be as bad as overheating.

 

Thanks for all the information. I guess I should try using an external trans cooler and let the radiator cool the motor.

 

I've seen that done and it works well, BUT you need a good quality plate and fin style cooler. The cheap parts store "tube through some fins" style are a waste of time and won't do at all, they don't have the capacity.

If you use a good external cooler and bypass the radiator completely the next problem you'll have is warm up time - as in it will take forever for the transmission to come up to temp.

I nab plate / fin coolers from full size trucks with tow packages or a smattering of front wheel drive vehicles depending on what I'm working on and the space I have available. I simply cut the lines about a foot back and unbolt the cooler. I'm usually out the door for $20.


For anyone who didn't know, we can actually monitor the transmission temp in our cars through the PCM with a scanner that does live data (hand held or PC based).

 

Don't if this helps you, but the GP GXP has a factory trans temp display and I've seen it run 185 to 225, depending on level of abuse. Normal level seems to be 195.

 

Ditto on the too much cooling, lots of people dont think bout that one. I always run em trans, external, radiator and back. That way no matter how much the external cools it off it has the radiator to help regulate temp. Especially in lock up, when you have was less heat being created. If you do go external only one with a fan on a temp switch is a good idea, but really unless you have no options for line routing, try to keep the radiator hooked up